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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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I just had to replace the bottom element in my GE oven, and discovered -- to
my great surprise -- that one side of the element is always "hot" -- that is, it has voltage on it. I will be calling Appliance Park next week and verbally tearing someone a new oven cavity. Is this normal? And if it is, is it for some reason other than saving money? -- "We already know the answers -- we just haven't asked the right questions." -- Edwin Land |
#2
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On Jun 18, 7:57*pm, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote: I just had to replace the bottom element in my GE oven, and discovered -- to my great surprise -- that one side of the element is always "hot" -- that is, it has voltage on it. I will be calling Appliance Park next week and verbally tearing someone a new oven cavity. Is this normal? And if it is, is it for some reason other than saving money? -- "We already know the answers -- we just haven't asked the right questions." -- Edwin Land So, the thermostat just opens one side of the 230V line? |
#3
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On 19/06/2011 10:57 AM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
I just had to replace the bottom element in my GE oven, and discovered -- to my great surprise -- that one side of the element is always "hot" -- that is, it has voltage on it. I will be calling Appliance Park next week and verbally tearing someone a new oven cavity. Is this something you surmised by looking at the wiring, or just a result of a meter measurement? In the latter case, it could be that the alleged qualified electrician who installed the appliance has connected it the wrong way wroung. Sylvia. |
#4
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I should have explained that I went to remove the element without opening
the breaker -- on the assumption that no engineer in his right mind would leave one side of the heating element powered. As I pulled out the element, I got a big (though not fat) spark. I was more surprised than frightened. You're correct. It appears the thermostat switches only one side of the heating element. By the way, the replacement was ordered Thursday morning and arrived Saturday morning at 9:30. Not too shabby. (Or should I say shabbes?) It took only a few minutes to replace the element, and the oven works fine. |
#5
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On 6/18/2011 9:51 PM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
I should have explained that I went to remove the element without opening the breaker -- on the assumption that no engineer in his right mind would leave one side of the heating element powered. Are you stupid? NOTHING gets worked on while connected to power. Jeff -- "Everything from Crackers to Coffins" |
#6
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I should have explained that I went to remove the element without
opening the breaker -- on the assumption that no engineer in his right mind would leave one side of the heating element powered. Are you stupid? NOTHING gets worked on while connected to power. "Foolish" might be more apt than "stupid". And people commonly work on powered TVs and other electronic equipment -- with proper precautions, of course. We still need an answer to the original question... Why? |
#7
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On 6/18/2011 10:20 PM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
I should have explained that I went to remove the element without opening the breaker -- on the assumption that no engineer in his right mind would leave one side of the heating element powered. Are you stupid? NOTHING gets worked on while connected to power. "Foolish" might be more apt than "stupid". And people commonly work on powered TVs and other electronic equipment -- with proper precautions, of course. We still need an answer to the original question... Why? Um, stupid is the correct term William. "Bench testing live equipment" is NOT the same as working on an oven connected to a 240 circuit. As to why it only opens one side of the circuit, that's simple, it only requires one switch to open a series circuit. It takes two to remove power. Hence the coupled dual pole breakers on the source (breaker) panel. Jeff -- "Everything from Crackers to Coffins" |
#8
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On 19/06/2011 1:20 PM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
I should have explained that I went to remove the element without opening the breaker -- on the assumption that no engineer in his right mind would leave one side of the heating element powered. Are you stupid? NOTHING gets worked on while connected to power. "Foolish" might be more apt than "stupid". And people commonly work on powered TVs and other electronic equipment -- with proper precautions, of course. We still need an answer to the original question... Why? I think it's perfectly normal for appliances to switch only one pole of the power supply, that pole being the live one. Same with power points and light switches. I don't think I've seen an appliance with a double power power switch. What's not normal, and dangerous, is for the neutral wire to be the one switched. Either the oven is miswired internally, is miswired to the mains supply, or the mains supply is miswired. Whichever it is needs to be fixed. Sylvia. |
#9
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Did AP sell you the part?
Have you RTFM? Would you prefer that the part not be available? Will you be working on other appliances without removing the power? Is what normal? -- Cheers, WB .............. "William Sommerwerck" wrote in message ... I just had to replace the bottom element in my GE oven, and discovered -- to my great surprise -- that one side of the element is always "hot" -- that is, it has voltage on it. I will be calling Appliance Park next week and verbally tearing someone a new oven cavity. Is this normal? And if it is, is it for some reason other than saving money? -- "We already know the answers -- we just haven't asked the right questions." -- Edwin Land |
#10
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On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 17:57:14 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote: I just had to replace the bottom element in my GE oven, and discovered -- to my great surprise -- that one side of the element is always "hot" -- that is, it has voltage on it. I will be calling Appliance Park next week and verbally tearing someone a new oven cavity. Is this normal? And if it is, is it for some reason other than saving money? That is common. The resistance element is encapsulated in a protective sheath. You cannot remove the heating element without removing the back of the appliance. I would wager the appliance was shipped with a warning label indicating it should be removed only by qualified servicers. Also, recall if either a mechanical or solid state double pole relay were used, one side could fail (contacts welded or SCR shorted) and you would never know the difference. There are titles for those who work on appliances without first ensuring it is disconnected. "The Dear Departed" is one. "Candidate for a Darwin Award" is another. I prefer 'Fool". PlainBill |
#11
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Circuit breakers don't need to be explained.
In probably less than 1/1000 of installations in any relatively modern home, there is a power plug (on a short cord) and receptacle for a kitchen range.. it's a service disconnect. Disconnects are defined and required by codes in many places, certainly by the NEC, and just plain (un?)-common sense. -- Cheers, WB .............. "William Sommerwerck" wrote in message ... I just had to replace the bottom element in my GE oven, and discovered -- to my great surprise -- that one side of the element is always "hot" -- that is, it has voltage on it. I will be calling Appliance Park next week and verbally tearing someone a new oven cavity. Is this normal? And if it is, is it for some reason other than saving money? -- "We already know the answers -- we just haven't asked the right questions." -- Edwin Land |
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