subpanel
 

i posted this in the thread above, GFCI circuit protection


OK OK I have decided to run a subpanel. BUT cripes, while the subpanels
are cheap, man, 8/3 AWG is PRICY. OK so using substantially cheaper 10/3
AWG gives me a 30A subpanel. I would think this would be sufficient:
2000W heater, plus antoher 1000W for outlets and such, gives me ~15A,
assuming full useage? 30A seems like it would be sufficient, and a LOT
cheaper. Comments?
thx

I just ran 8/3 the length of my house to install a transfer switch; it
wasn't THAT expensive. How long do you have to run it?

Toller wrote:

I just ran 8/3 the length of my house to install a transfer switch; it
wasn't THAT expensive. How long do you have to run it?


'bout 70-80 feet. i mean, compared with even 10/3. $1.73/ft at Lowes for
UF cable (burial needed) = ~$140

"chester" wrote in message
...
Toller wrote:

I just ran 8/3 the length of my house to install a transfer switch; it
wasn't THAT expensive. How long do you have to run it?
'bout 70-80 feet. i mean, compared with even 10/3. $1.73/ft at Lowes for
UF cable (burial needed) = ~$140

It would be ashame to do all that work and find out a few years later that
you needed the extra capacity.
I relapse from time to time, but it is almost always best to do things the
right way the first time.

In article , "Toller" wrote:

"chester" wrote in message
...
Toller wrote:

I just ran 8/3 the length of my house to install a transfer switch; it
wasn't THAT expensive. How long do you have to run it?
'bout 70-80 feet. i mean, compared with even 10/3. $1.73/ft at Lowes for
UF cable (burial needed) = ~$140

It would be ashame to do all that work and find out a few years later that
you needed the extra capacity.
I relapse from time to time, but it is almost always best to do things the
right way the first time.

Except when fixing broken water lines...

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"chester" wrote in message
...
i posted this in the thread above, GFCI circuit protection


OK OK I have decided to run a subpanel. BUT cripes, while the subpanels
are cheap, man, 8/3 AWG is PRICY. OK so using substantially cheaper 10/3
AWG gives me a 30A subpanel. I would think this would be sufficient: 2000W
heater, plus antoher 1000W for outlets and such, gives me ~15A, assuming
full useage? 30A seems like it would be sufficient, and a LOT cheaper.
Comments?
thx

10/3 may be cutting it close depending on the load. How much will it cost
to do it over when you find that you want more power? Sure pays to do it
right the first time and have it be the only time.

chester wrote:

i posted this in the thread above, GFCI circuit protection


OK OK I have decided to run a subpanel. BUT cripes, while the subpanels
are cheap, man, 8/3 AWG is PRICY. OK so using substantially cheaper 10/3
AWG gives me a 30A subpanel. I would think this would be sufficient:
2000W heater, plus antoher 1000W for outlets and such, gives me ~15A,
assuming full useage? 30A seems like it would be sufficient, and a LOT
cheaper. Comments?
thx


You might wanna check out #6 aluminum SER cable.

Best regards,
Bob

wrote:

On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 11:02:59 -0500, zxcvbob
wrote:


chester wrote:


i posted this in the thread above, GFCI circuit protection


OK OK I have decided to run a subpanel. BUT cripes, while the subpanels
are cheap, man, 8/3 AWG is PRICY. OK so using substantially cheaper 10/3
AWG gives me a 30A subpanel. I would think this would be sufficient:
2000W heater, plus antoher 1000W for outlets and such, gives me ~15A,
assuming full useage? 30A seems like it would be sufficient, and a LOT
cheaper. Comments?
thx


You might wanna check out #6 aluminum SER cable.



Why can't a guy just put a circuit out to his shed without everyone
saying he needs enough power to light up a small city or he will be
sorry..

http://members.aol.com/gfretwell/what.jpg


Original poster asked for comments. You don't have to read them if you
don't want.

His first choice was 8/3 cable, and the #6 Aluminum SER that I suggested
is equivalent but might be a lot cheaper.

Best regards,
Bob

wrote in message
Why can't a guy just put a circuit out to his shed without everyone
saying he needs enough power to light up a small city or he will be
sorry..

He can. But if that is all he wanted to do, he'd have done it and not posted
to a newsgroup that offers advice and opinions. What he does in the end is
his business, but often a suggestion by others can save a lot of grief.
I've read some rather simple sounding questions on this group and found
replies that covered a lot of thing I never would have thought of in the
situation. There is much knowledge (and some BS too) posted here that can
make the DIYer a lot smarter.

Why can't a guy just put a circuit out to his shed without everyone
saying he needs enough power to light up a small city or he will be
sorry..


If all you're doing is running lights, you can use an
extension cord. Or batteries, for all anyone cares.
But once you get down to running an actual circut,
and adding heat (which implies "shop" as opposed to "shed")
it's time to get real.

He can. But if that is all he wanted to do, he'd have done it and not
posted
to a newsgroup that offers advice and opinions. What he does in the end
is his business, but often a suggestion by others can save a lot of grief.
I've read some rather simple sounding questions on this group and found
replies that covered a lot of thing I never would have thought of in the
situation. There is much knowledge (and some BS too) posted here that can
make the DIYer a lot smarter.
For instance... I have run 2 120v and 1 240v circuit to my workshop over a
period of 2 years; and would like a second 240v. I sure which I had just
put in a subpanel.

"chester" wrote in message
...
Toller wrote:

I just ran 8/3 the length of my house to install a transfer switch; it
wasn't THAT expensive. How long do you have to run it?


'bout 70-80 feet. i mean, compared with even 10/3. $1.73/ft at Lowes for
UF cable (burial needed) = ~$140


You might want to try pricing the job using 1" (Or 3/4") schedule 40 PVC
conduit and individual conductors instead of cable. I suggest that you use
3-#8's and 1-#10 for ground for a thirty amp feed because of the distance.
You won't get much heat from an electric heater if it is experiencing
voltage drop. Keep in mind that circuit breakers are only rated for 80% of
their marked capacity for a continuous load (3 hours or more). I don't
recommend aluminum wire for underground use.


John Grabowski
http://www.mrelectrician.tv

zxcvbob wrote:
wrote:

On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 11:32:01 -0500, zxcvbob
wrote:


His first choice was 8/3 cable, and the #6 Aluminum SER that I
suggested is equivalent but might be a lot cheaper.

Best regards,
Bob



His original choice was 12-2 UF. He even bought the cable .



You can't use 12 guage wire for a subpanel because the minimum feeder
size is 30A. He might could run a 12/3 edison circuit instead of a
subpanel; it kind of depends on whether that electric heater is 120V or
240V. (Technically it could still be done as a 20A branch circuit if it
has both 120V and 240V loads, but I don't believe that's code compliant.)

-Bob


It is definately code compliant as long as the breaker protecting the
circuit is double pole or equipped with handle ties. Common trip is not
required.
--
Tom Horne

"This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous
for general use." Thomas Alva Edison