We live in the Houston area, so we evacuated when hurricane Rita threatened
last week. We made the mistake of leaving the electricity turned on to the
house. When we returned, it was obvious from the clocks that the juice had
failed for some period while we were gone. There must have been some strong
thunderstorms because the microwave and the oven were both damaged. The
microwave had a surge protector on it (because of a previous strike that
fried the original) but the LED panel was still damaged.

The oven, an 11 year old GE with electronic controls didn't fare as well.
As long as power is applied the oven beeps continuously and the display
shows "F1". Pushing the "clear" button does nothing. Pushing "clock" will
stop the beeping temporarily (about 30 seconds) but then the beeping
returns. Turning the power off at the circuit breaker for a while and then
back on has no effect.

Any suggestions, please?

Alex

Alex wrote:
We live in the Houston area, so we evacuated when hurricane Rita threatened
last week. We made the mistake of leaving the electricity turned on to the
house. When we returned, it was obvious from the clocks that the juice had
failed for some period while we were gone. There must have been some strong
thunderstorms because the microwave and the oven were both damaged. The
microwave had a surge protector on it (because of a previous strike that
fried the original) but the LED panel was still damaged.

The oven, an 11 year old GE with electronic controls didn't fare as well.
As long as power is applied the oven beeps continuously and the display
shows "F1". Pushing the "clear" button does nothing. Pushing "clock" will
stop the beeping temporarily (about 30 seconds) but then the beeping
returns. Turning the power off at the circuit breaker for a while and then
back on has no effect.

Any suggestions, please?

Alex

Hi,

No model#'s posted, but some common F1's....

F0 and F1 - Failed Thermistor Control - Replace Electronic Range
Control (ERC)

F0 or F1 - Failed transistor in control - If code cannot be cancelled,
replace the Electronic Range Control (ERC) or touch pad

F0 - F1 - F7 Stuck keypad may mean relay is turned on. Determine if
problem is with the Key Panel or Control by:
1. Pushing CLEAR/OFF pad.
2. Disconnecting Ribbon Cable from control and waiting at least 30
minutes to see if Code recurs:
If code recurs, problem is in the control. Replace control.
If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel.

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

Alex writes:

Any suggestions, please?

Why are lightning and surges are the mythological causes of every failure?
Even in the absence of any evidence or likelihood.

Presumably these electronic devices sat in a *condensing atmosphere* for
days or weeks. Not for nothing do electronic components specs say 80 pct
RH max, non-condensing.

Get the ambient humidity down and let them dry out for a similar period
before you condemn them. Get a reliable hygrometer or psychrometer. Where
you live your air conditioning is critical, and you ought to check the
performance in terms of dehumidification. Anything over about 60 pct RH
will cause you no end of costly problems, more costly than good air
conditioning.

"Appliance Repair Aid" wrote in message
ups.com...

Alex wrote:
We live in the Houston area, so we evacuated when hurricane Rita
threatened
last week. We made the mistake of leaving the electricity turned on to
the
house. When we returned, it was obvious from the clocks that the juice
had
failed for some period while we were gone. There must have been some
strong
thunderstorms because the microwave and the oven were both damaged. The
microwave had a surge protector on it (because of a previous strike that
fried the original) but the LED panel was still damaged.

The oven, an 11 year old GE with electronic controls didn't fare as well.
As long as power is applied the oven beeps continuously and the display
shows "F1". Pushing the "clear" button does nothing. Pushing "clock"
will
stop the beeping temporarily (about 30 seconds) but then the beeping
returns. Turning the power off at the circuit breaker for a while and
then
back on has no effect.

Any suggestions, please?

Alex

Hi,

No model#'s posted, but some common F1's....

F0 and F1 - Failed Thermistor Control - Replace Electronic Range
Control (ERC)

F0 or F1 - Failed transistor in control - If code cannot be cancelled,
replace the Electronic Range Control (ERC) or touch pad

F0 - F1 - F7 Stuck keypad may mean relay is turned on. Determine if
problem is with the Key Panel or Control by:
1. Pushing CLEAR/OFF pad.
2. Disconnecting Ribbon Cable from control and waiting at least 30
minutes to see if Code recurs:
If code recurs, problem is in the control. Replace control.
If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel.

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/


Thanks for the detailed reply, Jeff. Looks like I need a new ERC. I'll
have to compare the cost of the ERC to a new oven and go from there. BTW,
the model # is:
JKP14WOP3WG.

Thanks again,

Alex

Consider fixing the reason for that failure. A plug-in
protector does not even claim to protect from what is
suspected harmed electronics. Effective protection (which
also costs tens of times less money per protected appliance)
is a 'whole house' protector. Effective because it is earthed
(assuming a dwelling's earth ground meets or exceeds post 1990
NEC requirements).

Effective 'whole house' protectors are sold in Lowes (GE and
Cutler-Hammer) and in Home Depot (Intermatic). Other
responsible protector manufacturers are Siemens, Leviton,
Polyphaser, and Square D. Your protector was from what
manufacturer?

What does that plug-in protector do? It shunts (connects)
all wires together during a transient. IOW it provided a
transient with more paths, destructively, through the adjacent
appliance. Plug-in protectors don't mention the typically
destructive transient they DON'T protect from. In fact they
avoid the entire issue of effective protection. A protector
is only as effective as its earth ground. No earth ground on
that plug-in protector means no effective protection. You
even have an example of that fact.

Alex wrote:
Thanks for the detailed reply, Jeff. Looks like I need a new ERC.
I'll have to compare the cost of the ERC to a new oven and go
from there. BTW, the model # is:
JKP14WOP3WG.

Thanks again,

Alex

Hi,

JKP14WOP3WG

I found JKP14WP3WG

WB27K5123 Control - No Longer Available

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=258965
Control panel assy-white

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/