Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
I'm repairing a Midas Venice mixing console. Try and avoid doing so.
It's a nightmare Despite the agent's tech insisting that the 'solo' switches are 'self cleaning', no amount of exercising them will prevent 2 of them behaving intermittently. They are pcb vertical mount types, i.e. the control surface is a series of large flat double sided boards. From appearance I guessed the switches to be ALPS but the German parts list gives the following reference as best as I can decode it. SCHALTER-TAST 4XUM 1 switch 4pdt It's a latching type btw. Any help sourcing same would be appreciated. I only need 2 but knowing this beast one or two more might pack up ! Thanks, Graham |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
On Sun, 07 Sep 2008 07:57:12 +0100, Eeyore
put finger to keyboard and composed: SCHALTER-TAST 4XUM 1 switch 4pdt I suspect 4xUM means 4PDT, and SCHALTER-TAST means switch-tactile. - Franc Zabkar -- Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email. |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
On Sun, 07 Sep 2008 18:18:55 +1000, Franc Zabkar
put finger to keyboard and composed: On Sun, 07 Sep 2008 07:57:12 +0100, Eeyore put finger to keyboard and composed: SCHALTER-TAST 4XUM 1 switch 4pdt I suspect 4xUM means 4PDT, and SCHALTER-TAST means switch-tactile. http://www.babylon.com/definition/Tastschalter/English Tastschalter n. push button, press button, electric switch that operates via a pressing - Franc Zabkar -- Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email. |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Franc Zabkar wrote: Eeyore put finger to keyboard and composed: SCHALTER-TAST 4XUM 1 switch 4pdt I suspect 4xUM means 4PDT, and SCHALTER-TAST means switch-tactile. That sounds very likely indeed. I'd imagined SCHALTER might be the brand but that puts a new light on it. However browsing the ALPS website which I took to be the best bet, I couldn't find any 4 pole switches of that style. Maybe I'll look again. Many thanks anyway. Graham |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Franc Zabkar wrote: Franc Zabkar put finger to keyboard and composed: Eeyore put finger to keyboard and composed: SCHALTER-TAST 4XUM 1 switch 4pdt I suspect 4xUM means 4PDT, and SCHALTER-TAST means switch-tactile. http://www.babylon.com/definition/Tastschalter/English Tastschalter n. push button, press button, electric switch that operates via a pressing Indeed it is. Graham |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Soundhaspriority wrote: "Eeyore" wrote I'm repairing a Midas Venice mixing console. Try and avoid doing so. It's a nightmare Despite the agent's tech insisting that the 'solo' switches are 'self cleaning', no amount of exercising them will prevent 2 of them behaving intermittently. They are pcb vertical mount types, i.e. the control surface is a series of large flat double sided boards. From appearance I guessed the switches to be ALPS but the German parts list gives the following reference as best as I can decode it. SCHALTER-TAST 4XUM 1 switch 4pdt It's a latching type btw. Any help sourcing same would be appreciated. I only need 2 but knowing this beast one or two more might pack up ! Thanks, Graham I have a bunch of finds, none of which may be relevant, but I pass them on to you. The most interesting is http://www.henri-electronic.de/start.php?P_989.php, which depicts a bat-handle Schalter 4XUM. Nope, none of those. That's when consoles had 'real' switches instead of using consumer parts ! You'll find those on my first home-made desk. Have a look at the below link. From what I gather, the actual brand is "Schalter", which is owned by Assmann. "Tast" is German for "test", which I suppose is actually a colloquial expression of a function, I don't know what. Page down. Besides the DIP switches, there is a type called a "taster." http://www.bimel.com.tr/urun/pdf/ass...c-switches.pdf Those are the small low profile tact(ile) switches. This one is much taller. Also, google for "SCHALTER 4XUM" No luck with that other than blind alleys. From Franc's comments I'm thinking again it may be more likely to be an ALPS part that I didn't see in the online catalogue. Midas do make a point of using ALPS parts. Graham |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Soundhaspriority schrieb:
Have a look at the below link. From what I gather, the actual brand is "Schalter", which is owned by Assmann. "Tast" is German for "test", which I suppose is actually a colloquial expression of a function, I don't know what. Schalter means switch. "Tast" is most probably an abbreviation for "Taster", which is a switch that closes (or opens) the connection only as long as you push it, rather than making the connection until you push it again. What would be the English term for that kind of switch? The German word for "test" is "test" as well. Best from Germany ;-) Boris -- http://www.borislau.de - computer science, music, photos |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Boris Lau wrote: Soundhaspriority schrieb: Have a look at the below link. From what I gather, the actual brand is "Schalter", which is owned by Assmann. "Tast" is German for "test", which I suppose is actually a colloquial expression of a function, I don't know what. Schalter means switch. "Tast" is most probably an abbreviation for "Taster", which is a switch that closes (or opens) the connection only as long as you push it, rather than making the connection until you push it again. What would be the English term for that kind of switch? Momentary as opposed to latching. But this is actually a latching switch. Maybe I selected the wrong part number. Graham |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Eeyore wrote:
But this is actually a latching switch. Maybe I selected the wrong part number. Let me know if you need more German assistance ;-) Boris |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
"Eeysore" I'm repairing a Midas Venice mixing console. Try and avoid doing so. It's a nightmare Despite the agent's tech insisting that the 'solo' switches are 'self cleaning', no amount of exercising them will prevent 2 of them behaving intermittently. ** Obviously YOU lack the necessary Midas touch !!!!! Maybe just a little WD40 down the shaft will do the trick - not a whole flood of it mind you. Don't want that precious console to wind up looking like Venice..... ...... Phil ;-) |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Boris Lau wrote:
Soundhaspriority schrieb: Have a look at the below link. From what I gather, the actual brand is "Schalter", which is owned by Assmann. "Tast" is German for "test", which I suppose is actually a colloquial expression of a function, I don't know what. Schalter means switch. "Tast" is most probably an abbreviation for "Taster", which is a switch that closes (or opens) the connection only as long as you push it, rather than making the connection until you push it again. What would be the English term for that kind of switch? The German word for "test" is "test" as well. Best from Germany ;-) Boris Momentary ? That is a switch you must hold and will release (off) when you left go. http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5" |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
On Sun, 07 Sep 2008 09:50:03 +0100, Eeyore
put finger to keyboard and composed: Franc Zabkar wrote: Franc Zabkar put finger to keyboard and composed: Eeyore put finger to keyboard and composed: SCHALTER-TAST 4XUM 1 switch 4pdt I suspect 4xUM means 4PDT, and SCHALTER-TAST means switch-tactile. http://www.babylon.com/definition/Tastschalter/English Tastschalter n. push button, press button, electric switch that operates via a pressing Indeed it is. Graham After some searching, it appears that the term "4xUM" is often associated with relays. I now believe that "UM" is an abbreviation for "umschaltung" which translates to "changeover". See http://www.dict.cc/german-english/Umschaltung.html So 4xUM = 4PCO = 4PDT, ie you have a pushbutton switch with 4 pole changeover contacts. But of course you already knew that from the outset ... :-) BTW, my favourite switch lubricant/cleaner is Philips 390CCS. - Franc Zabkar -- Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email. |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Phil Allison wrote:
"Eeysore" I'm repairing a Midas Venice mixing console. Try and avoid doing so. It's a nightmare Despite the agent's tech insisting that the 'solo' switches are 'self cleaning', no amount of exercising them will prevent 2 of them behaving intermittently. ** Obviously YOU lack the necessary Midas touch !!!!! Maybe just a little WD40 down the shaft will do the trick - not a whole flood of it mind you. Don't want that precious console to wind up looking like Venice..... ..... Phil ;-) WD-40 (fish oil as main ingredient or used to be) dries out. Spraying the contacts for suspected electrical issues, only temporarily fixes, and normally makes it worse afterwards. Since most chemicals tend to deteriorate the contact surfaces and allows for pitted areas that no longer receives regular wiping from the switch action, erosion sets in. For proper restoration, switch contacts and surface ways need to be polished and optionally copper antioxidant applied as used in wire drawing operations. http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5" |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
"Jamie" = Maynard A. Philbrook, KA1LPA A radio ham & demented coder scribbler by trade. Phil Allison: ** Obviously YOU lack the necessary Midas touch !!!!! Maybe just a little WD40 down the shaft will do the trick - not a whole flood of it mind you. Don't want that precious console to wind up looking like Venice..... ..... Phil ;-) WD-40 (fish oil as main ingredient or used to be) dries out. ** WD40 residue is ordinary light oil - whether it evaporates depends on ambient temperature and local air flow. At room temp and with no virtually no air flow, that takes years. Spraying the contacts for suspected electrical issues, only temporarily fixes, and normally makes it worse afterwards. ** The idea is to clean the surfaces and flush away contaminants. Nothing to do with mysterious "electrical issues ". Since most chemicals tend to deteriorate the contact surfaces ** Light mineral oil is not a corrosive "chemical" - you fool. and allows for pitted areas that no longer receives regular wiping from the switch action, erosion sets in. ** A coating of light oil protects the metal surfaces by excluding moisture and air - you colossally stupid ASS . Go away. ....... Phil |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
On Sep 7, 4:05 pm, Jamie
t wrote: Phil Allison wrote: "Eeysore" I'm repairing a Midas Venice mixing console. Try and avoid doing so. It's a nightmare Despite the agent's tech insisting that the 'solo' switches are 'self cleaning', no amount of exercising them will prevent 2 of them behaving intermittently. ** Obviously YOU lack the necessary Midas touch !!!!! Maybe just a little WD40 down the shaft will do the trick - not a whole flood of it mind you. Don't want that precious console to wind up looking like Venice..... ..... Phil ;-) WD-40 (fish oil as main ingredient or used to be) dries out. Spraying the contacts for suspected electrical issues, only temporarily fixes, and normally makes it worse afterwards. Since most chemicals tend to deteriorate the contact surfaces and allows for pitted areas that no longer receives regular wiping from the switch action, erosion sets in. For proper restoration, switch contacts and surface ways need to be polished and optionally copper antioxidant applied as used in wire drawing operations. http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5" so sorry you posted this as PHIL will enter into his diatribe!!! but you are correct in that wd 40 is not a lubricant! water displacement formula 40. |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Jamie wrote: Phil Allison wrote: "Eeysore" I'm repairing a Midas Venice mixing console. Try and avoid doing so. It's a nightmare Despite the agent's tech insisting that the 'solo' switches are 'self cleaning', no amount of exercising them will prevent 2 of them behaving intermittently. ** Obviously YOU lack the necessary Midas touch !!!!! Maybe just a little WD40 down the shaft will do the trick - not a whole flood of it mind you. Don't want that precious console to wind up looking like Venice..... WD-40 (fish oil as main ingredient or used to be) dries out. Spraying the contacts for suspected electrical issues, only temporarily fixes, and normally makes it worse afterwards. Which is why I won't be doing that. Since most chemicals tend to deteriorate the contact surfaces and allows for pitted areas that no longer receives regular wiping from the switch action, erosion sets in. For proper restoration, switch contacts and surface ways need to be polished and optionally copper antioxidant applied as used in wire drawing operations. Or fit a new switch ! Graham |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Franc Zabkar wrote: Eeyore put finger to keyboard and composed: Franc Zabkar wrote: Franc Zabkar put finger to keyboard and composed: Eeyore put finger to keyboard and composed: SCHALTER-TAST 4XUM 1 switch 4pdt I suspect 4xUM means 4PDT, and SCHALTER-TAST means switch-tactile. http://www.babylon.com/definition/Tastschalter/English Tastschalter n. push button, press button, electric switch that operates via a pressing Indeed it is. After some searching, it appears that the term "4xUM" is often associated with relays. I now believe that "UM" is an abbreviation for "umschaltung" which translates to "changeover". That makes perfect sense. See http://www.dict.cc/german-english/Umschaltung.html So 4xUM = 4PCO = 4PDT, ie you have a pushbutton switch with 4 pole changeover contacts. But of course you already knew that from the outset ... :-) BTW, my favourite switch lubricant/cleaner is Philips 390CCS. I think these 2 are way beyond that. Graham |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Phil Allison wrote: ** Light mineral oil is not a corrosive "chemical" - you fool. It WILL degrade certain plastics. Graham |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Phil Allison wrote:
"Jamie" = Maynard A. Philbrook, KA1LPA A radio ham & demented coder scribbler by trade. Phil Allison: ** Obviously YOU lack the necessary Midas touch !!!!! Maybe just a little WD40 down the shaft will do the trick - not a whole flood of it mind you. Don't want that precious console to wind up looking like Venice..... ..... Phil ;-) WD-40 (fish oil as main ingredient or used to be) dries out. ** WD40 residue is ordinary light oil - whether it evaporates depends on ambient temperature and local air flow. At room temp and with no virtually no air flow, that takes years. Spraying the contacts for suspected electrical issues, only temporarily fixes, and normally makes it worse afterwards. ** The idea is to clean the surfaces and flush away contaminants. Nothing to do with mysterious "electrical issues ". Since most chemicals tend to deteriorate the contact surfaces ** Light mineral oil is not a corrosive "chemical" - you fool. and allows for pitted areas that no longer receives regular wiping from the switch action, erosion sets in. ** A coating of light oil protects the metal surfaces by excluding moisture and air - you colossally stupid ASS . Go away. ...... Phil I can see your all talk and no experience pecker head!.. this just proves it.. http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5" |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
|
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
"Eeysore" Phil Allison wrote: ** Light mineral oil is not a corrosive "chemical" - you fool. It WILL degrade certain plastics. ** Light oil attacks no plastic - FOOL. ...... Phil |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
"Jamie" = Maynard A. Philbrook, KA1LPA A radio ham & demented coder scribbler by trade. And a rabid usenet menace by night. ....... Phil ** Obviously YOU lack the necessary Midas touch !!!!! Maybe just a little WD40 down the shaft will do the trick - not a whole flood of it mind you. Don't want that precious console to wind up looking like Venice..... ..... Phil ;-) WD-40 (fish oil as main ingredient or used to be) dries out. ** WD40 residue is ordinary light oil - whether it evaporates depends on ambient temperature and local air flow. At room temp and with no virtually no air flow, that takes years. Spraying the contacts for suspected electrical issues, only temporarily fixes, and normally makes it worse afterwards. ** The idea is to clean the surfaces and flush away contaminants. Nothing to do with mysterious "electrical issues ". Since most chemicals tend to deteriorate the contact surfaces ** Light mineral oil is not a corrosive "chemical" - you fool. and allows for pitted areas that no longer receives regular wiping from the switch action, erosion sets in. ** A coating of light oil protects the metal surfaces by excluding moisture and air - you colossally stupid ASS . Go away. ...... Phil I can see your all talk and no experience pecker head!.. this just proves it.. http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5" |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
"Eeysore" ... "Jamie" = Maynard A. Philbrook, KA1LPA A radio ham & demented coder scribbler by trade. Phil Allison wrote: "Eeysore" I'm repairing a Midas Venice mixing console. Try and avoid doing so. It's a nightmare Despite the agent's tech insisting that the 'solo' switches are 'self cleaning', no amount of exercising them will prevent 2 of them behaving intermittently. ** Obviously YOU lack the necessary Midas touch !!!!! Maybe just a little WD40 down the shaft will do the trick - not a whole flood of it mind you. Don't want that precious console to wind up looking like Venice..... WD-40 (fish oil as main ingredient or used to be) dries out. Spraying the contacts for suspected electrical issues, only temporarily fixes, and normally makes it worse afterwards. Which is why I won't be doing that. ** Wot an imbecile. ....... Phil |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Phil Allison wrote:
"Jamie" = Maynard A. Philbrook, KA1LPA A radio ham & demented coder scribbler by trade. And a rabid usenet menace by night. ...... Phil Ha, is that all you can muster up boy? I find your lack of creativity on the subject of profound vocabulation , very boring.. It's my opinion and others may agree that Phil, appears to be out to pasture. For some of us, getting old is a real bitch! P.S. Have a good day Philis.. http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5" |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Franc Zabkar wrote:
BTW, my favourite switch lubricant/cleaner is Philips 390CCS. Oh yes! wonderful stuff, but can you still buy it? I`ve been looking for ages, some companies list it but can no longer supply. Ron(UK) |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Phil Allison wrote: "Eeysore" Phil Allison wrote: ** Light mineral oil is not a corrosive "chemical" - you fool. It WILL degrade certain plastics. ** Light oil attacks no plastic - FOOL. Wanna bet ? Graham |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Phil Allison wrote: "Eeysore" ... "Jamie" = Maynard A. Philbrook, KA1LPA Maybe just a little WD40 down the shaft will do the trick - not a whole flood of it mind you. Don't want that precious console to wind up looking like Venice..... WD-40 (fish oil as main ingredient or used to be) dries out. Spraying the contacts for suspected electrical issues, only temporarily fixes, and normally makes it worse afterwards. Which is why I won't be doing that. ** Wot an imbecile. Indeed. Instead I have contacted the sales director of Shuttlesound to find out why his company does not keep adequate spares stock and contacted Bosch/Telex directly to try and identify the switch. Incidentally, despite the wording on the back, it was NOT designed in the UK at all, but entirely by Dynacord. Probably explains the diabolical inter-channel crosstalk. Graham |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
On Mon, 08 Sep 2008 11:40:22 +0100, "Ron(UK)"
put finger to keyboard and composed: Franc Zabkar wrote: BTW, my favourite switch lubricant/cleaner is Philips 390CCS. Oh yes! wonderful stuff, but can you still buy it? I`ve been looking for ages, some companies list it but can no longer supply. Ron(UK) The Philips part number is 4822 389 50125. I get mine he http://www.sselectronics.com.au/Prod...%20389%2050125 Cost is AU$13.23, ex-stock. - Franc Zabkar -- Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email. |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
On Sun, 7 Sep 2008 03:18:19 -0400, "Soundhaspriority"
wrote: Have a look at the below link. From what I gather, the actual brand is "Schalter", which is owned by Assmann. "Tast" is German for "test", which I suppose is actually a colloquial expression of a function, I don't know what. Page down. Besides the DIP switches, there is a type called a "taster." All this talk about Assmanns, DIPs and tasters is getting me excited! |
RESULT ! Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Eeyore wrote: After a few carefully considered phone calls and emails, not least to the manufacturer and the sales director of the agent, the switch has mysteriously appeared 'in stock' ! The spares guy made out he'd been ordering some in all along which is funny since he didn't mention that on Friday ! Graham |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Eeyore wrote in message ... I'm repairing a Midas Venice mixing console. Try and avoid doing so. It's a nightmare Despite the agent's tech insisting that the 'solo' switches are 'self cleaning', no amount of exercising them will prevent 2 of them behaving intermittently. They are pcb vertical mount types, i.e. the control surface is a series of large flat double sided boards. From appearance I guessed the switches to be ALPS but the German parts list gives the following reference as best as I can decode it. SCHALTER-TAST 4XUM 1 switch 4pdt It's a latching type btw. Any help sourcing same would be appreciated. I only need 2 but knowing this beast one or two more might pack up ! Thanks, Graham The Ampex ATR700 decks use a switch that might be the same beast. It is a PCB that slides into the pushbutton. I've seen spares for sale on the net for that switch. You might want to search for ampex parts. AMpex mailing list or something like that. bg |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Franc Zabkar wrote:
On Mon, 08 Sep 2008 11:40:22 +0100, "Ron(UK)" put finger to keyboard and composed: Franc Zabkar wrote: BTW, my favourite switch lubricant/cleaner is Philips 390CCS. Oh yes! wonderful stuff, but can you still buy it? I`ve been looking for ages, some companies list it but can no longer supply. Ron(UK) The Philips part number is 4822 389 50125. I get mine he http://www.sselectronics.com.au/Prod...%20389%2050125 Cost is AU$13.23, ex-stock. Looks like it`s no longer available in dear old Blighty, it`s probly got some evil chemicals in it. Shame cos it was the best switch cleaner I ever tried. Ron |
RESULT ! Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
Eeyore wrote: Eeyore wrote: After a few carefully considered phone calls and emails, not least to the manufacturer and the sales director of the agent, the switch has mysteriously appeared 'in stock' ! The spares guy made out he'd been ordering some in all along which is funny since he didn't mention that on Friday ! Nearly forgot ! Thanks everyone for all the positive input. Graham |
Looking for this switch (Midas Venice solo switch)
bg wrote: Eeyore wrote I'm repairing a Midas Venice mixing console. Try and avoid doing so. It's a nightmare Despite the agent's tech insisting that the 'solo' switches are 'self cleaning', no amount of exercising them will prevent 2 of them behaving intermittently. They are pcb vertical mount types, i.e. the control surface is a series of large flat double sided boards. From appearance I guessed the switches to be ALPS but the German parts list gives the following reference as best as I can decode it. SCHALTER-TAST 4XUM 1 switch 4pdt It's a latching type btw. Any help sourcing same would be appreciated. I only need 2 but knowing this beast one or two more might pack up ! The Ampex ATR700 decks use a switch that might be the same beast. It is a PCB that slides into the pushbutton. I've seen spares for sale on the net for that switch. You might want to search for ampex parts. AMpex mailing list or something like that. Thanks but that doesn't sound like it. I'm fairly confident it's an ALPS (or similar) part. Graham |
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