Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to use either 1/4-inch lauan
or hardboard as underlayment for 3/4-inch oak flooring strips
(nailed)? The subfloor is 3/4-inch OSB with somewhat rough, uneven
surface and hardened glue in some places, which is why I want to put
down an underlayment to provide a more even surface for the finish
floor. I know I could use 1/4-inch plywood, but that is a little more
expensive than both the lauan and the hardboard. But if there's a good
reason not to use one or both then I will spend the extra money for
the plywood to ensure a solid installation. Also, what is the
recommended way of attaching 1/4-inch underlayment to the OSB
subfloor? I think the 7/8-inch staples I already have would be the
quickest - is that okay? Thanks!

On Apr 23, 9:47 pm, wrote:
Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to use either 1/4-inch lauan
or hardboard as underlayment for 3/4-inch oak flooring strips
(nailed)? The subfloor is 3/4-inch OSB with somewhat rough, uneven
surface and hardened glue in some places, which is why I want to put
down an underlayment to provide a more even surface for the finish
floor. I know I could use 1/4-inch plywood, but that is a little more
expensive than both the lauan and the hardboard. But if there's a good
reason not to use one or both then I will spend the extra money for
the plywood to ensure a solid installation. Also, what is the
recommended way of attaching 1/4-inch underlayment to the OSB
subfloor? I think the 7/8-inch staples I already have would be the
quickest - is that okay? Thanks!

Perhaps a floor installer will chime in, but in the mean time, I have
glued bamboo to the floor in my slab house. Floor leveler is
recomended even for wood subfloors I belive to even out joints, low
spots, etc.. I would not go to the trouble and expense of using lauan
or hardboard, in fact I doubt you would get near the nail retention
you would just with the OSB.

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/f...k1/stapled.htm

http://www.osbguide.com/pdfs/EL813.pdf

I found these pages on a quick search, you can do the same :!)

wrote in message
ups.com...
Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to use either 1/4-inch lauan
or hardboard as underlayment for 3/4-inch oak flooring strips
(nailed)? The subfloor is 3/4-inch OSB with somewhat rough, uneven
surface and hardened glue in some places, which is why I want to put
down an underlayment to provide a more even surface for the finish
floor. I know I could use 1/4-inch plywood, but that is a little more
expensive than both the lauan and the hardboard. But if there's a good
reason not to use one or both then I will spend the extra money for
the plywood to ensure a solid installation. Also, what is the
recommended way of attaching 1/4-inch underlayment to the OSB
subfloor? I think the 7/8-inch staples I already have would be the
quickest - is that okay? Thanks!


Save your money. 1/4" anything will not add any appreciable strength to the
floor unless you glued and screwed it in place to achieve a complete bond
across the entire surface. Staples would be the worst fastener to use,
followed closely by overdriven gun nails. The plywood will span lumps worse
than 3/4" flooring strips. Your chances of floor squeaks will increase
significantly. And the normal staples used to install the strip flooring
will perform worse through the 1/4" material.
Get out a hammer and wide chisel and knock off the glue and any other glop
on the floor. Drive down any proud nail heads. Chisel down any swelled
joints. Use a thick underlayment paper like heavy felt. And run the flooring
perpendicular to the floor joists regardless of any aesthetic
considerations.
The hardwood floor manufacturers association has never recommended
installing hardwood strip floor over OSB plywood due to poor fastener grip.
The engineered products like Adventec are approved, but not true OSB
plywood. But this defect could be overcome by using extra fasteners.

On Apr 24, 1:50 am, scott wrote:
On Apr 23, 9:47 pm, wrote:

Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to use either 1/4-inch lauan
or hardboard as underlayment for 3/4-inch oak flooring strips
(nailed)? The subfloor is 3/4-inch OSB with somewhat rough, uneven
surface and hardened glue in some places, which is why I want to put
down an underlayment to provide a more even surface for the finish
floor. I know I could use 1/4-inch plywood, but that is a little more
expensive than both the lauan and the hardboard. But if there's a good
reason not to use one or both then I will spend the extra money for
the plywood to ensure a solid installation. Also, what is the
recommended way of attaching 1/4-inch underlayment to the OSB
subfloor? I think the 7/8-inch staples I already have would be the
quickest - is that okay? Thanks!

Perhaps a floor installer will chime in, but in the mean time, I have
glued bamboo to the floor in my slab house. Floor leveler is
recomended even for wood subfloors I belive to even out joints, low
spots, etc.. I would not go to the trouble and expense of using lauan
or hardboard, in fact I doubt you would get near the nail retention
you would just with the OSB.

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/f...k1/stapled.htm

http://www.osbguide.com/pdfs/EL813.pdf

I found these pages on a quick search, you can do the same :!)

For a nail down hardwood strip floor, I don't see the value in adding
underlayment. Even out your existing subfloor as best you can with a
scraper and belt sander and go with that. Many, many old houses have
hardwood strip floors put down over very nasty shiplap, and these
floors are fine. Use 30 pound felt as an underlayment to pad the
irregularities.

TVeblen wrote:


wrote in message
ups.com...
Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to use either 1/4-inch lauan
or hardboard as underlayment for 3/4-inch oak flooring strips
(nailed)? The subfloor is 3/4-inch OSB with somewhat rough, uneven
surface and hardened glue in some places, which is why I want to put
down an underlayment to provide a more even surface for the finish
floor. I know I could use 1/4-inch plywood, but that is a little
more expensive than both the lauan and the hardboard. But if
there's a good reason not to use one or both then I will spend the
extra money for the plywood to ensure a solid installation. Also,
what is the recommended way of attaching 1/4-inch underlayment to
the OSB subfloor? I think the 7/8-inch staples I already have would
be the quickest - is that okay? Thanks!


Save your money. 1/4" anything will not add any appreciable strength
to the floor unless you glued and screwed it in place to achieve a
complete bond across the entire surface. Staples would be the worst
fastener to use, followed closely by overdriven gun nails. The
plywood will span lumps worse than 3/4" flooring strips. Your chances
of floor squeaks will increase significantly. And the normal staples
used to install the strip flooring will perform worse through the
1/4" material. Get out a hammer and wide chisel and knock off the
glue and any other glop on the floor. Drive down any proud nail
heads. Chisel down any swelled joints. Use a thick underlayment paper
like heavy felt. And run the flooring perpendicular to the floor
joists regardless of any aesthetic considerations. The hardwood
floor manufacturers association has never recommended installing
hardwood strip floor over OSB plywood due to poor fastener grip. The
engineered products like Adventec are approved, but not true OSB
plywood. But this defect could be overcome by using extra fasteners.

Make sure that the underlayment paper is not bituminuim based , in hot
areas its been known to stick the floors together , the floors need to
have an expansion facility thats independant of each other

--

On Apr 23, 9:47 pm, wrote:
Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to use either 1/4-inch lauan
or hardboard as underlayment for 3/4-inch oak flooring strips
(nailed)? The subfloor is 3/4-inch OSB with somewhat rough, uneven
surface and hardened glue in some places, which is why I want to put
down an underlayment to provide a more even surface for the finish
floor. I know I could use 1/4-inch plywood, but that is a little more
expensive than both the lauan and the hardboard. But if there's a good
reason not to use one or both then I will spend the extra money for
the plywood to ensure a solid installation. Also, what is the
recommended way of attaching 1/4-inch underlayment to the OSB
subfloor? I think the 7/8-inch staples I already have would be the
quickest - is that okay? Thanks!


At this moment, I'm installing 2-1/4 X 3/4 on 3/4 OSB and it too is
somewhat rough....meaning that there are slight differences from the
procuct and when the rain swamped the house when it was open. The
installation is going well, and it's extremely solid once down. I
don't believe you would be adding any benefit with the 1/4". It would
be smoother, but that's also 5/16 or so less staple or nail that hits
the sub floor. Also keep in mind that 1/4 will not mask any
inperfections with humps and bumps.

Rent belt sander from the renal store, and run it over the OSB knock
off the high spots like near the seams, don't use it on the glue
bumps, it melts into the belt (DAMHIKT). Take a sharp chisle and cut
the glue globs off. If it's too hard, add some heat from a heat gun,
it'll soften right up.

Good luck, I hope you have a strong back ;-)

DAC

On Apr 23, 9:47 pm, wrote:
Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to use either 1/4-inch lauan
or hardboard as underlayment for 3/4-inch oak flooring strips
(nailed)? The subfloor is 3/4-inch OSB with somewhat rough, uneven
surface and hardened glue in some places, which is why I want to put
down an underlayment to provide a more even surface for the finish
floor. I know I could use 1/4-inch plywood, but that is a little more
expensive than both the lauan and the hardboard. But if there's a good
reason not to use one or both then I will spend the extra money for
the plywood to ensure a solid installation. Also, what is the
recommended way of attaching 1/4-inch underlayment to the OSB
subfloor? I think the 7/8-inch staples I already have would be the
quickest - is that okay? Thanks!

Wouldn't it be a whole lot easier to just pull up the crumble board
and put down some decent plywood? The nail holding power would improve
a bunch and the subfloor (with care) could be dead level. Door bottoms
would not have to be shortened and there may be other advantages as
well, like no squeaks, less bounce, etc. Just wondering...

Joe

On Apr 24, 7:52 am, DAC wrote:
On Apr 23, 9:47 pm, wrote:

Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to use either 1/4-inch lauan
or hardboard as underlayment for 3/4-inch oak flooring strips
(nailed)? The subfloor is 3/4-inch OSB with somewhat rough, uneven
surface and hardened glue in some places, which is why I want to put
down an underlayment to provide a more even surface for the finish
floor. I know I could use 1/4-inch plywood, but that is a little more
expensive than both the lauan and the hardboard. But if there's a good
reason not to use one or both then I will spend the extra money for
the plywood to ensure a solid installation. Also, what is the
recommended way of attaching 1/4-inch underlayment to the OSB
subfloor? I think the 7/8-inch staples I already have would be the
quickest - is that okay? Thanks!

At this moment, I'm installing 2-1/4 X 3/4 on 3/4 OSB and it too is
somewhat rough....meaning that there are slight differences from the
procuct and when the rain swamped the house when it was open. The
installation is going well, and it's extremely solid once down. I
don't believe you would be adding any benefit with the 1/4". It would
be smoother, but that's also 5/16 or so less staple or nail that hits
the sub floor. Also keep in mind that 1/4 will not mask any
inperfections with humps and bumps.

Rent belt sander from the renal store, and run it over the OSB knock
off the high spots like near the seams, don't use it on the glue
bumps, it melts into the belt (DAMHIKT). Take a sharp chisle and cut
the glue globs off. If it's too hard, add some heat from a heat gun,
it'll soften right up.

Good luck, I hope you have a strong back ;-)

DAC

You can also use a bondo sort of thing to bring up low spots and
smooth transitions. I'm not sure if its the same as concrete leveler
I used on my slab, but definately faster than a belt sander and helps
on low spots to keep it from sounding hollow or "springing" as you
walk over a low section and possibly causing nails to loosen and
squeaks to form.

Here's a trick - I made a large floor level out of a 12" rip of
plywood for the whole 8' length, drilled two holes in it and clamped a
4' level on top of it, also put a 18" Tee thing on the end to hold it
upright. That will show you where you need to work the subfloor.
Installing the actual flooring goes pretty fast, but the work to level
the floor is the most important and time consuming - at least on
concrete. I rated my floor job a 10 on a scale of 1-10 in terms of
difficulty, because my slab was not very level and had a high spot I
had to chisel or grind down - or buy about 40 bags of leveler to get
the rest up to that level ( and each bag is like $30).