( sigh )

I have had a murderous time trying to find someone to tuckpoint a small
section of our chimney. It is a small section, but near the very top of the
structure (approx 25 ft). Throughout the year, no one would return my calls.
One guy who did insisted on tearing the chimney down to the roofline and
reconstructing from there.

My wife is at the point where she wants me to do it myself with the
neighbor's ladder truck, and a caulking gun loaded with a tube of mortar
repair. Despite my parasailing adventure when we vacationed in Mex last
year, the idea of doing this makes me VERY nervous. Plus I am dubious as to
the virtues of Mortar-in-a-Tube and what will keep it from just falling
through the joint.

What I want to throw out here is, when should I start to worry about the
chimney's structural integrity? I am concerned with a small section of the
south side about 1 foot by three feet, with several joints open but most of
them looking sound. I would rather try and wait until spring when I might be
able to get a pro out here.

BTW, the fireplace involved is used only with a "gas log" and that is very
infrequently. No wood fires.

Thanks

The bricks you see on the outside are not the pieces that keep the
fire and smoke in control. The fire and smoke are controlled by
flue tile or other actual chimney liner. The bricks are primarily
decorative, but if enough moisture comes through the brick veneer,
you could develop a ceiling stain or other interior leak. I tell
you these things so you don't worry about it so much.

:You can take down the bricks and relay them yourself. You can
wait for a better cycle to hire the work done. You can hire or
perform having the bricks capped with Hardie siding, stucco, or
other suitable material. Have a sheet metal or copper chimney cap
made to take the place of the mortar cap, with or without spark
arrester, bird screen. Were it mine, I would leave the bricks,
cap with Hardie, and install a cap. It sounds as if the original
brick work is good enough shape to shed water so the step flashing
is still in good shape - keep the siding well up off the roof and
don't add fasteners into the flashing.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"M&K" wrote in message
. ..
( sigh )

I have had a murderous time trying to find someone to tuckpoint
a small
section of our chimney. It is a small section, but near the very
top of the
structure (approx 25 ft). Throughout the year, no one would
return my calls.
One guy who did insisted on tearing the chimney down to the
roofline and
reconstructing from there.

My wife is at the point where she wants me to do it myself with
the
neighbor's ladder truck, and a caulking gun loaded with a tube
of mortar
repair. Despite my parasailing adventure when we vacationed in
Mex last
year, the idea of doing this makes me VERY nervous. Plus I am
dubious as to
the virtues of Mortar-in-a-Tube and what will keep it from just
falling
through the joint.

What I want to throw out here is, when should I start to worry
about the
chimney's structural integrity? I am concerned with a small
section of the
south side about 1 foot by three feet, with several joints open
but most of
them looking sound. I would rather try and wait until spring
when I might be
able to get a pro out here.

BTW, the fireplace involved is used only with a "gas log" and
that is very
infrequently. No wood fires.

Thanks

Dont use caulk it will seal in moisture , freezing water will cause
damage. Keep looking it is best to have it tuckpointed before winters
freeze and thaw cycles.