I'm in the process of tearing up the kitchen and just mapped out the
current wiring. I'm doing a complete remodel and am moving just about
everything around. I currently have the following circuits and plans:

Circuit 1: 240V 30A (currently not used - gas range)

Plan to move outlet behind new range location just in case it is needed
in the future. Will splice in basement so no buried connections.

Circuit 2: 120V 20A
Currently: Refrigerator, gas range, range hood.
Plan moves gas stove to other wall, so will probably just be the
refrigerator and a counter outlet. Will add GFCI even though not
directly by water (about 9' across from sink)

Circuit 3: 120V 20A
Currently: Dishwasher, two counter outlets, switched light over sink,
two living room outlets.
Plan to remove the dishwasher and add GFCI and a couple more outlets on
the counter for convienience. Will also have micro/hood, gas range and
will probably tap in some additional lighting (not more than 250 Watts
or so).

Circuit 4: 120V 20A
Currently: Disposal on switched outlet.
Will move to a switched outlet at the new sink location.

I will add a new circuit for the dishwasher. Do I need to make this a
20 amp or is 15 sufficient? Will put in an outlet behind the
dishwasher location for convenience.

I was also thinking it might be good to extend a couple outlets off
circuit 2 to the new counter outlets. That way I won't trip the
breaker if someone decides to run the microwave, can opener, blender,
toaster, and whatever other appliance at the same time.

I've got 100Amp service in a new panel that was just installed this
summer when they found the old one full of water while wiring the new
AC.

All appliance will be brand new, so that should cut down some energy
use there too.

Anything I am missing?

wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm in the process of tearing up the kitchen and just mapped out the
current wiring. I'm doing a complete remodel and am moving just about
everything around. I currently have the following circuits and plans:

Circuit 1: 240V 30A (currently not used - gas range)

Plan to move outlet behind new range location just in case it is needed
in the future. Will splice in basement so no buried connections.
New appliances are 4 wire, neutral and ground. Might want to consider


Circuit 2: 120V 20A
Currently: Refrigerator, gas range, range hood.
Plan moves gas stove to other wall, so will probably just be the
refrigerator and a counter outlet. Will add GFCI even though not
directly by water (about 9' across from sink)
Nec requires 2 counter outlet circuits usually GFCI now with out any other
loads.

Range hood good place to plant a 20 amp circuit for the over the range micro
wave. That I will install.




Circuit 3: 120V 20A
Currently: Dishwasher, two counter outlets, switched light over sink,
two living room outlets.
Plan to remove the dishwasher and add GFCI and a couple more outlets on
the counter for convienience. Will also have micro/hood, gas range and
will probably tap in some additional lighting (not more than 250 Watts
or so).
See above about the counter outlets.
Diswasher is a fixed appliance seperate circuit.
Lighting is seperate circuit.



Circuit 4: 120V 20A
Currently: Disposal on switched outlet.
Will move to a switched outlet at the new sink location.
Another fix appliance they used to let us share the disposal with the
dishwasher, not any more.


I will add a new circuit for the dishwasher. Do I need to make this a
20 amp or is 15 sufficient? Will put in an outlet behind the
dishwasher location for convenience.
20 amp appliance circuit



I was also thinking it might be good to extend a couple outlets off
circuit 2 to the new counter outlets. That way I won't trip the
breaker if someone decides to run the microwave, can opener, blender,
toaster, and whatever other appliance at the same time.

I like to stagger outlet circuits. That way if someone plugs in a load in
this one the next outlet is another circuit so that they can contiune to do
their cooking


I've got 100Amp service in a new panel that was just installed this
summer when they found the old one full of water while wiring the new
AC.

All appliance will be brand new, so that should cut down some energy
use there too.

Anything I am missing?


Remodels can be anything from current codes to god anything goes.
Comments in the body

Suggest you check with the authorities to see what you need to do locally.
Jurisitiction folks across the country have differing ideas of what is
required.
Lots of circuits in a kitchen is always a good thing. Where I live all
kitchen outlets are now GFCI even if not next to water. Just like all new
bedrooms are arc-faults, now.

Be certain that the new circuits meet all local codes.
Where I live, separate circuits have to serve the fridge, exhaust fan, and
backsplash receptacles. As a matter of relative ease of wiring once the
walls were torn up, we also put in separate circuits for dishwasher, each of
2 ovens, toaster plugin, toaster-oven plugin, disposal, and instant hot
water dispenser. Ended up with 11 circuits, in all. Basically ran a 50amp
line to what is now the kitchen subpanel, on the outside of the house.
While we were at it, we ran two spare circuits from this subpanel for two
bathrooms, and ran the romex into those rooms, which may be re-done some
time in the future. At some point you might fret about not having added
enough capacity in the kitchen area. Very unlikely that you would ever say "
I just put in too many circuits!"

Circuit 2: 120V 20A
Currently: Refrigerator, gas range, range hood.
Plan moves gas stove to other wall, so will probably just be the
refrigerator and a counter outlet. Will add GFCI even though not
directly by water (about 9' across from sink)

The refrig should not be on a GFIC as it could trip and ruin the food. Not
recommended by code.
It should be on its own circuit.

Current NEC requires minimum of two 20 amp circuits to feed kitchen outlets.
No lighting or exhaust fan can be on these circuits and all counter outlets
must be GFCI protected. All counter spaces of 12 inches or more require and
outlet and no point along the counter space can be farther than 24 inches
from an outlet. Appliances like a built in microwave require a dedicated
circuit. Your 30 amp 240volt circuit would be two small for an electric
range, but possibly large enough for a combination gas/electric model, and
must be four wire by current code




wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm in the process of tearing up the kitchen and just mapped out the
current wiring. I'm doing a complete remodel and am moving just about
everything around. I currently have the following circuits and plans:

Circuit 1: 240V 30A (currently not used - gas range)

Plan to move outlet behind new range location just in case it is needed
in the future. Will splice in basement so no buried connections.

Circuit 2: 120V 20A
Currently: Refrigerator, gas range, range hood.
Plan moves gas stove to other wall, so will probably just be the
refrigerator and a counter outlet. Will add GFCI even though not
directly by water (about 9' across from sink)

Circuit 3: 120V 20A
Currently: Dishwasher, two counter outlets, switched light over sink,
two living room outlets.
Plan to remove the dishwasher and add GFCI and a couple more outlets on
the counter for convienience. Will also have micro/hood, gas range and
will probably tap in some additional lighting (not more than 250 Watts
or so).

Circuit 4: 120V 20A
Currently: Disposal on switched outlet.
Will move to a switched outlet at the new sink location.

I will add a new circuit for the dishwasher. Do I need to make this a
20 amp or is 15 sufficient? Will put in an outlet behind the
dishwasher location for convenience.

I was also thinking it might be good to extend a couple outlets off
circuit 2 to the new counter outlets. That way I won't trip the
breaker if someone decides to run the microwave, can opener, blender,
toaster, and whatever other appliance at the same time.

I've got 100Amp service in a new panel that was just installed this
summer when they found the old one full of water while wiring the new
AC.

All appliance will be brand new, so that should cut down some energy
use there too.

Anything I am missing?

Ralph Mowery wrote:
Circuit 2: 120V 20A
Currently: Refrigerator, gas range, range hood.
Plan moves gas stove to other wall, so will probably just be the
refrigerator and a counter outlet. Will add GFCI even though not
directly by water (about 9' across from sink)

The refrig should not be on a GFIC as it could trip and ruin the
food. Not recommended by code.
It should be on its own circuit.

Personally I like the Frig to share a circuit with something that I
would notice quickly if it were out, like an overhead light.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message
nk.net...
Circuit 2: 120V 20A
Currently: Refrigerator, gas range, range hood.
Plan moves gas stove to other wall, so will probably just be the
refrigerator and a counter outlet. Will add GFCI even though not
directly by water (about 9' across from sink)

The refrig should not be on a GFIC as it could trip and ruin the food.
Not
recommended by code.
It should be on its own circuit.


Defrost cycle trips GFICs...my garage fridge did exactly that...had to take
the fridge off the GFIC

I guess I will be opening more walls than initially planned. New plan:

Add circuit for microwave. (Can gas range share this, or should that
be on the counter circuit?)

Add circuit for dishwasher.

Add a second countertop circuit - stagger outlets with the existing
one.

Remove the extra outlet on the fridge circuit and add it to a counter
circuit.

Move the disposal switch/outlet.

All lighting on the existing lighting circuit.

I'll probably abandon the 220V range circuit for now. It is easy to
access through the basement if it is ever needed in the future.

While that logic makes sense to me, the NEC doesn't allow kitchen outlet
circuits to be shared with lighting or even outlets in any other room except
a dining room


"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
Ralph Mowery wrote:
Circuit 2: 120V 20A
Currently: Refrigerator, gas range, range hood.
Plan moves gas stove to other wall, so will probably just be the
refrigerator and a counter outlet. Will add GFCI even though not
directly by water (about 9' across from sink)

The refrig should not be on a GFIC as it could trip and ruin the
food. Not recommended by code.
It should be on its own circuit.

Personally I like the Frig to share a circuit with something that I
would notice quickly if it were out, like an overhead light.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

In addition to all the comments about what can and can't be shared and how
much current etc. The one the inspector is most likely to get you with is
the 2 foot/4 foot rule.

Code requires that an outlet be positioned no more than 2 feet from any spot
on the counter and no more than 4 feet from the next outlet. They can be
closer. For rooms, they use the 3 foot/6 foot rule.




"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
Current NEC requires minimum of two 20 amp circuits to feed kitchen
outlets. No lighting or exhaust fan can be on these circuits and all
counter outlets must be GFCI protected. All counter spaces of 12 inches or
more require and outlet and no point along the counter space can be
farther than 24 inches from an outlet. Appliances like a built in
microwave require a dedicated circuit. Your 30 amp 240volt circuit would
be two small for an electric range, but possibly large enough for a
combination gas/electric model, and must be four wire by current code




wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm in the process of tearing up the kitchen and just mapped out the
current wiring. I'm doing a complete remodel and am moving just about
everything around. I currently have the following circuits and plans:

Circuit 1: 240V 30A (currently not used - gas range)

Plan to move outlet behind new range location just in case it is needed
in the future. Will splice in basement so no buried connections.

Circuit 2: 120V 20A
Currently: Refrigerator, gas range, range hood.
Plan moves gas stove to other wall, so will probably just be the
refrigerator and a counter outlet. Will add GFCI even though not
directly by water (about 9' across from sink)

Circuit 3: 120V 20A
Currently: Dishwasher, two counter outlets, switched light over sink,
two living room outlets.
Plan to remove the dishwasher and add GFCI and a couple more outlets on
the counter for convienience. Will also have micro/hood, gas range and
will probably tap in some additional lighting (not more than 250 Watts
or so).

Circuit 4: 120V 20A
Currently: Disposal on switched outlet.
Will move to a switched outlet at the new sink location.

I will add a new circuit for the dishwasher. Do I need to make this a
20 amp or is 15 sufficient? Will put in an outlet behind the
dishwasher location for convenience.

I was also thinking it might be good to extend a couple outlets off
circuit 2 to the new counter outlets. That way I won't trip the
breaker if someone decides to run the microwave, can opener, blender,
toaster, and whatever other appliance at the same time.

I've got 100Amp service in a new panel that was just installed this
summer when they found the old one full of water while wiring the new
AC.

All appliance will be brand new, so that should cut down some energy
use there too.

Anything I am missing?

The living room outlets I referenced are actually in the dining area.
I think it is called a dining L.

No problem with the 2/4 foot rule. I want lots of outlets, so will
have plenty staggered.

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
Personally I like the Frig to share a circuit with something that I
would notice quickly if it were out, like an overhead light.

Ideally the fridge should be on it's own circuit. This circuit should never
'go out' unless the fridge trips it (assuming people aren't playing with the
breakers) and if the fridge trips it, you probably have a dead fridge
anyway...

-Tim