Stacey wrote in message
...

OK from what I've read here, does removing
the top, glass beading the area to be brazed,

You dont need to do that, thats what the flux is for.

drill a small hole at the end of the crack

You dont need to do that either, thats what's
done if you just want to stop the crack extending
and dont plan to weld or braze the crack.

and brazing it all up on the inside sound like it would work?

Yep, that will certainly work.

I didn't think about the metal strap expanding at a
different rate than the cast would. Would the braze
expand at a different rate and cause problems?

Nope, you use a braze metal thats compatible with the cast iron.

I'm skeptical of welding from bad past experiences with them recracking
right next to the weld on other cast parts like automotive cylinder heads..

Different environment, should be fine
for the heater top, but brazing is fine too.

Thanx for all the advice so far.

And for people questioning this stove as being a polluter, it's as
efficient as many modern "clean" stoves are if used correctly.

http://hearth.com/questions/qa1433.html
http://hearth.com/questions/qa2090.html

The other thing I like is it takes full length
logs which many newer ones I've seen don't.

Yeah, handy to have.

I don't like ones with glass either, just
something to break and need cleaning.

Yeah, bit pointless to me too.

If I have to, I'd rather get a new top cast than spend
money on a "pretty" stove that doesn't heat as well.
This guy heats my 1500Sq ft house with no problem.

Brazing will work fine.