The instrucitons say to overlap 1 1/4 inch minimum. But I have 3
inches on the top of every 'plank' that is smooth (not finished). Is
that supposed to show?

When I get to the top, how do I end? Just caulk the top edge?

Instructions call for furing strip at the bottom. Could I just rip a
hardeeplank up in a 1 inch widths and nail that to the edge of the 2x4
framing?

JimL wrote:
The instrucitons say to overlap 1 1/4 inch minimum. But I have 3
inches on the top of every 'plank' that is smooth (not finished). Is
that supposed to show?

If you overlap it by the recommended 1-1/4", then part of the
smooth area will show. It is supposed to give the reverse
board and batten look. You can overlap it the full width of
the smooth area if you want. If you want no smooth area
showing and you want the greater coverage, use the standard
lap siding which has no smooth area.

When I get to the top, how do I end? Just caulk the top edge?

Traditionally, you put a trim board at the top. Can be 1x2 or
1x4 or whatever you want.

Instructions call for furing strip at the bottom. Could I just rip a
hardeeplank up in a 1 inch widths and nail that to the edge of the 2x4
framing?


Yes, if you are talking about starter strips at the bottom plate.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 21:50:06 GMT, Robert Allison
wrote:

JimL wrote:
The instrucitons say to overlap 1 1/4 inch minimum. But I have 3
inches on the top of every 'plank' that is smooth (not finished). Is
that supposed to show?

If you overlap it by the recommended 1-1/4", then part of the
smooth area will show. It is supposed to give the reverse
board and batten look. You can overlap it the full width of
the smooth area if you want. If you want no smooth area
showing and you want the greater coverage, use the standard
lap siding which has no smooth area.

When I get to the top, how do I end? Just caulk the top edge?

Traditionally, you put a trim board at the top. Can be 1x2 or
1x4 or whatever you want.

Instructions call for furing strip at the bottom. Could I just rip a
hardeeplank up in a 1 inch widths and nail that to the edge of the 2x4
framing?


Yes, if you are talking about starter strips at the bottom plate.

Gracias.

Instructions call for furing strip at the bottom. Could I just rip a
hardeeplank up in a 1 inch widths and nail that to the edge of the 2x4
framing?


Yes, if you are talking about starter strips at the bottom plate.

Gracias.

However it'll be a lot easier to just buy some 1 1/2 X 1/4" treated
lath at lowes or HD to use as a starter strip. I just finished
residing my house and I'd hate to think of ripping 1" strips for the
whole perimeter! Dust, dust, dust...

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 21:48:18 -0400, John/Charleston
wrote:



Instructions call for furing strip at the bottom. Could I just rip a
hardeeplank up in a 1 inch widths and nail that to the edge of the 2x4
framing?


Yes, if you are talking about starter strips at the bottom plate.

Gracias.

However it'll be a lot easier to just buy some 1 1/2 X 1/4" treated
lath at lowes or HD to use as a starter strip. I just finished
residing my house and I'd hate to think of ripping 1" strips for the
whole perimeter! Dust, dust, dust...

I did what you suggest. I only have an electric hand saw so gave up
on the idea of ripping the cement boards. I hate that mask.
I'm using 3/4 inch foam board so I have the 1/4 furring strip over
the foam to the left of back door, over which I then put the starter
cement board.
I spliced some new lumber on the bottom of several 2x4s that were
termite damaged, so maybe my house won't fall down. Later, I'll add
some more new 2x4s when I replace the single pane windows with low e..

When I do the right side I'm going with 3/4 1x2 'cedar appearce
boards' and add the furing strip at the bottom and then put the foam
inside the frame. That should better discourage the rats from
entering my walls.

Also, I bought the hdg nails suggested and had a horrible time
trying to drive them so had to predrill.


JimL

On Tue, 12 Apr 2005 06:27:53 -0500, JimL wrote:

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 21:48:18 -0400, John/Charleston
wrote:



Instructions call for furing strip at the bottom. Could I just rip a
hardeeplank up in a 1 inch widths and nail that to the edge of the 2x4
framing?


Yes, if you are talking about starter strips at the bottom plate.

Gracias.

However it'll be a lot easier to just buy some 1 1/2 X 1/4" treated
lath at lowes or HD to use as a starter strip. I just finished
residing my house and I'd hate to think of ripping 1" strips for the
whole perimeter! Dust, dust, dust...

I did what you suggest. I only have an electric hand saw so gave up
on the idea of ripping the cement boards. I hate that mask.
I'm using 3/4 inch foam board so I have the 1/4 furring strip over
the foam to the left of back door, over which I then put the starter
cement board.
I spliced some new lumber on the bottom of several 2x4s that were
termite damaged, so maybe my house won't fall down. Later, I'll add
some more new 2x4s when I replace the single pane windows with low e..

When I do the right side I'm going with 3/4 1x2 'cedar appearce
boards' and add the furing strip at the bottom and then put the foam
inside the frame. That should better discourage the rats from
entering my walls.

Also, I bought the hdg nails suggested and had a horrible time
trying to drive them so had to predrill.


JimL

Not sure what hdg nails are, I used a roof nails with my roofing
nailer.

I am in the process of installing cement fiber siding (not Hardee brand
tho) also. I am using nails specifically made for that purpose-- don't
know if that is what you are referrring to, but I am predrilling my
siding also. As for the foam you are talking about and keeping rats out,
don't count on it. They can and will gnaw through it with no trouble at
all. It is like candy to them. Use galvanized flashing where you have
any areas that rats and other rodents can enter. Larry

On Tue, 12 Apr 2005 08:08:38 -0500, (lp13-30) wrote:

I am in the process of installing cement fiber siding (not Hardee brand
tho) also. I am using nails specifically made for that purpose-- don't
know if that is what you are referrring to, but I am predrilling my
siding also. As for the foam you are talking about and keeping rats out,
don't count on it. They can and will gnaw through it with no trouble at
all. It is like candy to them. Use galvanized flashing where you have
any areas that rats and other rodents can enter. Larry

I've put up some heavy wire mesh over the screen holes in my sophit
vents that seems to keep the squirrels and rats out or in. So I will
try that inside of the starter board.
..
HDG probably stands for Hot Dip Galvanized. Every other nail would
bend when I struck it with a hammer when driving thru the cement
board. I'm going with deck screws because I may need to be able to
disassemble...