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#1
Posted to alt.home.lawn.garden,alt.home.repair,misc.consumers.house
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Tree Root Problem
I wondered how something like that might work (a diversionary concept
to draw the roots away from the slab). In the experience of those of you who have cut these roots, was an axe the best approach? On 13 Aug 2006 19:33:21 -0700, "Alan" wrote: 15' from the slab? That's not too close. Ask an arborist to be sure, but a clean cut along one side of the tree may be OK. At that distance from the trunk, regardless of tree, one foot or so down into the soil won't cut the life of an otherwise healthy tree. Our Magnolia, a tree that doens't mind having it's roots pruned, is closer to the slab than that and we cut plenty of roots any which way we could before trenching in the patio edge. Then we put a used brick patio right up to the trunk on one side. The tree seems to be doing pretty well this summer of incredible heat. In our case, we replaced the slab patio altogether. Outside the foundation barrier footer and patio edge, I cut the roots back and down a couple of feet and gently slope toward the trunk, trying to avoid major roots as I got closer to the tree. I then filled in a few yards of pea gravel and a drain pipe system to draw the patio water away to a deep dry well well away from the patio. I layered soil fabric over the pea grave, some road base, tamped into the slope I wanted, and then puzzled in the used brick that I had accumulated over the previous two years (It's amazing what amounts of brick is tossed by the roadside in places). I broomed sand into the cracks between bricks that weren't spaced. Some people recommended mixing the sand with some portland cement, but I didn't want the grey look this gives to the brick. If the base is solid, cement isn't necessary. Along the lawn edge, I put in flush some old 8x8 redwood railroad ties, but treated ties are easier to find in most places. This winter the patio drained well enough, the tree seems pretty happy, the excellent underground drainage of the pea gravel should discourage larger tree roots from forming there for awhile. John Lawrence wrote: Planting a tree is like getting a new puppy. Few of us can visualize what it will be like at maturity. :-) "Eggs Zachtly" wrote in message ... cover said: Many thanks to all of you for your replies. Appreciate that very much. The tree is a fairly healthy size maple tree and the trunk is approximately 15' from the slab. A trencher just might be the easiest approach. Any thoughts on using an axe versus some sort of root saw if a person doesn't want to bring great harm to the tree. It's fairly mature and I hate to damage it too significantly but at the same time, have property to protect. |
#2
Posted to alt.home.lawn.garden,alt.home.repair,misc.consumers.house
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Tree Root Problem
cover wrote: I wondered how something like that might work (a diversionary concept to draw the roots away from the slab). In the experience of those of you who have cut these roots, was an axe the best approach? Don't try a chainsaw. The blade will last only about 15 seconds until it is totally dull. That happens even if the dirt is dug out fairly well. All it takes is a momentary touch to kill the blade. |
#3
Posted to alt.home.lawn.garden,alt.home.repair,misc.consumers.house
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Tree Root Problem
On Mon, 14 Aug 2006 11:05:34 -0400, Stubby
wrote: Don't try a chainsaw. The blade will last only about 15 seconds until it is totally dull. That happens even if the dirt is dug out fairly well. All it takes is a momentary touch to kill the blade. Yeah, I was thinking about that one too where my chainsaw is concerned. Another killer incidentally is railroad ties. :-) I was thinking about using an axe (though they can be spooky devils to work with). |
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