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#1
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Replacement battery for drill: pricing idiocy
A year or two back I bought a Black & Decker 9.6V cordless drill that
came with two batteries. I don't recall how much I paid for it. Several months back, when I wanted a new battery for it, I found that for very little more than the price of a battery alone I could buy a whole new drill and battery (but only one battery, not the two that I got originally). A couple of days ago I noticed that Lowes had the drill with *two* batteries for exactly the same price as for a battery alone! Can anybody explain the logic of this? Perce |
#2
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"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message ... A year or two back I bought a Black & Decker 9.6V cordless drill that came with two batteries. I don't recall how much I paid for it. Several months back, when I wanted a new battery for it, I found that for very little more than the price of a battery alone I could buy a whole new drill and battery (but only one battery, not the two that I got originally). A couple of days ago I noticed that Lowes had the drill with *two* batteries for exactly the same price as for a battery alone! Can anybody explain the logic of this? Perce Marketing better to sell new products than parts for the old. True in almost every industry. I take my batteries back to Batteries Plus and have then rebuilt with a warranty. Costs less than a new battery. If you really want to go nuts look at the battery terminals and positions. Some companies like Sears change styles and types at the drop of a hat. Making the new batteries incompatible with the old drills. |
#3
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I had that same experience quite a few years ago with a Milwaukee
driver/drill. Hadn't even used it that much and the battery went kaput after a few years. It cost me like $70 for a new battery. When this one goes, it will be time for a new/better drill. |
#4
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"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message
... A year or two back I bought a Black & Decker 9.6V cordless drill that came with two batteries. I don't recall how much I paid for it. Several months back, when I wanted a new battery for it, I found that for very little more than the price of a battery alone I could buy a whole new drill and battery (but only one battery, not the two that I got originally). A couple of days ago I noticed that Lowes had the drill with *two* batteries for exactly the same price as for a battery alone! Can anybody explain the logic of this? I've found that older tools are much better made than the new stuff, which is made as cheap, and with as much flimsy plastic, as possible. My old B&D 7.2v drill used to eat right through cinderblock. My newer B&D 18v drill sometimes slips or gets stuck on wood, probably due to the crummy keyless chuck, which makes it practically impossible to get a good grip on the bit. Unfortunately, I couldn't find replacement battery packs for the old drill, so it probably went to the donation pile with the rest of my junk. Had I known I could have rebuilt it, I would have kept it. Anyway, the newer drill is good for use as a screw and bolt driver, and the batteries work in a bunch of other tools, even my weedwacker, so it's not a big deal. Pagan |
#6
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On 09/11/05 06:55 pm Pagan tossed the following ingredients into the
ever-growing pot of cybersoup: A year or two back I bought a Black & Decker 9.6V cordless drill that came with two batteries. I don't recall how much I paid for it. Several months back, when I wanted a new battery for it, I found that for very little more than the price of a battery alone I could buy a whole new drill and battery (but only one battery, not the two that I got originally). A couple of days ago I noticed that Lowes had the drill with *two* batteries for exactly the same price as for a battery alone! Can anybody explain the logic of this? I've found that older tools are much better made than the new stuff, which is made as cheap, and with as much flimsy plastic, as possible. My old B&D 7.2v drill used to eat right through cinderblock. My newer B&D 18v drill sometimes slips or gets stuck on wood, probably due to the crummy keyless chuck, which makes it practically impossible to get a good grip on the bit. Unfortunately, I couldn't find replacement battery packs for the old drill, so it probably went to the donation pile with the rest of my junk. Had I known I could have rebuilt it, I would have kept it. Anyway, the newer drill is good for use as a screw and bolt driver, and the batteries work in a bunch of other tools, even my weedwacker, so it's not a big deal. But this is the same drill and the same battery, not a cheaper, flimsier model. Perce |
#7
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#9
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Jim Yanik wrote:
wrote in oups.com: I had that same experience quite a few years ago with a Milwaukee driver/drill. Hadn't even used it that much and the battery went kaput after a few years. It cost me like $70 for a new battery. When this one goes, it will be time for a new/better drill. My Makita 6095 drill's battery packs(9.6v) still only cost $29 at Harbor Freight or Home Depot. If you think about it,the batteries are probably the most costly part of the drill,especially for higher voltages that have more cells per pack. My extension cord cost about $10. I don't use cordless tools. |
#10
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On 09/12/05 11:35 am Amun tossed the following ingredients into the
ever-growing pot of cybersoup: I had that same experience quite a few years ago with a Milwaukee driver/drill. Hadn't even used it that much and the battery went kaput after a few years. It cost me like $70 for a new battery. When this one goes, it will be time for a new/better drill. My Makita 6095 drill's battery packs(9.6v) still only cost $29 at Harbor Freight or Home Depot. If you think about it,the batteries are probably the most costly part of the drill,especially for higher voltages that have more cells per pack. My extension cord cost about $10. I don't use cordless tools. I have a drill that I inherited from my father, and he bought it used over 40 years ago. Still takes on any job without problems. Never have a problem finding a 120v outlet to plug the cord in either. g I do have a 120V drill as well, but I'd rather carry a cordless drill up a ladder than have scores of feet of extension cord draped all over the place. Perce |
#11
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You can check eBay for spare batteries, look carefully at their
feedback to make sure you aren't getting a bum replacement.-Jitney |
#12
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wrote in message ... On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 14:40:31 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy" wrote: On 09/12/05 11:35 am Amun tossed the following ingredients into the ever-growing pot of cybersoup: I had that same experience quite a few years ago with a Milwaukee driver/drill. Hadn't even used it that much and the battery went kaput after a few years. It cost me like $70 for a new battery. When this one goes, it will be time for a new/better drill. My Makita 6095 drill's battery packs(9.6v) still only cost $29 at Harbor Freight or Home Depot. If you think about it,the batteries are probably the most costly part of the drill,especially for higher voltages that have more cells per pack. My extension cord cost about $10. I don't use cordless tools. I have a drill that I inherited from my father, and he bought it used over 40 years ago. Still takes on any job without problems. Never have a problem finding a 120v outlet to plug the cord in either. g I do have a 120V drill as well, but I'd rather carry a cordless drill up a ladder than have scores of feet of extension cord draped all over the place. Standing in a puddle of water with a corded drill can give you a cheap thrill. I certainly wouldn't pay someone by the hour if they showed up on my work site with only corded drills. That's like a guy showing up to do framing with only a handsaw. With a corded drill you learn pretty quick not to stand in puddles. And I've seen guys with a handsaw do faster & better work than some people can do with a skillsaw. g The cordless stuff has it's uses, but those batteries are just plain dumb with so many different non-interchangeable types. If the batteries were standard, more of us might grow to like them more. AMUN |
#13
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#14
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On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 23:42:47 +0000, John‰]*
************************************************** ************* wrote: In article , SQLit wrote: "Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message ... A year or two back I bought a Black & Decker 9.6V cordless drill that came with two batteries. I don't recall how much I paid for it. Several months back, when I wanted a new battery for it, I found that for very little more than the price of a battery alone I could buy a whole new drill and battery (but only one battery, not the two that I got originally). A couple of days ago I noticed that Lowes had the drill with *two* batteries for exactly the same price as for a battery alone! Can anybody explain the logic of this? Perce Marketing better to sell new products than parts for the old. True in almost every industry. I take my batteries back to Batteries Plus and have then rebuilt with a warranty. Costs less than a new battery. If you really want to go nuts look at the battery terminals and positions. Some companies like Sears change styles and types at the drop of a hat. Making the new batteries incompatible with the old drills. That's why I stopped buying those cheap crappy Crapsman cordless tools. I paid $39.95 on sale for a 14.4 screwgun with two batteries, charger and case. When one battery quickly died I discovered they want $59.95 for a replacement, so I waited for another sale and bought another complete kit for $39.95. It didn't last much longer. While most companies have pretty much standardized the 12V, 14.4V and 18V tools, Sears wants to sell you a 15.785V tool so you are stuck buying the batteries from them. 1) I thought you said you bought a 14.4V tool, above. 2) There is no such thing as a 15.785V battery 3) Because everyone makes a 14.4V tool, doesn't make the batteries in any way interchangeable. No more crappy Crapsman cordless tools for me. Drop the "cordless" (and even "crappy") in that sentence, and I agree. -- Keith |
#15
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I would never buy anything from Harbor Frieght Tools.
I had a Ryobi 18v cordless set that I ran into the ground. I did however get my money's worth out of it. When it was new I ran the battery down out of the box, charged it up and used it until it was dead again. This is supposed to increase the life of the battery no matter what size. You should never let your battery overcharge or leave it out in the sunlight. When your done working at the end of the day unplug it. If you have trouble remembering - get a cheap timer. 12 bucks for a timer is better than paying for two new batteries. Also, dont use cordless for mixing anything thick like morter. And don't use for drilling into brick unless its a cordless hammer drill. When my Ryobi Sh!t the bed I just took it back to Home Dump and they gave me a replacement charger and two new batteries. I it used almost everyday for a year before my batteries started to fail. Unfortunately I dropped the drill off a 28ft ladder and the casing split. I decided to upgrade to Rigid 18 volt hammerdrill combo. It has rapid charging and you can charge two at a time. The quality is far better than any cordless I've used and they detach a lot easier. Feel free to respond or correct me anyone. I have yet to use the cordless finish nailer from any manufacturer. Has anyone had a chance to? I'd like to know the pros and cons. |
#16
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On Tue, 13 Sep 2005 07:59:35 +0000, tsunamisam wrote:
I would never buy anything from Harbor Frieght Tools. Snob. They have some decent tools and certainly some crap. I've bought cases of throw-away brushes from them, and a couple of crap cordless drills. They work, but not well enough to bother with, next to my PC and Makita. I recently bought a *cheap* 10" slider. Though not a Hitachi, it's reasonable, for 1/5 the cost. Even if it were only good enough for frameing (it's better than that), it was worth the money. I had a Ryobi 18v cordless set that I ran into the ground. I did however get my money's worth out of it. Ryobi is on my list of "never buy again". I have one of thier circular saws. While it has been quite servicable and a *huge* step up form the Crapsman it replaced, it's still junk compared to a PC or Makita. It'll soon be replaced. When it was new I ran the battery down out of the box, charged it up and used it until it was dead again. This is supposed to increase the life of the battery no matter what size. Wrong! You should *never* run a multi-cell NiCd (or NiMH) battery flat. You will reverse-charge any weak cell and ruin the pack. When you *first* notive any lack of torque or RPM, stop and change batteries. You're about to destroy them and there isn't much energy left anyway. You should never let your battery overcharge or leave it out in the sunlight. When your done working at the end of the day unplug it. Sorta. It's fine to let it charge overnight, if it's going to be used again tomorrow. Most chargers will shut off when the battery is topped anyway. No, it's not a good thing to cook batteries, but decent chargers don't do this. Crap like Dustbusters and "rechargeable" NiCd flashlights do. Avoid them. If you have trouble remembering - get a cheap timer. 12 bucks for a timer is better than paying for two new batteries. Also, dont use cordless for mixing anything thick like morter. And don't use for drilling into brick unless its a cordless hammer drill. Don't use it for any continuous operation. The batteries will not like it. When my Ryobi Sh!t the bed I just took it back to Home Dump and they gave me a replacement charger and two new batteries. I it used almost everyday for a year before my batteries started to fail. Unfortunately I dropped the drill off a 28ft ladder and the casing split. I decided to upgrade to Rigid 18 volt hammerdrill combo. It has rapid charging and you can charge two at a time. The quality is far better than any cordless I've used and they detach a lot easier. Feel free to respond or correct me anyone. Home Despot will do pretty much what the customers wants. They'll ship it back to the manufacturer anyway. I'm not sure why you'd want a hammer drill though. I have yet to use the cordless finish nailer from any manufacturer. Has anyone had a chance to? I'd like to know the pros and cons. Not I, but would certainly like to hear from anyone who has too! -- Keith |
#17
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It's an intelligence test. You passed.
Where should we mail your diploma? More seriously, I really don't know. Must be someone in the company doesn't have much intelligence. I had the same problem about 15 years ago with Schlage deadbolts. Cost more for the inside cylinder assembly than to just buy the entire lock. -- Christopher A. Young Do good work. It's longer in the short run but shorter in the long run. .. .. "Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message ... A year or two back I bought a Black & Decker 9.6V cordless drill that came with two batteries. I don't recall how much I paid for it. Several months back, when I wanted a new battery for it, I found that for very little more than the price of a battery alone I could buy a whole new drill and battery (but only one battery, not the two that I got originally). A couple of days ago I noticed that Lowes had the drill with *two* batteries for exactly the same price as for a battery alone! Can anybody explain the logic of this? Perce |
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