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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
One of my CNC machines has a circuit board that has failed 3 times
now. The control is a FANUC 3T. It is an older control so failing boards don't surprise me. But it is just the one board. This board has many custom hybrid ICs, some other of the shelf ones, 6 EPROMs, and one electrolytic capacitor. I have checked this cap on two boards with my meter and the cap has the stated value and is not shorted. But I don't have a way to check ESR. The failure mode for all the boards is the same. First the turret on this lathe will occasionally index in the wrong direction. After the machine is powered up for a while it will then start to index properly. I can control the turret rotation from a program but when the board starts to fail it will only index in one direction. Furthermore, then turret should always rotate in the direction that is the shortest to the next tool called up, but when the board starts going bad the turret still only indexes in one direction. Unfortunately this is the wrong direction. After this failure other things start going wrong, like the speed control. Changing the boards has always fixed the problem. Note that when I change the boards I have to swap all the EPROMs so that the programming for the machine operation will be the same. Since all the boards seem to fail the same way I was wondering if somehow a failing cap could cause this failure. Even though the cap value reads fine with my VOM, that does not measure ESR. In any case I'm gonna order some caps and see if anything changes but I would like to know if it is probably gonna be a waste of time. Thanks, Eric |
#2
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
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#3
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
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#5
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 17:35:48 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote: In article , says... One of my CNC machines has a circuit board that has failed 3 times now. The control is a FANUC 3T. It is an older control so failing boards don't surprise me. But it is just the one board. This board has many custom hybrid ICs, some other of the shelf ones, 6 EPROMs, and one electrolytic capacitor. I have checked this cap on two boards with my meter and the cap has the stated value and is not shorted. But I don't have a way to check ESR. The capacitor probably only costs a few dollars at most. Just replace it and see if the board comes back to life. That is see if the machine acts normally. Yeah, I am gonna do that. I just won't get my hopes up. Eric |
#6
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Thursday, November 14, 2019 at 3:20:47 PM UTC-5, wrote:
One of my CNC machines has a circuit board that has failed 3 times now. The control is a FANUC 3T. It is an older control so failing boards don't surprise me. But it is just the one board. This board has many custom hybrid ICs, some other of the shelf ones, 6 EPROMs, and one electrolytic capacitor. I have checked this cap on two boards with my meter and the cap has the stated value and is not shorted. But I don't have a way to check ESR. The failure mode for all the boards is the same. First the turret on this lathe will occasionally index in the wrong direction. After the machine is powered up for a while it will then start to index properly. I can control the turret rotation from a program but when the board starts to fail it will only index in one direction. Furthermore, then turret should always rotate in the direction that is the shortest to the next tool called up, but when the board starts going bad the turret still only indexes in one direction. Unfortunately this is the wrong direction. After this failure other things start going wrong, like the speed control. Changing the boards has always fixed the problem. Note that when I change the boards I have to swap all the EPROMs so that the programming for the machine operation will be the same. Since all the boards seem to fail the same way I was wondering if somehow a failing cap could cause this failure. Even though the cap value reads fine with my VOM, that does not measure ESR. In any case I'm gonna order some caps and see if anything changes but I would like to know if it is probably gonna be a waste of time. Thanks, Eric I work on a lot of industrial equipment for two local machine shops, and electros do go. They bring me the suspected boards but I have them well trained to first heat the boards with a heat gun (without crisping them) and report if the normal operation is restored when heated. If so, the first thing to get checked is the electros. I pull every one and test them for value, ESR, and dielectric absorption. Testing ESR in circuit on many modern circuit boards is a waste of time. 99% of the time a board that works normally when heated has a lazy electrolytic. If the electro replacement doesn't fix it, try cooling individual parts to see if you can get it to act up. |
#7
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
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#8
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 18:32:29 -0800, John-Del wrote:
99% of the time a board that works normally when heated has a lazy electrolytic. Or a dry solder joint somewhere on the board. If the electro replacement doesn't fix it, try cooling individual parts to see if you can get it to act up. Good call. For which you can use stuff like 'pipe freeze' or 'Arctic freeze' with the fine straw inserted - sold at your local plumbing supplies. Clean the board with IPA afterwards. -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition. |
#9
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 18:32:29 -0800, John-Del wrote:
If so, the first thing to get checked is the electros. I pull every one and test them for value, ESR, and dielectric absorption. Testing ESR in circuit on many modern circuit boards is a waste of time. Why so? -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition. |
#10
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Friday, November 15, 2019 at 4:45:16 AM UTC-5, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 18:32:29 -0800, John-Del wrote: If so, the first thing to get checked is the electros. I pull every one and test them for value, ESR, and dielectric absorption. Testing ESR in circuit on many modern circuit boards is a waste of time. Why so? Too many circuits these days use a small value SMD multi layer chip capacitor bypassing an electrolytic. These chip caps have ESR figures as low or lower than most electrolytics you're likely to run across despite being small value caps. |
#11
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Thursday, November 14, 2019 at 11:14:21 PM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says... eport if the normal operation is restored when heated. If so, the first thing to get checked is the electros. I pull every one and test them for value, ESR, and dielectric absorption. Testing ESR in circuit on many modern circuit boards is a waste of time. Once pulled, you might as well not test them, just replace them. You may want to test the new ones before you put them in. If you know the board *will* be fixed and put back in service, then yes, by all means replace them. But if I pull an electro during testing and it's good, I put it back and continue working on the board. No sense changing good caps on a board that may have to be replaced, like OP is dealing with. Lots of these industrial boards use custom ICs, ICs and semis that have been intentionally defaced, and processor ICs for which there is just no data. Sometimes you just have to replace a board. |
#12
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On 2019/11/14 4:01 p.m., wrote:
On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 13:03:28 -0800, John Robertson wrote: On 2019/11/14 12:20 p.m., wrote: One of my CNC machines has a circuit board that has failed 3 times now. The control is a FANUC 3T. It is an older control so failing boards don't surprise me. But it is just the one board. This board has many custom hybrid ICs, some other of the shelf ones, 6 EPROMs, and one electrolytic capacitor. I have checked this cap on two boards with my meter and the cap has the stated value and is not shorted. But I don't have a way to check ESR. The failure mode for all the boards is the same. First the turret on this lathe will occasionally index in the wrong direction. After the machine is powered up for a while it will then start to index properly. I can control the turret rotation from a program but when the board starts to fail it will only index in one direction. Furthermore, then turret should always rotate in the direction that is the shortest to the next tool called up, but when the board starts going bad the turret still only indexes in one direction. Unfortunately this is the wrong direction. After this failure other things start going wrong, like the speed control. Changing the boards has always fixed the problem. Note that when I change the boards I have to swap all the EPROMs so that the programming for the machine operation will be the same. Since all the boards seem to fail the same way I was wondering if somehow a failing cap could cause this failure. Even though the cap value reads fine with my VOM, that does not measure ESR. In any case I'm gonna order some caps and see if anything changes but I would like to know if it is probably gonna be a waste of time. Thanks, Eric I'd say it is unlikely the capacitor is the problem - normally these are used to smooth the Vcc to the chips. You say there are custom chips on the board, so depending on if you can get schematics or not then you may be looking at the rest of the circuits. Regular electrolytic caps are rarely used for critical timing, rather they would use a tantalum cap if the value was important. If you want to check the ESR then Bob Parker's Blue ESR meter kit is not a bad way to go...available here (flippers.com - shameless plug!) and there... However I don't think the cap is responsible for your problems. Have you tried simply reseating the chips and connectors to the PCB and any readouts, sensors, etc. in case it may be that simply reseating plugs fixes the problem? If the problem is only apparent after the machine has been on a while have you checked the temperature of the logic? Chips don't like being more than 50C by and large, and the cooler they run the better. A heat gun and some cold spray may help find the sensitive IC as you say the problem goes away when the system is warm. John :-#)# Greetings John, Actually the machine starts to work after it has warmed up for a while. I have tried the whole contact cleaning route several times and it has had no effect on this machine. Today I tried out two boards that I got used from eBay. One worked and the other, whil it indexed then turret OK would not allow programmed speed changes. The speed change fault is mysterious to me and it has happened on another board. The mystery is because of what the fault does. Niormally speed changes while running a program can only happen from programmed speed changes or from the constant surface speed command. But when the board goes bad then the spindle speed can only be controlled by the dial used for speed changes when in jog mode. And that dial normally does not work when running a program. I checked all the parameters and they have not changed. And the EPROMs that hold the ladder programs for the machine are not affected. In fact, I have to change them from board to board. Speaking of EPROMs, I am ordering a GQ-4x4 programmer so I can copy my EPROMs. I am really afraid I will destroy one one of these days. I have lots of 2716 and 27C16 EPROMs that I can erase and re-program. The machine has in it some 2716 and 2516 devices and I was told that the 2516 devices should not be used. I am hoping the programmer can read the 2516 devices. Thanks, Eric Hi Eric, If those are TI TMS2516 then they are equivalent to regular Intel 2716s. The TMS2716 by TI had a triple supply and A10 was displaced. TMS2716 vs regular 2716s https://www.dropbox.com/s/7xaz0b829b...s2716.jpg?dl=0 TMS2516 (Thanks JRock for hosting): http://www.jrok.com/datasheet/TMS2516.pdf I don't know about the dependability of the TMS2516, but I would back up ALL EPROMs just for safeties sake! I hope your new EPROM reader can handle the 2716s, if not if it can read 2732s then you will get the data twice and you can split off the high and low sections. John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
#13
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On 2019/11/15 5:26 a.m., John-Del wrote:
On Friday, November 15, 2019 at 4:45:16 AM UTC-5, Cursitor Doom wrote: On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 18:32:29 -0800, John-Del wrote: If so, the first thing to get checked is the electros. I pull every one and test them for value, ESR, and dielectric absorption. Testing ESR in circuit on many modern circuit boards is a waste of time. Why so? Too many circuits these days use a small value SMD multi layer chip capacitor bypassing an electrolytic. These chip caps have ESR figures as low or lower than most electrolytics you're likely to run across despite being small value caps. Except this machine is from 1982 (paper tape readers, etc.) - so any electros are primary smoothing ones for Vcc. http://cncmanual.com/download/1647/ John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
#14
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 08:42:37 -0800, John Robertson
wrote: On 2019/11/15 5:26 a.m., John-Del wrote: On Friday, November 15, 2019 at 4:45:16 AM UTC-5, Cursitor Doom wrote: On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 18:32:29 -0800, John-Del wrote: If so, the first thing to get checked is the electros. I pull every one and test them for value, ESR, and dielectric absorption. Testing ESR in circuit on many modern circuit boards is a waste of time. Why so? Too many circuits these days use a small value SMD multi layer chip capacitor bypassing an electrolytic. These chip caps have ESR figures as low or lower than most electrolytics you're likely to run across despite being small value caps. Except this machine is from 1982 (paper tape readers, etc.) - so any electros are primary smoothing ones for Vcc. http://cncmanual.com/download/1647/ John :-#)# Some Grass Valley products from the early 80s had electrolytics that would open but the surrounding circuitry would cause an ESR meter to read very low ESR. Once the electrolytic was pulled, it would test bad. |
#15
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
The EProms can cause issues when they age.
From my days of programming the 2716's. My programmer was semi-manual and it was really sensitive to the the programming voltage. An EEprom may not have been erased completely. Do inspect the board for bad solder joints. Freeze spray can sometimes help make equipment fail or work. On a non-powered board, it can help highlight a bad solder joint. |
#16
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On 2019/11/15 10:56 a.m., Ron D. wrote:
The EProms can cause issues when they age. From my days of programming the 2716's. My programmer was semi-manual and it was really sensitive to the the programming voltage. An EEprom may not have been erased completely. Do inspect the board for bad solder joints. Freeze spray can sometimes help make equipment fail or work. On a non-powered board, it can help highlight a bad solder joint. My Xeltek 610P programmer has a feature where it will test EPROMs at +/- 10% of the voltage to help weed out iffy burns or EPROMs. Recently I had some EPROMs I was verifying and they failed the over-voltage test - so I reprogrammed them (not erased, just hit them with the programmer burn process) and then they tested just fine. I assume I recharged the gates so all was then well. John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
#17
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 11:27:05 -0800, John Robertson
wrote: On 2019/11/15 10:56 a.m., Ron D. wrote: The EProms can cause issues when they age. From my days of programming the 2716's. My programmer was semi-manual and it was really sensitive to the the programming voltage. An EEprom may not have been erased completely. Do inspect the board for bad solder joints. Freeze spray can sometimes help make equipment fail or work. On a non-powered board, it can help highlight a bad solder joint. My Xeltek 610P programmer has a feature where it will test EPROMs at +/- 10% of the voltage to help weed out iffy burns or EPROMs. Recently I had some EPROMs I was verifying and they failed the over-voltage test - so I reprogrammed them (not erased, just hit them with the programmer burn process) and then they tested just fine. I assume I recharged the gates so all was then well. John :-#)# I will need to erase the EPROMs before they get new programs. My wife has a UV light source she uses for curing some sort of fingernail coating for artificial nails. I'm hoping it will work OK. The programmer I am buying is the MCUmall Electronics model GQ-4x4. I called them and they said programmer software verifies the info downloaded from the EPROM and then once again verifies the uploaded info. Eric |
#18
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On 2019/11/15 12:01 p.m., wrote:
On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 11:27:05 -0800, John Robertson wrote: On 2019/11/15 10:56 a.m., Ron D. wrote: The EProms can cause issues when they age. From my days of programming the 2716's. My programmer was semi-manual and it was really sensitive to the the programming voltage. An EEprom may not have been erased completely. Do inspect the board for bad solder joints. Freeze spray can sometimes help make equipment fail or work. On a non-powered board, it can help highlight a bad solder joint. My Xeltek 610P programmer has a feature where it will test EPROMs at +/- 10% of the voltage to help weed out iffy burns or EPROMs. Recently I had some EPROMs I was verifying and they failed the over-voltage test - so I reprogrammed them (not erased, just hit them with the programmer burn process) and then they tested just fine. I assume I recharged the gates so all was then well. John :-#)# I will need to erase the EPROMs before they get new programs. My wife has a UV light source she uses for curing some sort of fingernail coating for artificial nails. I'm hoping it will work OK. The programmer I am buying is the MCUmall Electronics model GQ-4x4. I called them and they said programmer software verifies the info downloaded from the EPROM and then once again verifies the uploaded info. Eric I would HIGHLY recommend that you keep the original EPROMs and get some good 2716s to burn and a few spares... Please do not erase your originals! John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
#19
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 12:38:19 -0800, John Robertson
wrote: On 2019/11/15 12:01 p.m., wrote: On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 11:27:05 -0800, John Robertson wrote: On 2019/11/15 10:56 a.m., Ron D. wrote: The EProms can cause issues when they age. From my days of programming the 2716's. My programmer was semi-manual and it was really sensitive to the the programming voltage. An EEprom may not have been erased completely. Do inspect the board for bad solder joints. Freeze spray can sometimes help make equipment fail or work. On a non-powered board, it can help highlight a bad solder joint. My Xeltek 610P programmer has a feature where it will test EPROMs at +/- 10% of the voltage to help weed out iffy burns or EPROMs. Recently I had some EPROMs I was verifying and they failed the over-voltage test - so I reprogrammed them (not erased, just hit them with the programmer burn process) and then they tested just fine. I assume I recharged the gates so all was then well. John :-#)# I will need to erase the EPROMs before they get new programs. My wife has a UV light source she uses for curing some sort of fingernail coating for artificial nails. I'm hoping it will work OK. The programmer I am buying is the MCUmall Electronics model GQ-4x4. I called them and they said programmer software verifies the info downloaded from the EPROM and then once again verifies the uploaded info. Eric I would HIGHLY recommend that you keep the original EPROMs and get some good 2716s to burn and a few spares... Please do not erase your originals! John :-#)# I will NOT be erasing the originals. They are, as near as I can tell, not available from any soyrce. I have looked for a long time on eBay in the hope that someone scrapping a machine will have some. But the machines, while similar, are never the same. I'm even afriad to copy them. That's why I am going to practice on some others first. Eric |
#20
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On 2019/11/15 12:47 p.m., wrote:
On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 12:38:19 -0800, John Robertson wrote: On 2019/11/15 12:01 p.m., wrote: On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 11:27:05 -0800, John Robertson wrote: On 2019/11/15 10:56 a.m., Ron D. wrote: The EProms can cause issues when they age. From my days of programming the 2716's. My programmer was semi-manual and it was really sensitive to the the programming voltage. An EEprom may not have been erased completely. Do inspect the board for bad solder joints. Freeze spray can sometimes help make equipment fail or work. On a non-powered board, it can help highlight a bad solder joint. My Xeltek 610P programmer has a feature where it will test EPROMs at +/- 10% of the voltage to help weed out iffy burns or EPROMs. Recently I had some EPROMs I was verifying and they failed the over-voltage test - so I reprogrammed them (not erased, just hit them with the programmer burn process) and then they tested just fine. I assume I recharged the gates so all was then well. John :-#)# I will need to erase the EPROMs before they get new programs. My wife has a UV light source she uses for curing some sort of fingernail coating for artificial nails. I'm hoping it will work OK. The programmer I am buying is the MCUmall Electronics model GQ-4x4. I called them and they said programmer software verifies the info downloaded from the EPROM and then once again verifies the uploaded info. Eric I would HIGHLY recommend that you keep the original EPROMs and get some good 2716s to burn and a few spares... Please do not erase your originals! John :-#)# I will NOT be erasing the originals. They are, as near as I can tell, not available from any soyrce. I have looked for a long time on eBay in the hope that someone scrapping a machine will have some. But the machines, while similar, are never the same. I'm even afriad to copy them. That's why I am going to practice on some others first. Eric Reading is pretty safe, however I would recommend you contact MCUmall and make sure that the READ process for pin 21 is done at 5VDC and not at the programming voltage which is 21VDC. You can verify this with a voltmeter by simply not having any chip in the socket and then do a read while monitoring socket pin 21 (ad common at pin 12) to make sure the voltage is 5VDC. It would not hurt to verify that pin 24, again relative to pin 12 - is also 5VDC. Lastly, for the paranoid folks, I would also check pin 20 and 18 to make sure they are never higher than 5VDC. I am not saying the MCUmall programmer is bad, I'm just pointing out how I would check any programmer that I am trusting irreplaceable EPROMs to! If you have a scope so much the better to test the programmer READ voltages at the various pins! As you say you only have the one set of EPROMs and your equipment would be worthless if any are damaged by the programmer! Does this machine have an 8-bit CPU such as Z80, 68XX, 6502, etc? If someone lives near you and has a Fluke 9010 with the appropriate pod then they could extract the data from the EPROMs at no risk to them. They would also need an RS-232 port on the Fluke to grab the data... I can do this in my shop, but I suspect we are not very close - I'm in Vancouver (Burnaby, but no one knows that city), Canada area... John -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
#21
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 13:48:51 -0800, John Robertson
wrote: On 2019/11/15 12:47 p.m., wrote: On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 12:38:19 -0800, John Robertson wrote: On 2019/11/15 12:01 p.m., wrote: On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 11:27:05 -0800, John Robertson wrote: On 2019/11/15 10:56 a.m., Ron D. wrote: The EProms can cause issues when they age. From my days of programming the 2716's. My programmer was semi-manual and it was really sensitive to the the programming voltage. An EEprom may not have been erased completely. Do inspect the board for bad solder joints. Freeze spray can sometimes help make equipment fail or work. On a non-powered board, it can help highlight a bad solder joint. My Xeltek 610P programmer has a feature where it will test EPROMs at +/- 10% of the voltage to help weed out iffy burns or EPROMs. Recently I had some EPROMs I was verifying and they failed the over-voltage test - so I reprogrammed them (not erased, just hit them with the programmer burn process) and then they tested just fine. I assume I recharged the gates so all was then well. John :-#)# I will need to erase the EPROMs before they get new programs. My wife has a UV light source she uses for curing some sort of fingernail coating for artificial nails. I'm hoping it will work OK. The programmer I am buying is the MCUmall Electronics model GQ-4x4. I called them and they said programmer software verifies the info downloaded from the EPROM and then once again verifies the uploaded info. Eric I would HIGHLY recommend that you keep the original EPROMs and get some good 2716s to burn and a few spares... Please do not erase your originals! John :-#)# I will NOT be erasing the originals. They are, as near as I can tell, not available from any soyrce. I have looked for a long time on eBay in the hope that someone scrapping a machine will have some. But the machines, while similar, are never the same. I'm even afriad to copy them. That's why I am going to practice on some others first. Eric Reading is pretty safe, however I would recommend you contact MCUmall and make sure that the READ process for pin 21 is done at 5VDC and not at the programming voltage which is 21VDC. You can verify this with a voltmeter by simply not having any chip in the socket and then do a read while monitoring socket pin 21 (ad common at pin 12) to make sure the voltage is 5VDC. It would not hurt to verify that pin 24, again relative to pin 12 - is also 5VDC. Lastly, for the paranoid folks, I would also check pin 20 and 18 to make sure they are never higher than 5VDC. I am not saying the MCUmall programmer is bad, I'm just pointing out how I would check any programmer that I am trusting irreplaceable EPROMs to! If you have a scope so much the better to test the programmer READ voltages at the various pins! As you say you only have the one set of EPROMs and your equipment would be worthless if any are damaged by the programmer! Does this machine have an 8-bit CPU such as Z80, 68XX, 6502, etc? If someone lives near you and has a Fluke 9010 with the appropriate pod then they could extract the data from the EPROMs at no risk to them. They would also need an RS-232 port on the Fluke to grab the data... I can do this in my shop, but I suspect we are not very close - I'm in Vancouver (Burnaby, but no one knows that city), Canada area... John It's a Fanuc control and as far as I know the control is completely Fanuc. I don't know anyone who has s Fluke 9010 and even though I know where Burnaby is it is still a bit of a drive from the south end of Whidbey Island. I do have other 2516 EPROMs that are useless to me that I am going to use to test the reader/programmer. The tech support guy did say that 2516 devices may not program properly but that they can be read just fine. Nevertheless I will take your advice. I can use my TEK 465B scope to check the voltages. And I read either here or in an email from the tech support folks that the TI 2516 devices are the same as the 2716 devices and I know that at least one EPROM is a TI 2516. There is a mix of devices because it seems that at least two EPROMs are common to almost every board from Miyano lathes and the other 4 on the one board are the ones I need to copy. So as I buy old boards I get, now and then, copies of the two common types. So these will be tested first along with some other 2516 devices I have from another Fanuc control. I really appreciate all the advice I get here and especially the EPROM advice I am getting recently. It really makes me feel better about repairing this machine. Speaking of this lathe, I know people who would say just replace the machine or at least the control. But I have done a complete control replacement before and it is not trivial. And Fanuc controls are usually very robust. It is just this one board that is giving me problems and I can't see how the machine itself could be damaging this particular board. I could just replace the machine completely but this is very expensive and this particular machine is just not getting enough work at this time to justify at least 60 grand to replace it. The lathe itself is, the mechanics and the servos, are in great shape. I can hold .0001" without any problems. All day. Even though the top spindle speed is only 5000 RPM most of the work I do can't be done at higher RPM because of the diameter and material of the work. Eric |
#22
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On 2019/11/15 3:57 p.m., wrote:
On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 13:48:51 -0800, John Robertson wrote: On 2019/11/15 12:47 p.m., wrote: On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 12:38:19 -0800, John Robertson wrote: On 2019/11/15 12:01 p.m., wrote: On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 11:27:05 -0800, John Robertson wrote: On 2019/11/15 10:56 a.m., Ron D. wrote: The EProms can cause issues when they age. From my days of programming the 2716's. My programmer was semi-manual and it was really sensitive to the the programming voltage. An EEprom may not have been erased completely. Do inspect the board for bad solder joints. Freeze spray can sometimes help make equipment fail or work. On a non-powered board, it can help highlight a bad solder joint. My Xeltek 610P programmer has a feature where it will test EPROMs at +/- 10% of the voltage to help weed out iffy burns or EPROMs. Recently I had some EPROMs I was verifying and they failed the over-voltage test - so I reprogrammed them (not erased, just hit them with the programmer burn process) and then they tested just fine. I assume I recharged the gates so all was then well. John :-#)# I will need to erase the EPROMs before they get new programs. My wife has a UV light source she uses for curing some sort of fingernail coating for artificial nails. I'm hoping it will work OK. The programmer I am buying is the MCUmall Electronics model GQ-4x4. I called them and they said programmer software verifies the info downloaded from the EPROM and then once again verifies the uploaded info. Eric I would HIGHLY recommend that you keep the original EPROMs and get some good 2716s to burn and a few spares... Please do not erase your originals! John :-#)# I will NOT be erasing the originals. They are, as near as I can tell, not available from any soyrce. I have looked for a long time on eBay in the hope that someone scrapping a machine will have some. But the machines, while similar, are never the same. I'm even afriad to copy them. That's why I am going to practice on some others first. Eric Reading is pretty safe, however I would recommend you contact MCUmall and make sure that the READ process for pin 21 is done at 5VDC and not at the programming voltage which is 21VDC. You can verify this with a voltmeter by simply not having any chip in the socket and then do a read while monitoring socket pin 21 (ad common at pin 12) to make sure the voltage is 5VDC. It would not hurt to verify that pin 24, again relative to pin 12 - is also 5VDC. Lastly, for the paranoid folks, I would also check pin 20 and 18 to make sure they are never higher than 5VDC. I am not saying the MCUmall programmer is bad, I'm just pointing out how I would check any programmer that I am trusting irreplaceable EPROMs to! If you have a scope so much the better to test the programmer READ voltages at the various pins! As you say you only have the one set of EPROMs and your equipment would be worthless if any are damaged by the programmer! Does this machine have an 8-bit CPU such as Z80, 68XX, 6502, etc? If someone lives near you and has a Fluke 9010 with the appropriate pod then they could extract the data from the EPROMs at no risk to them. They would also need an RS-232 port on the Fluke to grab the data... I can do this in my shop, but I suspect we are not very close - I'm in Vancouver (Burnaby, but no one knows that city), Canada area... John It's a Fanuc control and as far as I know the control is completely Fanuc. I don't know anyone who has s Fluke 9010 and even though I know where Burnaby is it is still a bit of a drive from the south end of Whidbey Island. I do have other 2516 EPROMs that are useless to me that I am going to use to test the reader/programmer. The tech support guy did say that 2516 devices may not program properly but that they can be read just fine. Nevertheless I will take your advice. I can use my TEK 465B scope to check the voltages. And I read either here or in an email from the tech support folks that the TI 2516 devices are the same as the 2716 devices and I know that at least one EPROM is a TI 2516. There is a mix of devices because it seems that at least two EPROMs are common to almost every board from Miyano lathes and the other 4 on the one board are the ones I need to copy. So as I buy old boards I get, now and then, copies of the two common types. So these will be tested first along with some other 2516 devices I have from another Fanuc control. I really appreciate all the advice I get here and especially the EPROM advice I am getting recently. It really makes me feel better about repairing this machine. Speaking of this lathe, I know people who would say just replace the machine or at least the control. But I have done a complete control replacement before and it is not trivial. And Fanuc controls are usually very robust. It is just this one board that is giving me problems and I can't see how the machine itself could be damaging this particular board. I could just replace the machine completely but this is very expensive and this particular machine is just not getting enough work at this time to justify at least 60 grand to replace it. The lathe itself is, the mechanics and the servos, are in great shape. I can hold .0001" without any problems. All day. Even though the top spindle speed is only 5000 RPM most of the work I do can't be done at higher RPM because of the diameter and material of the work. Eric Whidbey Island is just a day trip to Vancouver/Burnaby. I'd be happy to archive your EPROMs and burn you up a set of spares if you can't sort it out... I think you are neighbour to my friend the ex-basketball player who loves pinball, if you know who I am speaking of, tell him I said "Hi!". John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
#23
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Friday, November 15, 2019 at 5:30:14 AM UTC-8, John-Del wrote:
On Thursday, November 14, 2019 at 11:14:21 PM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote: In article , says... eport if the normal operation is restored when heated. If so, the first thing to get checked is the electros. I pull every one and test them for value, ESR, and dielectric absorption. Testing ESR in circuit on many modern circuit boards is a waste of time. Once pulled, you might as well not test them, just replace them. You may want to test the new ones before you put them in. If you know the board *will* be fixed and put back in service, then yes, by all means replace them. But if I pull an electro during testing and it's good, I put it back and continue working on the board. No sense changing good caps on a board that may have to be replaced, like OP is dealing with.. Lots of these industrial boards use custom ICs, ICs and semis that have been intentionally defaced, and processor ICs for which there is just no data. Sometimes you just have to replace a board. 'lytic caps go bad eventually. After removing the caps for testing you've already run the risk of damaging the board. Why put the old ones back? In broadcast gear small value caps are the most common failures. I've replaced thousands of 100uF 25 V caps. Unit price 32 cents, 1000 for $83. Buy in bulk and replace in bulk. It costs less than testing and re-installing. G² |
#24
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
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#25
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Saturday, November 16, 2019 at 5:05:47 AM UTC-5, wrote:
If you know the board *will* be fixed and put back in service, then yes, by all means replace them. But if I pull an electro during testing and it's good, I put it back and continue working on the board. No sense changing good caps on a board that may have to be replaced, like OP is dealing with. Lots of these industrial boards use custom ICs, ICs and semis that have been intentionally defaced, and processor ICs for which there is just no data. Sometimes you just have to replace a board. 'lytic caps go bad eventually. After removing the caps for testing you've already run the risk of damaging the board. Anyone who would ruin a board by removing a cap isn't a professional and shouldn't be playing with it. There is ZERO chance of damaging even a multi-layer board. Why put the old ones back? In broadcast gear small value caps are the most common failures. I've replaced thousands of 100uF 25 V caps. Unit price 32 cents, 1000 for $83. Buy in bulk and replace in bulk. It costs less than testing and re-installing. You actually quoted my reason (thanks for not snipping it) but either didn't read it or didn't understand it. So I've copied and pasted my previously posted reason below: "If you know the board *will* be fixed and put back in service, then yes, by all means replace them. But if I pull an electro during testing and it's good, I put it back and continue working on the board. No sense changing good caps on a board that may have to be replaced, like OP is dealing with." "Lots of these industrial boards use custom ICs, ICs and semis that have been intentionally defaced, and processor ICs for which there is just no data.. Sometimes you just have to replace a board." So if I have to replace a board that caps won't fix, why go through the trouble of recapping it? On low to mid percentage shots like these one-off industrial controls, the plan is five stages: 1)I troubleshoot and repair the board first. If it's not repairable, I go to step 5. If I get the board repaired, I go to step 2. 2)recap it 3)Clean and deflux the board, and inspect under a bright light and loop. Reflow any questionable solder and reflow all the solder on edge connectors, transformers, and high heat generating components. 4)Deflux again and spray with conformal coating if the board originally was built with it. 5)Get paid for my time. |
#26
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Saturday, November 16, 2019 at 11:09:21 AM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says... 'lytic caps go bad eventually. After removing the caps for testing you've already run the risk of damaging the board. Why put the old ones back? In broadcast gear small value caps are the most common failures. I've replaced thousands of 100uF 25 V caps. Unit price 32 cents, 1000 for $83. Buy in bulk and replace in bulk. It costs less than testing and re-installing. G Right, at the small cost of the capacitors, it is foolish to put backin an old one even if the board may have other problems and not used. I've read that sentence like 5 times and all I can say is that you wouldn't be working for me.. Honestly, sometimes I wonder if people just post because they want to say *something*. |
#27
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Sat, 16 Nov 2019 15:46:48 -0800, John-Del wrote:
Anyone who would ruin a board by removing a cap isn't a professional and shouldn't be playing with it. There is ZERO chance of damaging even a multi-layer board. There is when *I'm* around! Here's how I got an inaccessible cap out of this network analyser a couple of days ago: https://postimg.cc/bZYGSvnr But as you will probably gather, I'm no professional. :-D -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition. |
#28
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Sat, 16 Nov 2019 15:46:48 -0800, John-Del wrote:
So if I have to replace a board that caps won't fix, why go through the trouble of recapping it? I'm worried about cheap Chinese crap getting into the supply chain and that's why I'd rather leave things be. I might end up replacing a perfectly serviceable 40 year old cap made by a prime manufacturer with something nasty from China that's going to go *phut* long before the original one would have. -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition. |
#29
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Saturday, November 16, 2019 at 7:57:21 PM UTC-5, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Sat, 16 Nov 2019 15:46:48 -0800, John-Del wrote: So if I have to replace a board that caps won't fix, why go through the trouble of recapping it? I'm worried about cheap Chinese crap getting into the supply chain and that's why I'd rather leave things be. I might end up replacing a perfectly serviceable 40 year old cap made by a prime manufacturer with something nasty from China that's going to go *phut* long before the original one would have. It's a good plan to avoid knock-off parts of any type. Many of old timers have seen counterfeit parts going back 40 years or more. You just need to be careful about where you source your parts. Here in the states, I use DigiKey mostly. I can buy cheaper caps but I prefer to buy from a trusted supplier. Plus, companies like DigiKey and Mouser have a huge selection of caps. So one can select not only value, voltage rating, and lead configuration, but also have the option of selecting manufacturer, ESR, and lifetime hours ratings. I generally only buy Panasonic capacitors because I've grown to trust them. In industrial controls where they are all on the time in a wide variety of temperature extremes, I don't want a cap with a 1000 or 2000 hour rating. I also know that with DigiKey and Mouser, I'll get a genuine Panasonic or Nichicon capacitor if I order one. They cost more than I can get them elsewhere, but I'd rather pay more to know I'm not getting a knock-off. I also know that a new Panasonic cap (like the EEU-TA series) *will* last longer than the original ten year old capacitor with many thousands of hours on it. Even a top quality capacitor is still on borrowed time after 40 years. |
#30
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Sun, 17 Nov 2019 07:52:26 -0800, John-Del wrote:
It's a good plan to avoid knock-off parts of any type. Many of old timers have seen counterfeit parts going back 40 years or more. Where did those fakes come from 40 years ago?? I'm guessing certainly not from China. China joined the game *much* later AFAIK. You just need to be careful about where you source your parts. Here in the states, I use DigiKey mostly. I can buy cheaper caps but I prefer to buy from a trusted supplier. Plus, companies like DigiKey and Mouser have a huge selection of caps. So one can select not only value, voltage rating, and lead configuration, but also have the option of selecting manufacturer, ESR, and lifetime hours ratings. It's kind of baffling when one first sees the range of choice available from those two suppliers, though. I find it takes me *so* much longer to find the part I want than when I was with Farnell/CPC which had a much more limited range. Sometimes you can have too much choice and it becomes a PITA to sort through it all, even with all those filters. Perhaps I'll feel differently once I eventually get used to it. I generally only buy Panasonic capacitors because I've grown to trust them. Amen to that. Same here! -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition. |
#31
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Sunday, November 17, 2019 at 12:34:45 PM UTC-5, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Sun, 17 Nov 2019 07:52:26 -0800, John-Del wrote: It's a good plan to avoid knock-off parts of any type. Many of old timers have seen counterfeit parts going back 40 years or more. Where did those fakes come from 40 years ago?? I'm guessing certainly not from China. China joined the game *much* later AFAIK. Japan mostly, but that is supposition on my part. I believe some of those fakes were simply relabeled parts and not necessarily purposely built as counterfeits. Back in the CRT TV days, we'd buy horizontal/line output transistors a hundred at a shot (like the Toshiba 2SC1172B or Sanyo 1308K). Then we started getting counterfeits that would last minutes to days, then blow. We used to buy Sony SG613s in bulk and never had a problem. Suddenly the next shipment would blow up on plug in. We also saw TONS of Motorola and Toshiba audio outputs for stereo equipment that were relabeled. Vertical ICs, SMPS regulators etc.. There was virtually no category untouched. I even remember the counterfeit Sony "jungle" ICs that would work for a few days, weeks, or months, then cause shutdowns or other odd symptoms. The Sony jungle ICs were complicated devices and these were either line rejects or purposely built to counterfeit. I don't really know nor does it really matter at my end. All I know is that they caused costly callbacks. My guess is that a lot of the early counterfeits were just the lower power/current/voltage versions of the series that were cleaned and reprinted. |
#32
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
Cursitor Doom wrote:
--------------------- John-Del wrote: It's a good plan to avoid knock-off parts of any type. Many of old timers have seen counterfeit parts going back 40 years or more. Where did those fakes come from 40 years ago?? I'm guessing certainly not from China. China joined the game *much* later AFAIK. ** Back in 1980, on open sale in Australia were counterfeit Motorola power transistors. Thousands of them, either included in amplifier kits or across the counter. The devices were branded "TIC" for " Transistor Instrument Company" operating from, Florida. They did not in fact manufacture anything but had a catalogue with hundreds of types. What TIC did was buy up surplus TO3 stock and remove the original labelling - then re-ink the parts according to your order. So a 10 cent item became worth several dollars each. Just about the only similarity was the TO3 pak. The ones I saw and tried to use were Motorola numbers MJ1003 & MJ15004. The exact same scam was done by fake wholesalers in places like Hong Kong. Another fake wholesaler in the same state was called "Aero" and dealt mostly in relabelled and used vacuum tubes - again with a large catalogue. On offer were "new" transmitting tubes from them for hundreds of dollars a piece that had already seen thousands of hours of use. Or tubes from famous US maker Sylvania that were re-labelled stock from places like East Germany or Yugoslavia - for double the going price. When surplus stocks ran out, shiny new fakes were created in India or China that only resembled the real things in appearance. Manufacturers well knew to keep away, so sales normally only went to various retail operations and for spare parts. ...... Phil |
#33
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On 2019/11/17 10:10 a.m., John-Del wrote:
On Sunday, November 17, 2019 at 12:34:45 PM UTC-5, Cursitor Doom wrote: On Sun, 17 Nov 2019 07:52:26 -0800, John-Del wrote: It's a good plan to avoid knock-off parts of any type. Many of old timers have seen counterfeit parts going back 40 years or more. Where did those fakes come from 40 years ago?? I'm guessing certainly not from China. China joined the game *much* later AFAIK. Japan mostly, but that is supposition on my part. I believe some of those fakes were simply relabeled parts and not necessarily purposely built as counterfeits. Back in the CRT TV days, we'd buy horizontal/line output transistors a hundred at a shot (like the Toshiba 2SC1172B or Sanyo 1308K). Then we started getting counterfeits that would last minutes to days, then blow. We used to buy Sony SG613s in bulk and never had a problem. Suddenly the next shipment would blow up on plug in. We also saw TONS of Motorola and Toshiba audio outputs for stereo equipment that were relabeled. Vertical ICs, SMPS regulators etc.. There was virtually no category untouched. I even remember the counterfeit Sony "jungle" ICs that would work for a few days, weeks, or months, then cause shutdowns or other odd symptoms. The Sony jungle ICs were complicated devices and these were either line rejects or purposely built to counterfeit. I don't really know nor does it really matter at my end. All I know is that they caused costly callbacks. My guess is that a lot of the early counterfeits were just the lower power/current/voltage versions of the series that were cleaned and reprinted. Japan was a 'problem' back in the 50s and 60s - a friend of mine who lived in Japan in the 60s told me how they literally copied slot machines - they would buy one US slot, take it apart, and build exact replicas... But, then again, the US was a problem back in the 1700 and 1800s! Copyright laws did not exist in the US way back when and lots of publications that were protected in Europe were freely reprinted on the other side of the pond.. https://www.varsitytutors.com/earlya...-copyright-law Currency: https://www.history.org/Foundation/j...ounterfeit.cfm Roman times: https://coinweek.com/ancient-coins/b...ir-fake-coins/ Counterfeit stuff has always been around, that is why "bricks & mortar" places like Digikey, Mouser, Element 14, are trusted - unlike parts you buy off eBay or Amazon. Lots of Russian renumbered parts there... John :-#)# |
#34
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Sun, 17 Nov 2019 10:10:00 -0800, John-Del wrote:
Japan mostly, but that is supposition on my part. I believe some of those fakes were simply relabeled parts and not necessarily purposely built as counterfeits. Back in the CRT TV days, we'd buy horizontal/line output transistors a hundred at a shot (like the Toshiba 2SC1172B or Sanyo 1308K). Then we started getting counterfeits that would last minutes to days, then blow. We used to buy Sony SG613s in bulk and never had a problem. Suddenly the next shipment would blow up on plug in. I had no idea it was so universal. I mean, until recently I thought the problem was confined pretty much solely to voltage regulators, but clearly it goes way beyond that. I find it all (the 'infection' of the supply chain) deeply concerning. -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition. |
#35
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
Cursitor Doom wrote:
---------------------- I had no idea it was so universal. I mean, until recently I thought the problem was confined pretty much solely to voltage regulators, but clearly it goes way beyond that. I find it all (the 'infection' of the supply chain) deeply concerning. ** The second time ( a few years later) I found myself with fake MJ15003/4 I made an effort to track down the source. My supplier assured me it was "Motorola Australia" in Sydney - so I rang them and explained the situation. The sales guy checked the company database and found NO sales of those types had been made to the supplier in several years. Further investigation tracked the importing to a dealer in Melbourne who had offered them to likely customers all over the place. The stock same from a fake warehouse in Hong Kong. The official line from Motorola here was that one should ONLY deal with authorised suppliers of the brand who offered traceability. One such dealer told me the problem was rife, claiming hardly a day went by when nobody rang offering to sell them fake semis. The most common back then were memory chips, all nicely packed in bulk containers and all relabelled as to the rated speed. ...... Phil |
#36
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On 11/14/2019 6:01 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 13:03:28 -0800, John Robertson wrote: On 2019/11/14 12:20 p.m., wrote: One of my CNC machines has a circuit board that has failed 3 times now. The control is a FANUC 3T. It is an older control so failing boards don't surprise me. But it is just the one board. This board has many custom hybrid ICs, some other of the shelf ones, 6 EPROMs, and one electrolytic capacitor. I have checked this cap on two boards with my meter and the cap has the stated value and is not shorted. But I don't have a way to check ESR. The failure mode for all the boards is the same. First the turret on this lathe will occasionally index in the wrong direction. After the machine is powered up for a while it will then start to index properly. I can control the turret rotation from a program but when the board starts to fail it will only index in one direction. Furthermore, then turret should always rotate in the direction that is the shortest to the next tool called up, but when the board starts going bad the turret still only indexes in one direction. Unfortunately this is the wrong direction. After this failure other things start going wrong, like the speed control. Changing the boards has always fixed the problem. Note that when I change the boards I have to swap all the EPROMs so that the programming for the machine operation will be the same. Since all the boards seem to fail the same way I was wondering if somehow a failing cap could cause this failure. Even though the cap value reads fine with my VOM, that does not measure ESR. In any case I'm gonna order some caps and see if anything changes but I would like to know if it is probably gonna be a waste of time. Thanks, Eric I'd say it is unlikely the capacitor is the problem - normally these are used to smooth the Vcc to the chips. You say there are custom chips on the board, so depending on if you can get schematics or not then you may be looking at the rest of the circuits. Regular electrolytic caps are rarely used for critical timing, rather they would use a tantalum cap if the value was important. If you want to check the ESR then Bob Parker's Blue ESR meter kit is not a bad way to go...available here (flippers.com - shameless plug!) and there... However I don't think the cap is responsible for your problems. Have you tried simply reseating the chips and connectors to the PCB and any readouts, sensors, etc. in case it may be that simply reseating plugs fixes the problem? If the problem is only apparent after the machine has been on a while have you checked the temperature of the logic? Chips don't like being more than 50C by and large, and the cooler they run the better. A heat gun and some cold spray may help find the sensitive IC as you say the problem goes away when the system is warm. John :-#)# Greetings John, Actually the machine starts to work after it has warmed up for a while. If this is a consistent response, you may be able to locate the problem by heating/cooling the board. The easiest way is to have the board warmed and working. Buy yourself a can or two of 'Freeze Mist' spray half the board to cool it down, while checking operation. If it still works, let it warm up completely so you don't confuse the issue. Now cool of the other half of the PCB and check operation. If it malfunctions, you know which end to continue troubleshooting. Warm it up until proper operation, then start cooling individual parts on the bad 1/2 of the pcb, one at a time until the problem occurs. You can often isolate the problem part this way. Or you can do just the opposite, cool the pcb in the fridge, then use isolated heat until the machine works. It is harder to isolate the heat than to cool an individual part. So, I recommend the first procedure. If you decide to use heat on the pcb, use a hair dryer, not a heat gun. Mikek Freeze Mist, pick the best price with shipping. https://www.google.com/search?client...&q=freeze+mist Skip the CRC automotive product, I suspect it has other chemicals in it. |
#37
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On 11/16/19 10:09 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
Right, at the small cost of the capacitors, it is foolish to put back in an old one even if the board may have other problems and not used. Now if it was a $ 10 or even maybe a $ 5 part it may be worth putting the old part back on. Not even with $5-10 parts. My time is worth more than that. At the rate capacitors fail, the one that tested good may go bad much sooner than a new one. Then you have to do it all over again. It takes often takes more labor time and effort to test than to just put in a new one. Exactly, and then you KNOW they aren't the problem. -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
#38
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On 11/17/19 9:52 AM, John-Del wrote:
It's a good plan to avoid knock-off parts of any type. Apparently some people still haven't learned, "Pay ****, get ****." -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
#39
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
Fox's Mercantile wrote:
------------------------- John-Del wrote: It's a good plan to avoid knock-off parts of any type. Apparently some people still haven't learned, "Pay ****, get ****." ** Those who have not learned are dealers in components. Counterfeiters know their best market and approach firms acting as wholesalers for many brands with "bulk surplus stock" of the same brand at an appealing price. The items then get sold as regular stock the normal rate. Sometimes, fake items are put into stock by rogue staffers who take away the genuine stuff and sell it off elsewhere. Happened to Farnell a few years back with On Semi power transistors. Best way to hide a fake semi is to make them look good and sell at standard going prices. ..... Phil |
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Kind of a generic electrolytic cap question
On Sunday, November 17, 2019 at 9:01:31 PM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:
Best way to hide a fake semi is to make them look good and sell at standard going prices. .... Phil They do with with DLP lamps. OEM bulbs over here generally cost $80 U.S. give or take. People started buying ebay and Amazon lamps for a third of the cost of OEM and finding out they were either crapping out immediately or within a few months. They generally are not as bright as well. People started avoiding the cheap lamps. A few sellers have been selling counterfeit Philips bulbs at prices just below what Philips lamps sell for - seems like a great deal on Philips brand bulbs but it's the same old crappy lamp at a lot more money. |
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