I have a nice large jotul model 118 box stove that recently developed a
small crack on the exteriour cast top surface. This is a cast iron piece
and the crack only appears when the stove is really going good. It's more
of a hairline type crack that, like I said, is only visible when it's
really cranking out some heat when first started, is just -barely- wide
enough to see a bit of light though at the widest point on the edge and is
about 3-4 inches long. Once the stove settles down to a good burn, the
crack closes back up and I can't even see it. It's on the front edge and I
think it happened when I spilled some water trying to fill the tea kettle
that stays on top of it. Below is a link showing what this stove looks
like.

http://jotulflame.com/box.html


My question, I know welding cast iron is basically a waste of time. I'm
thinking of drilling and tapping some (shallow?) holes to bolt a piece of
heavy strap metal along this edge to keep this crack from opening up and
getting worse. Does this sound like a good idea? Also think I'll flip this
top around so the 'cracked' end is less heated by the fire. Or should I
just flip it around and see if the crack stops opening up? I don't think
any sort of sealer is going to work as the crack opens and closes with
heat. It doesn't smoke out of it or anything, I just don't want it to
spead. I know drilling the end of a crack helps stop them from spreading
but I hate to drill a hole -through- the top and maybe cause worse problems
if the strap would hold it closed.

I use this to heat my house so looks aren't that important, functionality is
and I don't want it to crack any worse as right now it's still very
useable. I have tried to source a new top but it doesn't seem to be in
production anymore and hasn't been for 20 years. Anyone know where to buy
parts for an old Jotul wood stove? I read you can have new pieces cast at a
foundry, anyone ever done this and have an idea of the cost? I've looked at
the new stoves and none seem to be this large or take long pieces of wood
like this one does. It's a great stove and I want to do whatever I need to
to save it.

TIA for any help or advice.
--

Stacey

"Stacey" wrote in message
...
I have a nice large jotul model 118 box stove that recently developed a
small crack on the exteriour cast top surface. This is a cast iron piece
and the crack only appears when the stove is really going good. It's more
of a hairline type crack that, like I said, is only visible when it's
really cranking out some heat when first started, is just -barely- wide
enough to see a bit of light though at the widest point on the edge and is
about 3-4 inches long. Once the stove settles down to a good burn, the
crack closes back up and I can't even see it. It's on the front edge and I
think it happened when I spilled some water trying to fill the tea kettle
that stays on top of it. Below is a link showing what this stove looks
like.

http://jotulflame.com/box.html

My question, I know welding cast iron is basically a waste of time.

That is just plain wrong in that particular situation.

I'm thinking of drilling and tapping some (shallow?) holes to bolt a
piece of heavy strap metal along this edge to keep this crack from
opening up and getting worse. Does this sound like a good idea?

Nope, better to weld or solder it.

Also think I'll flip this top around so the 'cracked' end is less heated by
the
fire. Or should I just flip it around and see if the crack stops opening up?

No harm in trying that.

I don't think any sort of sealer is going to work
as the crack opens and closes with heat.

Depends on what you seal it with.

It doesn't smoke out of it or anything, I just don't want it to spead.

It likely will if you do nothing.

I know drilling the end of a crack helps stop them from
spreading but I hate to drill a hole -through- the top and
maybe cause worse problems if the strap would hold it closed.

I'd weld or solder it myself.

I use this to heat my house so looks aren't that important,
functionality is and I don't want it to crack any worse as right
now it's still very useable. I have tried to source a new top but
it doesn't seem to be in production anymore and hasn't been for
20 years. Anyone know where to buy parts for an old Jotul
wood stove? I read you can have new pieces cast at a foundry,

Yep.

anyone ever done this and have an idea of the cost?
I've looked at the new stoves and none seem to be this
large or take long pieces of wood like this one does. It's
a great stove and I want to do whatever I need to to save it.

I'd get it welded or soldered.

I have no idea how hot the surface gets but JB Weld
http://jbweld.net/index.php is good for up to 500 degrees. They sell it
at auto repair shops and discount stores.
-Tock

First off you can't "solder" cast iron......Cast Iron can be brazed or
welded......
Take the paret to a welder that can weld cast iron properly and it
should be able to be repaird...........however in the mean time, you
need to keep tyhe crack fropm propagating, so drill a small hole
about 3/32" diam at the exact end of the crack, it will relieve any
internal stresses and prevent the crack from going any further. You
can then apply some furnace cement into this hole and crack to seal it
up. This may last for years if you keep the crack from propagating,
but a weld would be the best proceedure to take in the long run.
Visit my website: http://www.frugalmachinist.com
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On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 12:25:45 GMT, (Roy) wrote:

First off you can't "solder" cast iron......Cast Iron can be brazed or
welded......

Then I guess it can't be spackled either .....


Joel


Take the paret to a welder that can weld cast iron properly and it
should be able to be repaird...........however in the mean time, you
need to keep tyhe crack fropm propagating, so drill a small hole
about 3/32" diam at the exact end of the crack, it will relieve any
internal stresses and prevent the crack from going any further. You
can then apply some furnace cement into this hole and crack to seal it
up. This may last for years if you keep the crack from propagating,
but a weld would be the best proceedure to take in the long run.
Visit my website: http://www.frugalmachinist.com
Opinions expressed are those of my wife,
I had no input whatsoever.
Remove "nospam" from email addy.

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 09:08:31 -0500, Joel M. Eichen
wrote:

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 12:25:45 GMT, (Roy) wrote:

First off you can't "solder" cast iron......Cast Iron can be brazed or
welded......

Then I guess it can't be spackled either .....



Dang, guess Duct Tape is also a no-go.

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 14:20:50 GMT, Gene wrote:

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 09:08:31 -0500, Joel M. Eichen
wrote:

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 12:25:45 GMT, (Roy) wrote:

First off you can't "solder" cast iron......Cast Iron can be brazed or
welded......

Then I guess it can't be spackled either .....



Dang, guess Duct Tape is also a no-go.



They heavy-duty or the regular kind?

In article , (Rod
Speed) says...

I'd weld or solder it myself.

Solder would probably melt back out with a hot fire, but he could braze
it. Brazing is the traditional way of mending cast iron.

--
http://home.teleport.com/~larryc

"Stacey" wrote in message
...
My question, I know welding cast iron is basically a waste of time. I'm
thinking of drilling and tapping some (shallow?) holes to bolt a piece of
heavy strap metal along this edge to keep this crack from opening up and
getting worse.

Different metals expand at different rates in response to heat - doing what
you suggest _could_ put more strain on the crack if the strap metal and
bolts expand at a rate that doesn't match the cast iron. It seems to me
that drilling holes in the piece would weaken it further.

Does this sound like a good idea?

It sounds like a terrible idea to me.

I use this to heat my house so looks aren't that important, functionality
is
and I don't want it to crack any worse as right now it's still very
useable. I have tried to source a new top but it doesn't seem to be in
production anymore and hasn't been for 20 years.

Nothing lasts forever. It sounds like you should get a new stove - it's
hard to believe that somewhere out there someone doesn't make one that will
fit your needs. I don't know what the likelihood of a catastrophic failure
is (the crack enlarging to the point where the piece falls apart during a
fire), but after reading the statistics on house fires caused by
wood-burners, I wouldn't fool around.

From your description, it sounds like the problem is your own fault - count
it as an expensive lesson learned and take the kettle off the stove before
filling it with water in the future.

Anyone know where to buy
parts for an old Jotul wood stove? I read you can have new pieces cast at
a
foundry, anyone ever done this and have an idea of the cost? I've looked
at
the new stoves and none seem to be this large or take long pieces of wood
like this one does. It's a great stove and I want to do whatever I need to
to save it.

If you mean that, get a new piece made and replace cracked component.

"Stacey" wrote in message
...
I have a nice large jotul model 118 box stove that recently
developed a
small crack on the exteriour cast top surface.

Maybe it's trying to tell you it is time to replace it with a
modern "certified" stove. You'll get more heat out of your wood
with a lot less pollution.

Bob

Larry Caldwell wrote in message
k.net...
(Rod Speed) wrote

I'd weld or solder it myself.

Solder would probably melt back out with a hot fire, but he could
braze it. Brazing is the traditional way of mending cast iron.

Yeah, thats what I meant. Wasnt sure how international
that term was and was too lazy to check.

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 15:14:18 GMT, Larry Caldwell
wrote:

===In article , (Rod
===Speed) says...
===
=== I'd weld or solder it myself.
===
===Solder would probably melt back out with a hot fire, but he could braze
===it. Brazing is the traditional way of mending cast iron.


Well I would class it more as the easiest way to patch it back up,
without having to do a lot of prep and preheat and stress relief
afterwards......but brazing is still not anywhere near as welding it
up with the proper rod....but a brazed joint other than being a
different color is actually stronger than the parent material (grey
castiron) itself.......cast iron is approx 40,000 PSI tensile where a
braze with proper rod is in the neighbnorhood of 60 to 70,000.

To me, even if its only to serve a functional use, and aestehetics is
not a concern, I would still probably weld it, as there is just
something about that brass color up against a nice cast iron part for
some reason or other.

I would not say the cast iron is worn out, as much as its a natural
tendency for cast iron to obey the laws of physics, even if you don't
know them. It expands and contracts a geat deal and bing so grainy in
structure its a given it can crack, from excess heat or cold or rapid
temp changes or a shock.

When brazing or fusion welding CI temperature controls the outcome. It
requires preheat if the job is to be done right and last, and a good
bare nickle rod, with an O/A torch, and a slow proper cool down and
stress relief or possible anneal afterwards, even if its brazed this
is still the acepted process.

OH, they make an item that will repair it simply by drilling a few
holes, inserting some type of fastener, and lacing it...I think its
called stitch weld or lock weld and from what I hear from folks if
your not interesed in how it looks its as strong as a properly welded
repair when done properly. Personally I never liked what the stuff
looks like but its still an option, though I have used an embedded key
to repair cracks in cast iron but unless you have machine shop
capability it would be pretty expensive, but it does work and works
great.

Having a pattern made or having a repro cast can be pretty expensive
as well........do you know anyone that has a back yard foundry and can
handle cast iron.......they may be able to do it.
Visit my website: http://www.frugalmachinist.com
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In article ,
(Roy) says...

To me, even if its only to serve a functional use, and aestehetics is
not a concern, I would still probably weld it, as there is just
something about that brass color up against a nice cast iron part for
some reason or other.

With this one, since the crack closes up when the stove is cool, he can
just take the top off and braze the inside. Nobody would ever see it.
If the flux did its job perfectly, at the most it would be a hairline of
brass on the top.

--
http://home.teleport.com/~larryc

Stacey posted on that vast internet thingie:

Also think I'll flip this
top around so the 'cracked' end is less heated by the fire.

From what you say I get the impression that the part is removable.
Have you contacted the manufacturer to see what a replacement part
would cost OR if they might consider it a defect and send you a
replacement as a courtesy? Ask the right person nicely enough and you
might be pleasantly surprised.

Steve at SELLCOM

--
http://www.sellcom.com
Discount multihandset cordless phones by Panasonic AT&T,
5.8Ghz 2line; TMC ET4000 4line Epic phone, OnHoldPlus, Watchguard!
Brick wall "non MOV" surge protection. Firewood splitters www.splitlogs.com
If you sit at a desk www.ergochair.biz you owe it to yourself.

Larry Caldwell wrote:

In article ,
(Roy) says...

To me, even if its only to serve a functional use, and aestehetics is
not a concern, I would still probably weld it, as there is just
something about that brass color up against a nice cast iron part for
some reason or other.

With this one, since the crack closes up when the stove is cool, he can
just take the top off and braze the inside. Nobody would ever see it.
If the flux did its job perfectly, at the most it would be a hairline of
brass on the top.



OK from what I've read here, does removing the top, glass beading the area
to be brazed, drill a small hole at the end of the crack and brazing it all
up on the inside sound like it would work?

I didn't think about the metal strap expanding at a different rate than the
cast would. Would the braze expand at a different rate and cause problems?
I'm skeptical of welding from bad past experiences with them recracking
right next to the weld on other cast parts like automotive cylinder heads..


Thanx for all the advice so far.

And for people questioning this stove as being a polluter, it's as efficient
as many modern "clean" stoves are if used correctly.

ttp://hearth.com/questions/qa1433.html

http://hearth.com/questions/qa2090.html

The other thing I like is it takes full length logs which many newer ones
I've seen don't. I don't like ones with glass either, just something to
break and need cleaning. If I have to, I'd rather get a new top cast than
spend money on a "pretty" stove that doesn't heat as well. This guy heats
my 1500Sq ft house with no problem.
--

Stacey

Stacey wrote in message
...

OK from what I've read here, does removing
the top, glass beading the area to be brazed,

You dont need to do that, thats what the flux is for.

drill a small hole at the end of the crack

You dont need to do that either, thats what's
done if you just want to stop the crack extending
and dont plan to weld or braze the crack.

and brazing it all up on the inside sound like it would work?

Yep, that will certainly work.

I didn't think about the metal strap expanding at a
different rate than the cast would. Would the braze
expand at a different rate and cause problems?

Nope, you use a braze metal thats compatible with the cast iron.

I'm skeptical of welding from bad past experiences with them recracking
right next to the weld on other cast parts like automotive cylinder heads..

Different environment, should be fine
for the heater top, but brazing is fine too.

Thanx for all the advice so far.

And for people questioning this stove as being a polluter, it's as
efficient as many modern "clean" stoves are if used correctly.

http://hearth.com/questions/qa1433.html
http://hearth.com/questions/qa2090.html

The other thing I like is it takes full length
logs which many newer ones I've seen don't.

Yeah, handy to have.

I don't like ones with glass either, just
something to break and need cleaning.

Yeah, bit pointless to me too.

If I have to, I'd rather get a new top cast than spend
money on a "pretty" stove that doesn't heat as well.
This guy heats my 1500Sq ft house with no problem.

Brazing will work fine.

If its welded properly it should work. If an item cracks next to where
it was welded the item was not preheated sufficiently to the right
temp to start. If the weld cracked itself it was allowed to cool to
quick.........Take it to a welder that is familair with the proper
process to braze or weld cast iron and you should not have
problems.take it to a jack leg that has brazed cast iron in the past
with mixed results and its anyones guess if it will hold or not.

On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 20:43:58 -0500, Stacey wrote:

===Larry Caldwell wrote:
===
=== In article ,
=== (Roy) says...
===
=== To me, even if its only to serve a functional use, and aestehetics is
=== not a concern, I would still probably weld it, as there is just
=== something about that brass color up against a nice cast iron part for
=== some reason or other.
===
=== With this one, since the crack closes up when the stove is cool, he can
=== just take the top off and braze the inside. Nobody would ever see it.
=== If the flux did its job perfectly, at the most it would be a hairline of
=== brass on the top.
===
===
===
===OK from what I've read here, does removing the top, glass beading the area
===to be brazed, drill a small hole at the end of the crack and brazing it all
===up on the inside sound like it would work?
===
===I didn't think about the metal strap expanding at a different rate than the
===cast would. Would the braze expand at a different rate and cause problems?
===I'm skeptical of welding from bad past experiences with them recracking
===right next to the weld on other cast parts like automotive cylinder heads..
===
===
===Thanx for all the advice so far.
===
===And for people questioning this stove as being a polluter, it's as efficient
===as many modern "clean" stoves are if used correctly.
===
===ttp://hearth.com/questions/qa1433.html
===
===http://hearth.com/questions/qa2090.html
===
===The other thing I like is it takes full length logs which many newer ones
===I've seen don't. I don't like ones with glass either, just something to
===break and need cleaning. If I have to, I'd rather get a new top cast than
===spend money on a "pretty" stove that doesn't heat as well. This guy heats
===my 1500Sq ft house with no problem.

Visit my website: http://www.frugalmachinist.com
Opinions expressed are those of my wife,
I had no input whatsoever.
Remove "nospam" from email addy.

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 02:30:45 -0500, Stacey wrote:

TIA for any help or advice.

After stopping the crack by drilling two small holes, would you
consider having a piece of plate steel cut to the shape of the top and
then just place on top of the stove? I'm sure you could come up with a
way to secure it to the stove.

Rod Speed wrote:



If I have to, I'd rather get a new top cast than spend
money on a "pretty" stove that doesn't heat as well.
This guy heats my 1500Sq ft house with no problem.

Brazing will work fine.

Thanx, I'll ask around and find someone who knows what's up with doing this
correctly. I should be able to find someone in Atlanta that knows how to do
this right.. I've done lots of brazing/welding in the past but never on
cast iron, I'm not going to practice on this!
--

Stacey

Stacey wrote in
message ...
Rod Speed wrote:

If I have to, I'd rather get a new top cast than spend
money on a "pretty" stove that doesn't heat as well.
This guy heats my 1500Sq ft house with no problem.

Brazing will work fine.

Thanx, I'll ask around and find someone who
knows what's up with doing this correctly.

Yeah, very important if you are going to weld it, preheating is important.

Thats why the cylinder head welding failed, that wasnt done properly.

Even brazing isnt a terrific idea to learn on something like that.

I should be able to find someone in Atlanta that knows how
to do this right.. I've done lots of brazing/welding in the past

OK, didnt realise that.

but never on cast iron, I'm not going to practice on this!

Yeah, that would be mad given that its not easy to replace.

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 14:29:05 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:

===
===Stacey wrote in message
...
===
=== OK from what I've read here, does removing
snip
=== drill a small hole at the end of the crack
===
===You dont need to do that either, thats what's
===done if you just want to stop the crack extending
===and dont plan to weld or braze the crack.
snip

Its common practice to alieviate any potential of stress that is
remaining in cast items, and drilling a stop crack hole is the only
way to stop propagation of a crack. If it was steel I may bypass on
the stop crack hole but in a cast item, or a piece that as stress its
a bit of extra insurance , and like I stated standard welding protocol
900 to 1200 deg is the bll park for cast iron preheat, not able to be
done i n any typical cook stovce, and needs to be done by an
experieinced welder for best results. .

===
=== I don't like ones with glass either, just
=== something to break and need cleaning.
===
===Yeah, bit pointless to me too.
===

First its not glass........usually fireplace screens have pyrex, yes
thats a type of glass but a wood stove does not have glass. Its a
clear ceramic material commonly kown as Robax.........Look it up. It
will withshatnd much higher temperatures than cast iron will, and as
for breaking, its probably as strong as cast iron and a lot of other
materials even if hot. Its rare that these Robax panels ever break, as
yu really have to go out of your way to break them..

I have seen demonstrations of this stuff where its heated to over
5,000 degress, and imediately dunked in a bucket of ice water, or have
a bowling ball on a chain swung into it in ice cold and super hot
conditions, and not suffer any damages.As to cleaning, its a
snap......no big hassle involved, no worse than cleaning a regular old
window.......It does add a nice aesthtic look and does radiate more
heat than a solid metal panel does, but does not retain heat as much
as a solid panel, but odds are its an even trade off.......with
radiated heat vers heat holding.
snip

Visit my website: http://www.frugalmachinist.com
Opinions expressed are those of my wife,
I had no input whatsoever.
Remove "nospam" from email addy.

In article ,
(Roy) says...

If its welded properly it should work. If an item cracks next to where
it was welded the item was not preheated sufficiently to the right
temp to start. If the weld cracked itself it was allowed to cool to
quick.........Take it to a welder that is familair with the proper
process to braze or weld cast iron and you should not have
problems.take it to a jack leg that has brazed cast iron in the past
with mixed results and its anyones guess if it will hold or not.

At a guess, you could figure out if the job is going to be done right
just by checking out the equipment. I have a propane weed burner that
will preheat small pieces of iron, but I doubt it would be big enough to
do a stove top. I suspect it would take a really big burner, or perhaps
a large forge. If I were forced to do it myself, I would probably build
a really big oak bonfire and wait until it had burned to coals. I will
leave horsing a 1000 degree stove top out of a bonfire as an exercise
for the imagination.

--
http://home.teleport.com/~larryc

Stacey wrote:
Rod Speed wrote:



If I have to, I'd rather get a new top cast than spend
money on a "pretty" stove that doesn't heat as well.
This guy heats my 1500Sq ft house with no problem.

Brazing will work fine.


Thanx, I'll ask around and find someone who knows what's up with doing this
correctly. I should be able to find someone in Atlanta that knows how to do
this right.. I've done lots of brazing/welding in the past but never on
cast iron, I'm not going to practice on this!


I have the same model Jotul and I can vouch for how good a stove it is.
Keep in mind that while Jotul has not made that model for quite a while
the Norwegians/Scandanavians were way ahead of the US in the woodstove
technology curve. In other words, that model stove is still a decently
efficient stove for today. I particularly like the model because I can
put some wood in at night and it is still cranking out the heat when I
wake up 8 hours later. US woodstove from that era were nowhere near that.

Rob
NE PA

Roy wrote in message
...
Rod Speed wrote
Stacey wrote

drill a small hole at the end of the crack

You dont need to do that either, thats what's
done if you just want to stop the crack extending
and dont plan to weld or braze the crack.


Its common practice to alieviate any potential of stress
that is remaining in cast items, and drilling a stop crack
hole is the only way to stop propagation of a crack.

Thats just plain wrong, both welding and brazing the crack do that.

There is no need for the hole when you weld or braze the crack.

If it was steel I may bypass on the stop crack hole but in a
cast item, or a piece that as stress its a bit of extra insurance

Nope, because the crack cant propagate once its welded or brazed.

and like I stated standard welding protocol 900 to 1200
deg is the bll park for cast iron preheat, not able to be
done i n any typical cook stovce, and needs to be done
by an experieinced welder for best results.

Sure.

I don't like ones with glass either, just
something to break and need cleaning.

Yeah, bit pointless to me too.

First its not glass........ usually fireplace screens have pyrex, yes
thats a type of glass but a wood stove does not have glass. Its a
clear ceramic material commonly kown as Robax.........Look it up.

Near enough. What was being discussed was whether
there is much point in using something transparent.

It will withshatnd much higher temperatures than cast iron will, and
as for breaking, its probably as strong as cast iron and a lot of other
materials even if hot. Its rare that these Robax panels ever break, as
yu really have to go out of your way to break them..

Dunno, any ceramic is more brittle than cast iron. Yes, the wood isnt going
to break it, but a metal spanner etc for the door might if you are careless.
And thats a general comment, not necessarily specific for the Jotul because
what was being discussed was replacing the Jotul there.

I have seen demonstrations of this stuff where its heated to
over 5,000 degress, and imediately dunked in a bucket of ice
water, or have a bowling ball on a chain swung into it in ice
cold and super hot conditions, and not suffer any damages.

Try whacking it with the spanner used for the door with some stoves.

As to cleaning, its a snap......no big hassle involved,
no worse than cleaning a regular old window.......

But is obviously more effort than cast iron
there that doesnt need cleaning at all.

It does add a nice aesthtic look

I dont agree.

and does radiate more heat than a solid metal panel
does, but does not retain heat as much as a solid
panel, but odds are its an even trade off.......with
radiated heat vers heat holding.

And you're anally hair splitting when its not there for that.

"Roy" wrote in message
...

First its not glass........usually fireplace screens have pyrex, yes
thats a type of glass but a wood stove does not have glass. Its a
clear ceramic material commonly kown as Robax.........Look it up. It
will withshatnd much higher temperatures than cast iron will, and as
for breaking, its probably as strong as cast iron and a lot of other
materials even if hot. Its rare that these Robax panels ever break, as
yu really have to go out of your way to break them..

I have seen demonstrations of this stuff where its heated to over
5,000 degress, and imediately dunked in a bucket of ice water, or have
a bowling ball on a chain swung into it in ice cold and super hot
conditions, and not suffer any damages.As to cleaning, its a
snap......no big hassle involved, no worse than cleaning a regular old
window.......It does add a nice aesthtic look and does radiate more
heat than a solid metal panel does, but does not retain heat as much
as a solid panel, but odds are its an even trade off.......with
radiated heat vers heat holding.


Besides, if the original poster, as stated, truly doesn't care about how the
thing looks, there's no need to ever clean the transparent parts.

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 20:08:10 -0500, "Lou"
wrote:

===
==="Roy" wrote in message
. net...
===
=== First its not glass........usually fireplace screens have pyrex, yes
=== thats a type of glass but a wood stove does not have glass. Its a
=== clear ceramic material commonly kown as Robax.........Look it up. It
=== will withshatnd much higher temperatures than cast iron will, and as
=== for breaking, its probably as strong as cast iron and a lot of other
=== materials even if hot. Its rare that these Robax panels ever break, as
=== yu really have to go out of your way to break them..
===
=== I have seen demonstrations of this stuff where its heated to over
=== 5,000 degress, and imediately dunked in a bucket of ice water, or have
=== a bowling ball on a chain swung into it in ice cold and super hot
=== conditions, and not suffer any damages.As to cleaning, its a
=== snap......no big hassle involved, no worse than cleaning a regular old
=== window.......It does add a nice aesthtic look and does radiate more
=== heat than a solid metal panel does, but does not retain heat as much
=== as a solid panel, but odds are its an even trade off.......with
=== radiated heat vers heat holding.
===
===
===Besides, if the original poster, as stated, truly doesn't care about how the
===thing looks, there's no need to ever clean the transparent parts.
===


Yep, just because its transparent doe snot mean you have ot clean
it,.....for the most part it will stay clean wif its working right and
a you keep a good fire in it.......mine stays relatively clean and on
the times it may get smooked up once the draft is turned up it just
burns off.......
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Post this on one of the welding groups. That stove can be welded. The
guys there can tell you how. Or maybe one welder is close to you and can
do it.
snews://netnews.worldnet.att.net:563/sci.engr.joining.welding
sci.engr.joining.welding
Try there.
John
Stacey wrote:

I have a nice large jotul model 118 box stove that recently developed a
small crack on the exteriour cast top surface. This is a cast iron piece
and the crack only appears when the stove is really going good. It's more
of a hairline type crack that, like I said, is only visible when it's
really cranking out some heat when first started, is just -barely- wide
enough to see a bit of light though at the widest point on the edge and is
about 3-4 inches long. Once the stove settles down to a good burn, the
crack closes back up and I can't even see it. It's on the front edge and I
think it happened when I spilled some water trying to fill the tea kettle
that stays on top of it. Below is a link showing what this stove looks
like.

http://jotulflame.com/box.html


My question, I know welding cast iron is basically a waste of time. I'm
thinking of drilling and tapping some (shallow?) holes to bolt a piece of
heavy strap metal along this edge to keep this crack from opening up and
getting worse. Does this sound like a good idea? Also think I'll flip this
top around so the 'cracked' end is less heated by the fire. Or should I
just flip it around and see if the crack stops opening up? I don't think
any sort of sealer is going to work as the crack opens and closes with
heat. It doesn't smoke out of it or anything, I just don't want it to
spead. I know drilling the end of a crack helps stop them from spreading
but I hate to drill a hole -through- the top and maybe cause worse problems
if the strap would hold it closed.

I use this to heat my house so looks aren't that important, functionality is
and I don't want it to crack any worse as right now it's still very
useable. I have tried to source a new top but it doesn't seem to be in
production anymore and hasn't been for 20 years. Anyone know where to buy
parts for an old Jotul wood stove? I read you can have new pieces cast at a
foundry, anyone ever done this and have an idea of the cost? I've looked at
the new stoves and none seem to be this large or take long pieces of wood
like this one does. It's a great stove and I want to do whatever I need to
to save it.

TIA for any help or advice.