From a wah-wah pedal only 2 years old so I don't see the point of replacing
with more of the same, as these symptoms are very common.
Poor bypass function and now total failure to switch between on and off
Both 1.8mm x (11 down to 10mm swaged )stainless steel rivets ground off to
separate the halves
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ppsw.jpg
Unless anyone knows differently then I suspect the poor bypass contact is
due to the interior packed with non-conductive grease.
Carling, Mexico is the make of this one , single pole c/o, silver plated
contacts and dumb-bell that can just about be seen in the centre of the top
image,then a locating cup, then compression spring, then brass cup that
seats the end of the swinging arm marked L in the next images. The dumbbell
jumps the 2 contacts at the top of the image and runs along the continuous
lower one.
(not sufficient control over exposure on a basic camnera)
Cleaned the silicone grease out and will replace with heavily graphited
silicone grease,as not used for mains switching here, otherwise 1A 250V / 3A
125V rating. Why silver plating and then non-conductive grease in low
current/ low voltage use ?
There must be a "ball point pen" type latch action in the bush part so the
down action pushes the L arm one way then the other on the next down stroke,
with a click of its action on each upstroke.
Presumably due to wear the underside of the button eventually bottoms
against the end of the threaded part marked V, when L is only half way
across. It needs to go a bit further than half for L to swing across, via
the dumbell/cup spring sub-component action , to the other side.
Slightly tightened a small Jubilee clip around the threaded bush, as a
guide, and hacksawed off about 2mm at the V position, not apparent in these
images, so can be quite neat.

No matter, in this case (not mains use), as will replace the rivets with
Spanish windlass "E string" wire over 2 pins and glued in place. Anyone know
of a source of such small diameter /long rivets for other occassions?

Of course just fixing the lack of switching does not require removing the
rivets

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

plenty of spring in the ompression spring between dumbell and brass cup, so
no lack of contact closure pressure , leading to the bypass problem

just found this concerning Carling switches
http://www.tonefrenzy.com/articles/Boost_Pedal.html
Featured Article :: A comparison of boost pedals :: by Ken Nossardi

Footswitches
One of the first things to go out in a pedal, as many can attest to, is the
footswitch - often, the weak link in the chain. This would appear to be
worth some attention especially considering the prices some of these units
command.

The SD, like many other pedals using the same Carling footswitches, had
footswitch operation problems. Oddly enough, another Z Vex unit this user
tested recently which used the same Carling switch, also had footswitch
operation problems. One manufacturer stated that ever since Carling moved
the production of their footswitches to Mexico (the Z Vex units had Carling
Mexico-produced switches), it appeared the quality of their footswitch
deteriorated. Geoffrey Teese of Real McCoy Custom wahs believes the move to
Mexico was more coincidental and might have more to do with the Carling
workforce knowing how to manipulate the proper manufacturing of a switch
with the machinery used. When Teese was using the Carlings in his wahs (he
is now currently using a switch from CIC), he reported that out of 10 wahs
produced he would have 6 replaced before shipping and over time the other
wahs with Carlings in them are being replaced one-by-one. Zachary Vex of Z
Vex commented, "The tooling they use to make them is getting worn out. Many
of us pedal-makers have complained, but it falls on deaf ears at
Carlingswitch. They just don't care... They know they have the corner on the
market and I've heard they refuse to improve the tooling, which is over 35
[40+] years old. I throw away about 10 per 100 as it is." Yet another
pedal-maker commented, "Out of 1000 switches about 50 were dead right out of
the box and another 50 failed after a short use. I sent them back and will
never buy or recommend them again." This would appear to be a rather high
failure rate for switches to encounter at the production stage not to
mention failures that occur in the field thereafter. A rather disturbing
thought and a frustrating experience when one is on stage in the middle of a
performance and the footswitch decides to act up. Recently, this user
auditioned a fuzz unit by an upcoming boutique pedal-maker that also used
Carling footswitches with operation problems. After reporting the switch
problem to the maker, he mentioned that out of 100 fuzz units produced this
was the only reported problem. However, for reasons unrelated to
reliability, this maker has changed footswitches to one used by many of the
other pedal-makers.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
just found this concerning Carling switches
http://www.tonefrenzy.com/articles/Boost_Pedal.html
Featured Article :: A comparison of boost pedals :: by Ken Nossardi

Footswitches
One of the first things to go out in a pedal, as many can attest to, is
the
footswitch - often, the weak link in the chain. This would appear to be
worth some attention especially considering the prices some of these units
command.

The SD, like many other pedals using the same Carling footswitches, had
footswitch operation problems. Oddly enough, another Z Vex unit this user
tested recently which used the same Carling switch, also had footswitch
operation problems. One manufacturer stated that ever since Carling moved
the production of their footswitches to Mexico (the Z Vex units had
Carling
Mexico-produced switches), it appeared the quality of their footswitch
deteriorated. Geoffrey Teese of Real McCoy Custom wahs believes the move
to
Mexico was more coincidental and might have more to do with the Carling
workforce knowing how to manipulate the proper manufacturing of a switch
with the machinery used. When Teese was using the Carlings in his wahs (he
is now currently using a switch from CIC), he reported that out of 10 wahs
produced he would have 6 replaced before shipping and over time the other
wahs with Carlings in them are being replaced one-by-one. Zachary Vex of Z
Vex commented, "The tooling they use to make them is getting worn out.
Many
of us pedal-makers have complained, but it falls on deaf ears at
Carlingswitch. They just don't care... They know they have the corner on
the
market and I've heard they refuse to improve the tooling, which is over 35
[40+] years old. I throw away about 10 per 100 as it is." Yet another
pedal-maker commented, "Out of 1000 switches about 50 were dead right out
of
the box and another 50 failed after a short use. I sent them back and will
never buy or recommend them again." This would appear to be a rather high
failure rate for switches to encounter at the production stage not to
mention failures that occur in the field thereafter. A rather disturbing
thought and a frustrating experience when one is on stage in the middle of
a
performance and the footswitch decides to act up. Recently, this user
auditioned a fuzz unit by an upcoming boutique pedal-maker that also used
Carling footswitches with operation problems. After reporting the switch
problem to the maker, he mentioned that out of 100 fuzz units produced
this
was the only reported problem. However, for reasons unrelated to
reliability, this maker has changed footswitches to one used by many of
the
other pedal-makers.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



That's all very interesting, but if the switch really is crappily made in
the first place, how is your pulling it to bits and 'remanufacturing' the
defectively made internal parts, going to help ? FWIW, the Maplin switches
are made by Alpha. I've used a few, and not had a problem with them. I have
to say that the music shop that I get most of that sort of work from,
doesn't send me a whole lot of pedals with failed switches. I need to speak
to the owner today. I'll ask him if he has a lot of trouble with the ones he
sells, and if so, is it soon enough in their life, for them to be returned
to his supplier, under warranty.

Arfa

Arfa Daily wrote in message
...

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
just found this concerning Carling switches
http://www.tonefrenzy.com/articles/Boost_Pedal.html
Featured Article :: A comparison of boost pedals :: by Ken Nossardi

Footswitches
One of the first things to go out in a pedal, as many can attest to, is
the
footswitch - often, the weak link in the chain. This would appear to be
worth some attention especially considering the prices some of these
units
command.

The SD, like many other pedals using the same Carling footswitches, had
footswitch operation problems. Oddly enough, another Z Vex unit this
user
tested recently which used the same Carling switch, also had footswitch
operation problems. One manufacturer stated that ever since Carling
moved
the production of their footswitches to Mexico (the Z Vex units had
Carling
Mexico-produced switches), it appeared the quality of their footswitch
deteriorated. Geoffrey Teese of Real McCoy Custom wahs believes the move
to
Mexico was more coincidental and might have more to do with the Carling
workforce knowing how to manipulate the proper manufacturing of a switch
with the machinery used. When Teese was using the Carlings in his wahs
(he
is now currently using a switch from CIC), he reported that out of 10
wahs
produced he would have 6 replaced before shipping and over time the
other
wahs with Carlings in them are being replaced one-by-one. Zachary Vex of
Z
Vex commented, "The tooling they use to make them is getting worn out.
Many
of us pedal-makers have complained, but it falls on deaf ears at
Carlingswitch. They just don't care... They know they have the corner on
the
market and I've heard they refuse to improve the tooling, which is over
35
[40+] years old. I throw away about 10 per 100 as it is." Yet another
pedal-maker commented, "Out of 1000 switches about 50 were dead right
out
of
the box and another 50 failed after a short use. I sent them back and
will
never buy or recommend them again." This would appear to be a rather
high
failure rate for switches to encounter at the production stage not to
mention failures that occur in the field thereafter. A rather disturbing
thought and a frustrating experience when one is on stage in the middle
of
a
performance and the footswitch decides to act up. Recently, this user
auditioned a fuzz unit by an upcoming boutique pedal-maker that also
used
Carling footswitches with operation problems. After reporting the switch
problem to the maker, he mentioned that out of 100 fuzz units produced
this
was the only reported problem. However, for reasons unrelated to
reliability, this maker has changed footswitches to one used by many of
the
other pedal-makers.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



That's all very interesting, but if the switch really is crappily made in
the first place, how is your pulling it to bits and 'remanufacturing' the
defectively made internal parts, going to help ? FWIW, the Maplin
switches
are made by Alpha. I've used a few, and not had a problem with them. I
have
to say that the music shop that I get most of that sort of work from,
doesn't send me a whole lot of pedals with failed switches. I need to
speak
to the owner today. I'll ask him if he has a lot of trouble with the ones
he
sells, and if so, is it soon enough in their life, for them to be returned
to his supplier, under warranty.

Arfa



This particular one is Cry Baby GCB 95.
The poor bypass is also a common problem according to someone known to the
owner, a knowledgable source of such info. Ask him about poor bypass issues.

If there is non-conductive grease in other , otherwise 240V rated switches,
then that could be a generic problem with all switch makes, used for low V,
low A purposes.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

Arfa Daily wrote in message
...

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
just found this concerning Carling switches
http://www.tonefrenzy.com/articles/Boost_Pedal.html
Featured Article :: A comparison of boost pedals :: by Ken Nossardi

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



That's all very interesting, but if the switch really is crappily made in
the first place, how is your pulling it to bits and 'remanufacturing' the
defectively made internal parts, going to help ? FWIW, the Maplin
switches
are made by Alpha. I've used a few, and not had a problem with them. I
have
to say that the music shop that I get most of that sort of work from,
doesn't send me a whole lot of pedals with failed switches. I need to
speak
to the owner today. I'll ask him if he has a lot of trouble with the ones
he
sells, and if so, is it soon enough in their life, for them to be returned
to his supplier, under warranty.

Arfa



If i'd not opened it up, no one would have been the wiser.
I think I agree with the comment in the quote about machine tool wear.
I've not removed the rivet that holds the ratchet mechanism - maybe shown on
a patent site somewhere. I suspect that ratchet mechanism, produced by worn
dies, is just enough to bring that swing lever over to just over half-way
when tested off the production line.
With, now, no reserve for in-use wear.

This foot pedal looks hardly used, even a thin plastic notice stiker on the
rubber footpad is still in perfect condition and fully stuck down, just some
slight image loss over the ribs of the rubber.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

N_Cook wrote:

This particular one is Cry Baby GCB 95.
The poor bypass is also a common problem according to someone known to the
owner, a knowledgable source of such info. Ask him about poor bypass issues.

If there is non-conductive grease in other , otherwise 240V rated switches,
then that could be a generic problem with all switch makes, used for low V,
low A purposes.


If the switch is rated for 240 VAC, then it wasn't made to switch
audio. You need self wiping contacts, not ones that burn away oxide when
switched.


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Michael A. Terrell wrote in message
...

N_Cook wrote:

This particular one is Cry Baby GCB 95.
The poor bypass is also a common problem according to someone known to
the
owner, a knowledgable source of such info. Ask him about poor bypass
issues.

If there is non-conductive grease in other , otherwise 240V rated
switches,
then that could be a generic problem with all switch makes, used for low
V,
low A purposes.


If the switch is rated for 240 VAC, then it wasn't made to switch
audio. You need self wiping contacts, not ones that burn away oxide when
switched.


--
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I thought standard mains electric wiring pattressed switches were wiping
contacts.

Had to clean out the graphite grease - not high enough ohmage between the
static contacts. Stuffed more plain silicone grease in the ratchet section
and left the contacts area dry well low V, low A switches are usually dry.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Michael A. Terrell wrote in message
...

N_Cook wrote:

This particular one is Cry Baby GCB 95.
The poor bypass is also a common problem according to someone known to
the
owner, a knowledgable source of such info. Ask him about poor bypass
issues.

If there is non-conductive grease in other , otherwise 240V rated
switches,
then that could be a generic problem with all switch makes, used for
low
V,
low A purposes.


If the switch is rated for 240 VAC, then it wasn't made to switch
audio. You need self wiping contacts, not ones that burn away oxide when
switched.


--
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Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
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I thought standard mains electric wiring pattressed switches were wiping
contacts.

Had to clean out the graphite grease - not high enough ohmage between the
static contacts. Stuffed more plain silicone grease in the ratchet section
and left the contacts area dry well low V, low A switches are usually dry.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



OK. I spoke to the guy who owns the shop today, and asked him how much
trouble he gets with pedal bypass switches. He expressed considerable
surprise at the question, and said "none, really". He reckons that he sells
hundreds of pedals, and very rarely has any comeback as a result of bad
bypass switches. He has been in the business a long time, and his shop is
very busy. He is a musician himself.

In fact, he said that what he described as "the clunk-clunk hit it with your
foot type switch" was "remarkably reliable considering the amount of use and
abuse it gets with a working band", which was pretty much what I said. He
reckons that the only real problem that he's had, was a couple of years ago
when he had a bunch of 'bad batch' pedals that bounced back and forth
between him and Marshall, who are just up the road from us. So I reckon that
the guy that wrote the article that you cited, is either over-emphasising
the true size of the 'problem' with the switches, or has just been plain
unlucky.

Arfa

N_Cook wrote:

I thought standard mains electric wiring pattressed switches were wiping
contacts.


They are not designed to work with low level signals. A switch or
relay made for that application has a pair of gold plated contacts with
a sharp edge, and mounted at 90° angles so you have a high contact
force. This overcomes the contact resistance of the typical contacts in
a power switch. You can cause low level distortion by using the wrong
type of contacts because a very thin insulating layer can form, and this
leaves a tiny dead band at lower levels.


Had to clean out the graphite grease - not high enough ohmage between the
static contacts. Stuffed more plain silicone grease in the ratchet section
and left the contacts area dry well low V, low A switches are usually dry.


Silicon can cause problems, over time. It was banned from all
mechanical telco exchanges because it caused so many problems.


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Michael A. Terrell wrote in message
m...

N_Cook wrote:

I thought standard mains electric wiring pattressed switches were wiping
contacts.


They are not designed to work with low level signals. A switch or
relay made for that application has a pair of gold plated contacts with
a sharp edge, and mounted at 90° angles so you have a high contact
force. This overcomes the contact resistance of the typical contacts in
a power switch. You can cause low level distortion by using the wrong
type of contacts because a very thin insulating layer can form, and this
leaves a tiny dead band at lower levels.


Had to clean out the graphite grease - not high enough ohmage between
the
static contacts. Stuffed more plain silicone grease in the ratchet
section
and left the contacts area dry well low V, low A switches are usually
dry.


Silicon can cause problems, over time. It was banned from all
mechanical telco exchanges because it caused so many problems.


--
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with porn and junk commercial SPAM


Gold, like silver, in this case is relatively soft/deformable, leaving just
corrodability . No silicone in there now.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/