Hi all,

I've finished installing hardwood floor and was trying to install base board
in the bed room. It's not as easy as it looks. I kept messing up by
cutting it too short when cut at 45 degree angle with the miter saw. What
would be the easiest way
to measure and cut to fit precisely? TIA

On 6/28/2005 4:33 AM US(ET), pkmicro took fingers to keys, and typed the
following:

Hi all,

I've finished installing hardwood floor and was trying to install base board
in the bed room. It's not as easy as it looks. I kept messing up by
cutting it too short when cut at 45 degree angle with the miter saw. What
would be the easiest way
to measure and cut to fit precisely? TIA


I cut a piece of moulding an inch longer than the measured space where
it will go, then mitered the end. I then place the piece in the space
with the miters together and mark where the other (square cut) end
should be cut to fit.

pkmicro wrote:
Hi all,

I've finished installing hardwood floor and was trying to install
base board in the bed room. It's not as easy as it looks. I kept
messing up by cutting it too short when cut at 45 degree angle with
the miter saw. What would be the easiest way
to measure and cut to fit precisely? TIA

Assuming they are inside corners (outside are easy), cope instead of
miter.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

pkmicro wrote:

I've finished installing hardwood floor and was trying to install base board
in the bed room. It's not as easy as it looks. I kept messing up by
cutting it too short when cut at 45 degree angle with the miter saw. What
would be the easiest way
to measure and cut to fit precisely? TIA

When measuring use a tape measure and a folding ruler, or a cheater
piece. The cheater piece is a short section of trim that is cut with
the desired end profile (mitered or coped) and cut to a known length -
say 12". The cheater piece is put in place and the tape is used to
read to the end of it - your measurement is the tape reading plus the
12". A tape and a rule are used in a similar fashion.

Depending on the profile of your baseboard, mitering and then coping
provides a tighter joint that stays closed. Done that way, only one
end of the piece is profiled, the other is cut square and butted up to
the wall in the corner.

R

Assuming they are inside corners (outside are easy), cope instead of
miter.


I must be doing something wrong, then. For me, coped inside corners are
almost foolproof. Getting a tight and even outside corner is a
challenge for me.

"pkmicro" wrote in message
k.net...
Hi all,

I've finished installing hardwood floor and was trying to install base
board
in the bed room. It's not as easy as it looks. I kept messing up by
cutting it too short when cut at 45 degree angle with the miter saw. What
would be the easiest way
to measure and cut to fit precisely? TIA



I never have the pleasure of working in new construction. Nothing is ever
square plumb or level. I never try to one cut it pass. Make sure you saw
table is adjusted to square before you start. Cut the pieces in a vertical
position right side facing or away depending on your need. This is where
marking the angle on the board saves a lot of mis-cuts.

I normally measure out an entire room or project before I saw the first
piece. You can save a lot of waste by planning your cuts in advance. I use
the symbols \ / for inside and outside corners and an S or | for straight
cuts

I measure along the wall, long point to long point whether it is two inside
corners or a corner and a straight cut. I add 1/8" or 1/4" (depends on my
perception of the plumbness of the room) to the measurement, mark the board
with the angle of the cut (like \ / or \ |). Make the cut and test fit.
Then trim as needed a saws breath or half at a time until it fits. Normally
1/16" greater than the actual "measured" width of the opening gives the best
fit. Sometimes thin shims are needed if the wall is not plumb to get the
corner to fit together.

For outside corners I always cut it at least an inch or two too long and use
a scrap piece for the opposite angle trimming the first until it fits and
mates. Then repeat for the other side. This is also a good place to use the
suggestion another poster made about getting a scrap to fit and then
figuring out how much longer the actual piece needs to be.

Coping is also widely used and can create superior joints. I flunked coping
101. So I am usually satisfied with filling any minor imperfection with a
high quality caulk.)) Actually I do a little coping on the back side of
some of the cuts using a utility knife if that is what it takes to get an
acceptable fit.

Colbyt

Thank you so much for all the prompt response.

I like the cheater piece and tried it and it worked very well.
Thanks again.






"Colbyt" wrote in message
...

"pkmicro" wrote in message
k.net...
Hi all,

I've finished installing hardwood floor and was trying to install base
board
in the bed room. It's not as easy as it looks. I kept messing up by
cutting it too short when cut at 45 degree angle with the miter saw.
What
would be the easiest way
to measure and cut to fit precisely? TIA



I never have the pleasure of working in new construction. Nothing is ever
square plumb or level. I never try to one cut it pass. Make sure you saw
table is adjusted to square before you start. Cut the pieces in a
vertical
position right side facing or away depending on your need. This is where
marking the angle on the board saves a lot of mis-cuts.

I normally measure out an entire room or project before I saw the first
piece. You can save a lot of waste by planning your cuts in advance. I
use
the symbols \ / for inside and outside corners and an S or | for
straight
cuts

I measure along the wall, long point to long point whether it is two
inside
corners or a corner and a straight cut. I add 1/8" or 1/4" (depends on my
perception of the plumbness of the room) to the measurement, mark the
board
with the angle of the cut (like \ / or \ |). Make the cut and test fit.
Then trim as needed a saws breath or half at a time until it fits.
Normally
1/16" greater than the actual "measured" width of the opening gives the
best
fit. Sometimes thin shims are needed if the wall is not plumb to get the
corner to fit together.

For outside corners I always cut it at least an inch or two too long and
use
a scrap piece for the opposite angle trimming the first until it fits and
mates. Then repeat for the other side. This is also a good place to use
the
suggestion another poster made about getting a scrap to fit and then
figuring out how much longer the actual piece needs to be.

Coping is also widely used and can create superior joints. I flunked
coping
101. So I am usually satisfied with filling any minor imperfection with a
high quality caulk.)) Actually I do a little coping on the back side of
some of the cuts using a utility knife if that is what it takes to get an
acceptable fit.

Colbyt