Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Old February 17th 21, 09:58 PM posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Oct 2020
Posts: 15
Default Curved Samsung no pic

Hi Group, can someone help please, im working on a Samsung un55ku650dfxzaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when testing the PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend says they're supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps read 395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously,

  #2   Report Post  
Old February 18th 21, 06:02 PM posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Aug 2020
Posts: 54
Default Curved Samsung no pic

On Wednesday, February 17, 2021 at 3:59:00 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Hi Group, can someone help please, im working on a Samsung un55ku650dfxzaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when testing the PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend says they're supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps read 395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously,


Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply. With the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-run when AC is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights should turn on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likely a bad main, but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If the back lights don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics near the LED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display.
  #3   Report Post  
Old February 18th 21, 11:39 PM posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Oct 2020
Posts: 15
Default Curved Samsung no pic

On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 12:02:55 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wednesday, February 17, 2021 at 3:59:00 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Hi Group, can someone help please, im working on a Samsung un55ku650dfxzaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when testing the PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend says they're supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps read 395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously,

Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply. With the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-run when AC is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights should turn on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likely a bad main, but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If the back lights don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics near the LED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display.



I Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply, no backlights, still erratic voltages on pins 3,5,7,9.. and also erratic on the caps near the led connector, no where near the voltage you said, more like 106v down to 90v..
  #4   Report Post  
Old February 19th 21, 01:04 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Aug 2020
Posts: 54
Default Curved Samsung no pic

On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 5:39:46 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 12:02:55 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wednesday, February 17, 2021 at 3:59:00 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Hi Group, can someone help please, im working on a Samsung un55ku650dfxzaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when testing the PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend says they're supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps read 395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously,

Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply. With the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-run when AC is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights should turn on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likely a bad main, but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If the back lights don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics near the LED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display.

I Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply, no backlights, still erratic voltages on pins 3,5,7,9.. and also erratic on the caps near the led connector, no where near the voltage you said, more like 106v down to 90v..



Disconnect the LEDs from the power supply and leave the main disconnected, plug in the AC. If the voltages return, an LED burned through and shorted to the metal backed LED strip which is now shorted to the backside of the display "chassis". You can try reconnecting the LED harness and physically float the power supply board off the back pan (you want to isolate it from cold ground) by putting it in a shallow cardboard box or put a heavy blanket between the board and the chassis. The LEDs might light, but if they do, there will be a 300V potential between the now floating ground connections of the power supply and the cold chassis ground, so be careful not to get whacked. If it works, do not be tempted to permanently float the power board off the chassis because reconnecting to the main will ground it again...

If the voltages still stay down after disconnecting the LEDs and the main, replace the supply.

  #5   Report Post  
Old February 19th 21, 07:09 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Oct 2020
Posts: 15
Default Curved Samsung no pic

On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 7:04:27 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 5:39:46 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 12:02:55 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wednesday, February 17, 2021 at 3:59:00 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Hi Group, can someone help please, im working on a Samsung un55ku650dfxzaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when testing the PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend says they're supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps read 395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously,
Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply. With the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-run when AC is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights should turn on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likely a bad main, but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If the back lights don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics near the LED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display.

I Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply, no backlights, still erratic voltages on pins 3,5,7,9.. and also erratic on the caps near the led connector, no where near the voltage you said, more like 106v down to 90v..

Disconnect the LEDs from the power supply and leave the main disconnected, plug in the AC. If the voltages return, an LED burned through and shorted to the metal backed LED strip which is now shorted to the backside of the display "chassis". You can try reconnecting the LED harness and physically float the power supply board off the back pan (you want to isolate it from cold ground) by putting it in a shallow cardboard box or put a heavy blanket between the board and the chassis. The LEDs might light, but if they do, there will be a 300V potential between the now floating ground connections of the power supply and the cold chassis ground, so be careful not to get whacked. If it works, do not be tempted to permanently float the power board off the chassis because reconnecting to the main will ground it again...

If the voltages still stay down after disconnecting the LEDs and the main, replace the supply.



yep, voltages remained the same. still erratic.. replacing the PS.. Thanks for your help..


  #6   Report Post  
Old February 19th 21, 01:42 PM posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Aug 2020
Posts: 54
Default Curved Samsung no pic

On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 1:09:20 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 7:04:27 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 5:39:46 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 12:02:55 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wednesday, February 17, 2021 at 3:59:00 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Hi Group, can someone help please, im working on a Samsung un55ku650dfxzaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when testing the PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend says they're supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps read 395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously,
Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply. With the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-run when AC is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights should turn on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likely a bad main, but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If the back lights don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics near the LED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display.
I Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply, no backlights, still erratic voltages on pins 3,5,7,9.. and also erratic on the caps near the led connector, no where near the voltage you said, more like 106v down to 90v..

Disconnect the LEDs from the power supply and leave the main disconnected, plug in the AC. If the voltages return, an LED burned through and shorted to the metal backed LED strip which is now shorted to the backside of the display "chassis". You can try reconnecting the LED harness and physically float the power supply board off the back pan (you want to isolate it from cold ground) by putting it in a shallow cardboard box or put a heavy blanket between the board and the chassis. The LEDs might light, but if they do, there will be a 300V potential between the now floating ground connections of the power supply and the cold chassis ground, so be careful not to get whacked. If it works, do not be tempted to permanently float the power board off the chassis because reconnecting to the main will ground it again...

If the voltages still stay down after disconnecting the LEDs and the main, replace the supply.

yep, voltages remained the same. still erratic.. replacing the PS.. Thanks for your help..


I think I have a KU power supply in stock. Let me free run it and check those voltages before you buy a board. Samsung does some weird things on certain models. I'll post later today when I get to work.



  #7   Report Post  
Old February 19th 21, 04:19 PM posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Oct 2020
Posts: 15
Default Curved Samsung no pic

On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 7:42:14 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 1:09:20 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 7:04:27 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 5:39:46 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 12:02:55 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wednesday, February 17, 2021 at 3:59:00 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Hi Group, can someone help please, im working on a Samsung un55ku650dfxzaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when testing the PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend says they're supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps read 395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously,
Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply. With the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-run when AC is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights should turn on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likely a bad main, but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If the back lights don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics near the LED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display.
I Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply, no backlights, still erratic voltages on pins 3,5,7,9.. and also erratic on the caps near the led connector, no where near the voltage you said, more like 106v down to 90v..
Disconnect the LEDs from the power supply and leave the main disconnected, plug in the AC. If the voltages return, an LED burned through and shorted to the metal backed LED strip which is now shorted to the backside of the display "chassis". You can try reconnecting the LED harness and physically float the power supply board off the back pan (you want to isolate it from cold ground) by putting it in a shallow cardboard box or put a heavy blanket between the board and the chassis. The LEDs might light, but if they do, there will be a 300V potential between the now floating ground connections of the power supply and the cold chassis ground, so be careful not to get whacked. If it works, do not be tempted to permanently float the power board off the chassis because reconnecting to the main will ground it again....

If the voltages still stay down after disconnecting the LEDs and the main, replace the supply.

yep, voltages remained the same. still erratic.. replacing the PS.. Thanks for your help..

I think I have a KU power supply in stock. Let me free run it and check those voltages before you buy a board. Samsung does some weird things on certain models. I'll post later today when I get to work.


OK,..
  #8   Report Post  
Old February 20th 21, 12:35 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Aug 2020
Posts: 54
Default Curved Samsung no pic

On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 10:19:13 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 7:42:14 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 1:09:20 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 7:04:27 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 5:39:46 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 12:02:55 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wednesday, February 17, 2021 at 3:59:00 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Hi Group, can someone help please, im working on a Samsung un55ku650dfxzaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when testing the PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend says they're supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps read 395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously,
Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply. With the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-run when AC is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights should turn on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likely a bad main, but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If the back lights don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics near the LED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display.
I Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply, no backlights, still erratic voltages on pins 3,5,7,9.. and also erratic on the caps near the led connector, no where near the voltage you said, more like 106v down to 90v..
Disconnect the LEDs from the power supply and leave the main disconnected, plug in the AC. If the voltages return, an LED burned through and shorted to the metal backed LED strip which is now shorted to the backside of the display "chassis". You can try reconnecting the LED harness and physically float the power supply board off the back pan (you want to isolate it from cold ground) by putting it in a shallow cardboard box or put a heavy blanket between the board and the chassis. The LEDs might light, but if they do, there will be a 300V potential between the now floating ground connections of the power supply and the cold chassis ground, so be careful not to get whacked. If it works, do not be tempted to permanently float the power board off the chassis because reconnecting to the main will ground it again...

If the voltages still stay down after disconnecting the LEDs and the main, replace the supply.
yep, voltages remained the same. still erratic.. replacing the PS.. Thanks for your help..

I think I have a KU power supply in stock. Let me free run it and check those voltages before you buy a board. Samsung does some weird things on certain models. I'll post later today when I get to work.

OK,..



The KU board I have puts over 300 V on the electros near the LED connector with the main and LEDs disconnected (just AC on the bench). If you're not getting voltage near the LED connector the power supply is most likely bad. I say most likely because certain versions have slightly different power up protocols, but I'd be fairly confident it's your problem from my chair.

  #9   Report Post  
Old February 20th 21, 04:18 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Oct 2020
Posts: 15
Default Curved Samsung no pic

On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 6:38:29 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 10:19:13 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 7:42:14 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 1:09:20 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 7:04:27 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 5:39:46 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 12:02:55 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wednesday, February 17, 2021 at 3:59:00 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Hi Group, can someone help please, im working on a Samsung un55ku650dfxzaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when testing the PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend says they're supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps read 395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously,
Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply. With the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-run when AC is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights should turn on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likely a bad main, but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If the back lights don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics near the LED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display.
I Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply, no backlights, still erratic voltages on pins 3,5,7,9.. and also erratic on the caps near the led connector, no where near the voltage you said, more like 106v down to 90v..
Disconnect the LEDs from the power supply and leave the main disconnected, plug in the AC. If the voltages return, an LED burned through and shorted to the metal backed LED strip which is now shorted to the backside of the display "chassis". You can try reconnecting the LED harness and physically float the power supply board off the back pan (you want to isolate it from cold ground) by putting it in a shallow cardboard box or put a heavy blanket between the board and the chassis. The LEDs might light, but if they do, there will be a 300V potential between the now floating ground connections of the power supply and the cold chassis ground, so be careful not to get whacked. If it works, do not be tempted to permanently float the power board off the chassis because reconnecting to the main will ground it again...

If the voltages still stay down after disconnecting the LEDs and the main, replace the supply.
yep, voltages remained the same. still erratic.. replacing the PS.. Thanks for your help..
I think I have a KU power supply in stock. Let me free run it and check those voltages before you buy a board. Samsung does some weird things on certain models. I'll post later today when I get to work.

OK,..

The KU board I have puts over 300 V on the electros near the LED connector with the main and LEDs disconnected (just AC on the bench). If you're not getting voltage near the LED connector the power supply is most likely bad.. I say most likely because certain versions have slightly different power up protocols, but I'd be fairly confident it's your problem from my chair.


is the ps board you have compatible with my tv.???
  #10   Report Post  
Old February 20th 21, 01:38 PM posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Aug 2020
Posts: 54
Default Curved Samsung no pic

On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 10:18:37 PM UTC-5, wrote:

If the voltages still stay down after disconnecting the LEDs and the main, replace the supply.
yep, voltages remained the same. still erratic.. replacing the PS... Thanks for your help..
I think I have a KU power supply in stock. Let me free run it and check those voltages before you buy a board. Samsung does some weird things on certain models. I'll post later today when I get to work.
OK,..

The KU board I have puts over 300 V on the electros near the LED connector with the main and LEDs disconnected (just AC on the bench). If you're not getting voltage near the LED connector the power supply is most likely bad. I say most likely because certain versions have slightly different power up protocols, but I'd be fairly confident it's your problem from my chair..

is the ps board you have compatible with my tv.???


Not sure, there are several screen sizes and LED arrangements that differ between models for the KU series. Some of the KUs have a plug in wire harness for the LEDs and others plug directly into the display with an edge connector. There is a "version" number on the model number label, usually four characters. Get that version number and I'll check.



Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Samsung no pic Stu jaxon Electronics Repair 2 November 10th 20 02:00 PM
How does the word "spline" mean curved (and why not just usethe word curved)? David Howard Woodworking 17 October 12th 14 04:21 PM
How does the word "spline" mean curved (and why not just use the word curved)? Charles Bishop[_2_] Woodworking 0 October 6th 14 09:32 PM
Samsung part BN41-00001A for Samsung 520TFT Syncmaster monitor [email protected] Electronics Repair 1 February 5th 08 06:01 PM
Request: detail & pic of fax printer samsung SCX-4216F paper tray. Jason D. Electronics Repair 0 May 2nd 06 03:05 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 04:36 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2004-2021 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"

 

Copyright © 2017