I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after
about a second after it is powered on. The Green power light stays on
and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to
it.

I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in
for. Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart.

There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not
sure.

Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it?

Would greatly appreciate any help.

Thanks so much!!!


S.

Samantha wrote:
I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after
about a second after it is powered on. The Green power light stays on
and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to
it.

I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in
for. Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart.

There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not
sure.

Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it?

Most likely bad capacitors in the inverter (or the bulk
supply feeding it). There are a HUGE number of Dell variants
so you might be able to find a similar monitor with a different
set of "trailing letters" in the model number (I've never
bothered to sort out the presumed meaning of all these
variations)

Most of these cases snap together. A very small slotted
screwdriver and/or one of the "blanks" used to fill an
empty "card slot" in a PC is invaluable.

Find a seam between the front and rear halves of the
display's case. *Think* about how the two pieces
are probably fitted together (i.e., one fits inside/behind
the other). Then, slide your tool into the seam and
*gently* pry them apart.

You can usually slide the tool along the seam until you
can "feel" where the catches are located. Usually, there
is symmetry -- the catches on the left side are placed in the
same locations as those along the right edge; ditto for
top and bottom (within reason). Also, there tends to be symmetry
about the vertical and horizontal axes -- so, if there is a catch
1" down (from the top) the left side, there is probably one 1"
*up* (from the bottom) on that side.

Experiment along the bottom -- someplace where your mistakes
aren't as cosmetically visible. (remember, plastic deforms easily
so you can easily gouge it with your tool).

Good luck!

In article ,
D Yuniskis wrote:

Samantha wrote:
I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after
about a second after it is powered on. The Green power light stays on
and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to
it.

I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in
for. Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart.

There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not
sure.

Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it?

Most likely bad capacitors in the inverter (or the bulk
supply feeding it). There are a HUGE number of Dell variants
so you might be able to find a similar monitor with a different
set of "trailing letters" in the model number (I've never
bothered to sort out the presumed meaning of all these
variations)

Most of these cases snap together. A very small slotted
screwdriver and/or one of the "blanks" used to fill an
empty "card slot" in a PC is invaluable.

Find a seam between the front and rear halves of the
display's case. *Think* about how the two pieces
are probably fitted together (i.e., one fits inside/behind
the other). Then, slide your tool into the seam and
*gently* pry them apart.

You can usually slide the tool along the seam until you
can "feel" where the catches are located. Usually, there
is symmetry -- the catches on the left side are placed in the
same locations as those along the right edge; ditto for
top and bottom (within reason). Also, there tends to be symmetry
about the vertical and horizontal axes -- so, if there is a catch
1" down (from the top) the left side, there is probably one 1"
*up* (from the bottom) on that side.

Experiment along the bottom -- someplace where your mistakes
aren't as cosmetically visible. (remember, plastic deforms easily
so you can easily gouge it with your tool).

Good luck!

Thanks, am fighting a really bad summer cold right now and am not really
up to messing with it.. But in the next day or so I will probably feel
well enough to take a crack at it...

Appreciated everyones input!

On Tue, 06 Oct 2009 18:19:51 -0500, Samantha
wrote:

I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after
about a second after it is powered on. The Green power light stays on
and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to
it.

The LCD backlighting inverter has died. Everything else is probably
just fine. The really tiny inverters are tricky to repair as a
shorted turn on the xformer will usually blow up all the switching
FET's. However, this one is big and easy to work on. I still suggest
replacement. Tear apart the monitor and get the part number off the
LCD inverter. Then search eBay and Google for a scrap replacement.
One of these looks right:
http://www.lcdrepair.us/e152-e153fpc-inverter-power.html $40.
http://www.lcdrepair.us/e152-e153fpc-inverter-power-2.html $30

I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in
for. Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart.

There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not
sure.

Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it?

Bulging and leaking electrolytic caps are the most common problem.
Look at the board and you'll see about 8 electrolytic capacitors. If
they're even slighly bulging, they're bad. I'm lazy and replace them
all rather than trying to figure out which ones are blown. However,
with LCD inverters, the switching FET's are also commonly fried. If
replacing the caps doesn't work, I suggest just buying a replacement
board..

Would greatly appreciate any help.

Ummm.... you've heard of Google perhaps?

http://video.google.com/videosearch?hl=en&source=hp&q=lcd+monitor+repair#
http://www.lcd-monitor-repair.com
Lots more when searching for "LCD monitor repair".

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

On Wed, 07 Oct 2009 16:20:12 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Oct 2009 18:19:51 -0500, Samantha
wrote:

I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after
about a second after it is powered on. The Green power light stays on
and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to
it.

The LCD backlighting inverter has died. Everything else is probably
just fine. The really tiny inverters are tricky to repair as a
shorted turn on the xformer will usually blow up all the switching
FET's. However, this one is big and easy to work on. I still suggest
replacement. Tear apart the monitor and get the part number off the
LCD inverter. Then search eBay and Google for a scrap replacement.
One of these looks right:
http://www.lcdrepair.us/e152-e153fpc-inverter-power.html $40.
http://www.lcdrepair.us/e152-e153fpc-inverter-power-2.html $30

I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in
for. Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart.

There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not
sure.

Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it?

Bulging and leaking electrolytic caps are the most common problem.
Look at the board and you'll see about 8 electrolytic capacitors. If
they're even slighly bulging, they're bad. I'm lazy and replace them
all rather than trying to figure out which ones are blown. However,
with LCD inverters, the switching FET's are also commonly fried. If
replacing the caps doesn't work, I suggest just buying a replacement
board..

Would greatly appreciate any help.

Ummm.... you've heard of Google perhaps?

http://video.google.com/videosearch?hl=en&source=hp&q=lcd+monitor+repair#
http://www.lcd-monitor-repair.com
Lots more when searching for "LCD monitor repair".
Most of the monitor repair sites are nothiing more than an attempt to
sell an overpriced book 'How to repair LCD monitors'.

This specific problem is often referred to as the 'two seconds to
black' failure. A quick explanation of the operation of most
inverters, and the failu The inverter has a controller IC that
generates the signals that drive the transformers AND monitors the
voltage and current outputs of the inverter. Usually the start up
sequence consists of driving the CCFL backlights at full brightness
for several seconds, then beginning to monitor the output voltage
across and current through each CCFL. If the output voltage is too
high or too low, or if the current is too high, for any CCFL the
controller will shut down.

Possible causes of this problem include bad CCFLs, a shorted
transformer, breakdown of insulation in the wiring, or bad components
in the monitoring circuits. The Dell E152FPc and related models use
an unusual design in the inverter driver; a bad transistor can also
cause this problem. And yes, bad capacitors could also be
responsible.

This monitor also combines the inverter with the power supply. This
makes replacement difficult unless you can obtain a non-working
identical monitor inexpensively. Buying through eBay is usually
impractical. The cost of shipping is prohibitive.

Rather than spending the time and money to repair a 15" monitor in the
USA I usually suggest watching the local Craigslist and Freecycle
sites for somone giving away 'dead' LCD monitors. Currently I am
using a 23" wide screen monitor I purchased for $15, and repaired by
replacing ALL electrolytic caps at a cost of $7. My lates acquisition
was a 19" Dell which had a broken power button. Not only was it a
simple repair, the donor DELIVERED it!!!

One site I STRONGLY recommend is www.badcaps.net/forum. They have
extensive discussions on repairing many LCD monitors, including this
one. Registration is required to post, but is free.

PlainBill

On Oct 6, 6:19*pm, Samantha wrote:
I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after
about a second after it is powered on. *The Green power light stays on
and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to
it. *

I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in
for. *Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart.

There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not
sure.

Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it?

Would greatly appreciate any help.

Thanks so much!!!

S.

I recently repaired 3 E153FP's, which I believe are virtually
identical.

The problem was a 1000uF, 16 volt capacitor, used for the power
supply. It had excessively high ESR, and I am assuming it caused
excessively high ripple voltage which was making the LCD's control
circuitry wack out (that's my very technical description of what I
thought was going on, ha ha). I replaced the same cap on all 3 - It
was easy to identify, about the largest cap on the board, the PCB
material was darkened around it, and the top of the cap was bulged.

Good luck! The 3 I fixed had the exact same symptom you describe, and
have been back in service for about 3 months with no further problems.

-Jake

Jake wrote:
On Oct 6, 6:19 pm, Samantha wrote:
I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after
about a second after it is powered on. The Green power light stays on
and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to
it.

I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in
for. Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart.

There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not
sure.

Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it?

Would greatly appreciate any help.

Thanks so much!!!

I recently repaired 3 E153FP's, which I believe are virtually
identical.

Dell has subtle variations in these monitors -- none that I
have been able to *quickly* identify (at least not enough
that I could open one and determine which model it was just
by examining its contents!)

The problem was a 1000uF, 16 volt capacitor, used for the power
supply. It had excessively high ESR, and I am assuming it caused
excessively high ripple voltage which was making the LCD's control
circuitry wack out (that's my very technical description of what I
thought was going on, ha ha). I replaced the same cap on all 3 - It
was easy to identify, about the largest cap on the board, the PCB
material was darkened around it, and the top of the cap was bulged.

The PCB darkening is usually from the nearby switching transistor.
When replacing the cap(s), select high temperature devices (105C)
from "reputable" manufacturers (I like panasonic). You want a low
ESR cap on most of these applications -- something "designed for
switching applications" (I like the FM series as a reasonable
cost/performance point). Note that you can also purchase
different *grades* of "low ESR caps". So, if you are repairing
a particularly "cherry" monitor for your *own* use, you might
opt for something rated at ~10,000 hours (instead of ~5,000).

Also, pay careful attention to the *height* of the component!
I've been bitten by components that were just a bit too tall
to fit back into the case (*with* the metalic shield installed).
Lead spacing is also a concern but usually something you can
work around.

Good luck! The 3 I fixed had the exact same symptom you describe, and
have been back in service for about 3 months with no further problems.

It probably wouldn't hurt to examine the other caps on the board
for "likely future failures". Certain manufacturers tend to
have lots of early failures (I joke that "Xom" in the name
means "gonna crap out soon"). Since most of the "cost" of
the repair is getting the unit apart and then back together,
the extra time and expense to replace all likely candidates
seems justifiable.

On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 08:59:47 -0700, D Yuniskis
wrote:

Jake wrote:
On Oct 6, 6:19 pm, Samantha wrote:
I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after
about a second after it is powered on. The Green power light stays on
and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to
it.

I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in
for. Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart.

There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not
sure.

Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it?

Would greatly appreciate any help.

Thanks so much!!!

I recently repaired 3 E153FP's, which I believe are virtually
identical.

Dell has subtle variations in these monitors -- none that I
have been able to *quickly* identify (at least not enough
that I could open one and determine which model it was just
by examining its contents!)

The problem was a 1000uF, 16 volt capacitor, used for the power
supply. It had excessively high ESR, and I am assuming it caused
excessively high ripple voltage which was making the LCD's control
circuitry wack out (that's my very technical description of what I
thought was going on, ha ha). I replaced the same cap on all 3 - It
was easy to identify, about the largest cap on the board, the PCB
material was darkened around it, and the top of the cap was bulged.

The PCB darkening is usually from the nearby switching transistor.
When replacing the cap(s), select high temperature devices (105C)
from "reputable" manufacturers (I like panasonic). You want a low
ESR cap on most of these applications -- something "designed for
switching applications" (I like the FM series as a reasonable
cost/performance point). Note that you can also purchase
different *grades* of "low ESR caps". So, if you are repairing
a particularly "cherry" monitor for your *own* use, you might
opt for something rated at ~10,000 hours (instead of ~5,000).

Also, pay careful attention to the *height* of the component!
I've been bitten by components that were just a bit too tall
to fit back into the case (*with* the metalic shield installed).
Lead spacing is also a concern but usually something you can
work around.

Good luck! The 3 I fixed had the exact same symptom you describe, and
have been back in service for about 3 months with no further problems.

It probably wouldn't hurt to examine the other caps on the board
for "likely future failures". Certain manufacturers tend to
have lots of early failures (I joke that "Xom" in the name
means "gonna crap out soon"). Since most of the "cost" of
the repair is getting the unit apart and then back together,
the extra time and expense to replace all likely candidates
seems justifiable.
As a rule of thumb, when a monitor has a defective cap, I will replace
the lot of them. As you point out, it's not worth the risk of having
to open the monitor up again.

I prefer Panasonic FM or FC series for replacements. Purchasing from
Digikey, I can redo an entire monitor for under $10, including
shipping. (OK, I seldom replace the 100 µF 450 Volt cap).

PlainBill

wrote:

As a rule of thumb, when a monitor has a defective cap, I will replace
the lot of them. As you point out, it's not worth the risk of having
to open the monitor up again.

I prefer Panasonic FM or FC series for replacements. Purchasing from
Digikey, I can redo an entire monitor for under $10, including
shipping. (OK, I seldom replace the 100 µF 450 Volt cap).

I've only seen one of these "bad" (in about 100 monitors).
Despite the fact that they are often manufacture by the same
company who manufactures the other (crappy) caps on the
board! I guess the ripple currents are not as large (?)

On Thu, 08 Oct 2009 13:00:17 -0700, D Yuniskis
wrote:

wrote:

As a rule of thumb, when a monitor has a defective cap, I will replace
the lot of them. As you point out, it's not worth the risk of having
to open the monitor up again.

I prefer Panasonic FM or FC series for replacements. Purchasing from
Digikey, I can redo an entire monitor for under $10, including
shipping. (OK, I seldom replace the 100 µF 450 Volt cap).

I've only seen one of these "bad" (in about 100 monitors).
Despite the fact that they are often manufacture by the same
company who manufactures the other (crappy) caps on the
board! I guess the ripple currents are not as large (?)
The large (rectified mains filter) is handling 120 Hz ripple (and the
pulses from the SMPS). The filter caps on the secondary are handling
100 KHz or greater ripple. As I understand the problem, the ripple
current will cause heating (duh!), which will cause the ESR to rise,
causing more heating, until eventually a poorly made cap will vent.

The mains filter cap has several advantages - much lower current and
much more surface area to dissipate the heat.

PlainBill

On Oct 6, 6:19*pm, Samantha wrote:
I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after
about a second after it is powered on. *The Green power light stays on
and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to
it. *

I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in
for. *Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart.

There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not
sure.

Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it?

Would greatly appreciate any help.

Thanks so much!!!

S.

I recently repaired 3 E153FP's, which I believe are virtually
identical.

The problem was a 1000uF, 16 volt capacitor, used for the power
supply. It had excessively high ESR, and I am assuming it caused
excessively high ripple voltage which was making the LCD's control
circuitry wack out (that's my very technical description of what I
thought was going on, ha ha). I replaced the same cap on all 3 - It
was easy to identify, about the largest cap on the board, the PCB
material was darkened around it, and the top of the cap was bulged.

Good luck! The 3 I fixed had the exact same symptom you describe, and
have been back in service for about 3 months with no further problems.

-Jake

On Oct 6, 6:19*pm, Samantha wrote:
I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after
about a second after it is powered on. *The Green power light stays on
and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to
it. *

I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in
for. *Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart.

There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not
sure.

Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it?

Would greatly appreciate any help.

Thanks so much!!!

S.

I recently repaired 3 E153FP's, which I believe are virtually
identical.

The problem was a 1000uF, 16 volt capacitor, used for the power
supply. It had excessively high ESR, and I am assuming it caused
excessively high ripple voltage which was making the LCD's control
circuitry wack out (that's my very technical description of what I
thought was going on, ha ha). I replaced the same cap on all 3 - It
was easy to identify, about the largest cap on the board, the PCB
material was darkened around it, and the top of the cap was bulged.

Good luck! The 3 I fixed had the exact same symptom you describe, and
have been back in service for about 3 months with no further problems.

-Jake

In article
,
Jake wrote:

On Oct 6, 6:19*pm, Samantha wrote:
I have a Dell E152FPc Flat screen Monitor 15" that goes black after
about a second after it is powered on. *The Green power light stays on
and the color bar test pattern is there if you stick a flash light up to
it. *

I have never had one of these apart and am not really sure what I am in
for. *Just looking at it, I don't see any obvious way to take it apart.

There are some screws to take off the stand, but after that I am not
sure.

Anybody ever take one of these apart and fix it?

Would greatly appreciate any help.

Thanks so much!!!

S.

I recently repaired 3 E153FP's, which I believe are virtually
identical.

The problem was a 1000uF, 16 volt capacitor, used for the power
supply. It had excessively high ESR, and I am assuming it caused
excessively high ripple voltage which was making the LCD's control
circuitry wack out (that's my very technical description of what I
thought was going on, ha ha). I replaced the same cap on all 3 - It
was easy to identify, about the largest cap on the board, the PCB
material was darkened around it, and the top of the cap was bulged.

Good luck! The 3 I fixed had the exact same symptom you describe, and
have been back in service for about 3 months with no further problems.

-Jake

That is the same same with this one. Found a suitable replacement and
done. Thanks!!

Just want to extend my thanks to all those that answered my post.
Didn't find much online when I went and searched for it. This is the
first time I have had had one of these apart and didn't really know what
to expect. It belongs to my aunt and I said I would take a quick look
at it.

The bad cap list was a good tip, really appreciate that, as well as the
PDF on how to disassemble the monitor.

Tomorrow is a pretty full day for me so I hope to be feeling up to
pulling this apart by saturday.

Thanks again.

S.

Took the time today to open that monitor. It went pretty smoothly,
found all the tabs with the help of a small spackle knife. Found the
buldging 1000uf 16v capacitor. Found a replacement on an old board from
a TV and swapped the two. I have the monitor on and the test pattern up
now. Have let it set for about an hour now. Will leave it for a few
more to make sure nothing else happens...

Want to give you all a lot of thanks for the help. I probably would
have stumbled around inside there for quite awhile before I really
figured out how it work.

Knowing how something breaks (common failures) is invaluable when trying
to troubleshoot something.

Thanks to all!!

S.

Samantha wrote:

Took the time today to open that monitor. It went pretty smoothly,
found all the tabs with the help of a small spackle knife. Found the
buldging 1000uf 16v capacitor. Found a replacement on an old board from
a TV and swapped the two. I have the monitor on and the test pattern up
now. Have let it set for about an hour now. Will leave it for a few
more to make sure nothing else happens...

Want to give you all a lot of thanks for the help. I probably would
have stumbled around inside there for quite awhile before I really
figured out how it work.

Knowing how something breaks (common failures) is invaluable when trying
to troubleshoot something.

Thanks to all!!

S.
Maybe you might already be aware of this ? but I'll spit it out
in case some one else here may benefit from it.

When ever replacing caps found bad like that, in inverter supplies,
it's a good idea to make sure you use computer grade or some sort of
low ESR types. This is one of the problems that plague these types of
circuits and high ESR just pushing it along faster making the cap run
warm.

Samantha wrote in news:samantha-
:

Took the time today to open that monitor. It went pretty smoothly,
found all the tabs with the help of a small spackle knife. Found the
buldging 1000uf 16v capacitor. Found a replacement on an old board from
a TV and swapped the two. I have the monitor on and the test pattern up
now. Have let it set for about an hour now. Will leave it for a few
more to make sure nothing else happens...

Want to give you all a lot of thanks for the help. I probably would
have stumbled around inside there for quite awhile before I really
figured out how it work.

Knowing how something breaks (common failures) is invaluable when trying
to troubleshoot something.

Thanks to all!!

S.


Congratulations! it feels good,doesn't it?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

Samantha wrote:
Took the time today to open that monitor. It went pretty smoothly,
found all the tabs with the help of a small spackle knife. Found the
buldging 1000uf 16v capacitor. Found a replacement on an old board from
a TV and swapped the two. I have the monitor on and the test pattern up
now. Have let it set for about an hour now. Will leave it for a few
more to make sure nothing else happens...

Chances are (?), the "replacement cap" was not a high temperature
device (though it might be... depends on where you cound it in
the TV). You really want 105degree (C) devices as they tend
to be higher reliability in these applications. Otherwise,
you'll be replacing *it* soon!

Also, check the manufacturer on the (bad) cap. Chances are there are
a few other caps made by the same manufacturer on that board.
Often best to just replace them all (I realize you are unlikely
to find replacements for all of them on that "TV board" -- but,
if you have to order a hi-temp cap you might as well order
the rest of them if you want to keep the display running for
any length of time) Omit the 400V cap as it seldom fails.

Panasonic FM series caps seem to be a good tradeoff between
cost and reliability. DOUBLE CHECK COMPONENT HEIGHTS/WIDTHS
so you don't end up ordering things that won't fit!

Want to give you all a lot of thanks for the help. I probably would
have stumbled around inside there for quite awhile before I really
figured out how it work.

Knowing how something breaks (common failures) is invaluable when trying
to troubleshoot something.

Exactly. I use repair experiences to guide me in determining
what to avoid when *designing* stuff.

On Wed, 07 Oct 2009 08:27:36 -0400, Meat Plow
wrote:

Weakest link = inverters. Verify voltage source first, forget what
they usually run but a guess would be around 20 vdc?

Now I know why we used to kill off a tech a year in the 2-way biz in
Smog Angeles during the 60's and 70's. They didn't know low from high
voltage. Duz the big fat insulation on the output leads offer a clue?

Try about 500-700VDC output.
http://www.fonerbooks.com/test.htm
The frequency range is also a problem. These bests run around
30-70Khz which is often beyond the upper frequency range of the
typical DVG (Digital-Volts-Guesser). I'm not sure if the high
frequency or the high voltage did the damage but I've killed at least
2 cheapo (Harbor Freight) DVM's measuring LCD inverter output. I've
also managed to get electrocuted several times, mostly due to haste,
sloppiness, clip leads, or all the aformentioned.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

Jeff Liebermann wrote in
:

On Wed, 07 Oct 2009 08:27:36 -0400, Meat Plow
wrote:

Weakest link = inverters. Verify voltage source first, forget what
they usually run but a guess would be around 20 vdc?

Now I know why we used to kill off a tech a year in the 2-way biz in
Smog Angeles during the 60's and 70's. They didn't know low from high
voltage. Duz the big fat insulation on the output leads offer a clue?

Try about 500-700VDC output.

I think he was talking about INPUT DC being ~20VDC


http://www.fonerbooks.com/test.htm
The frequency range is also a problem. These bests run around
30-70Khz which is often beyond the upper frequency range of the
typical DVG (Digital-Volts-Guesser). I'm not sure if the high
frequency or the high voltage did the damage but I've killed at least
2 cheapo (Harbor Freight) DVM's measuring LCD inverter output.

Because they are only 1 Meg input Z.
I took one apart to check it,was debating redoing the divider to 10MegR
total.Also,the AC section will not handle freqs over 1 Khz.

I've
also managed to get electrocuted several times, mostly due to haste,
sloppiness, clip leads, or all the aformentioned.

Not "electrocuted",but shocked.
"electrocution" is to KILL with electricity. Since you're still posting,you
aren't killed. ;-)




BTW,you can make a nifty HV probe for a 10Meg DMM by using a string of
22.5Meg 1% metal film R's to make 90 MegR,and putting it inside a plastic
tube like an old tuning tool,solder to a 6-32 screw and threaded 1/4" hex
spacer,a wire lead with banana plug on the other end,and use an old TEK 500
series probe hook-tip,or other TEK accessory tips.
Makes a nice 10:1 probe,and 100 MegR doesn't load the HV supplies so much.

I've used mine for a couple of decades.


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

Jim Yanik wrote:
Jeff Liebermann

I've
also managed to get electrocuted several times, mostly due to haste,
sloppiness, clip leads, or all the aformentioned.

Not "electrocuted",but shocked.
"electrocution" is to KILL with electricity. Since you're still posting,you
aren't killed. ;-)

Unless he is one of the new fast walking zombies (thanks Two and a Half Men).

Michael