Is it necesary to repair lifted traces/pads ?

its actually a pad at the end of a trace to mount a wire/pin
connection to another board (not a hole)

if one does need to repair then how does one ree-glue or repair
a lifted trace/pad ?

thanks for any help,
robb

"robb" wrote in message
...
Is it necesary to repair lifted traces/pads ?

its actually a pad at the end of a trace to mount a wire/pin
connection to another board (not a hole)

if one does need to repair then how does one ree-glue or repair
a lifted trace/pad ?

thanks for any help,
robb




I have used super glue (ca).
Be careful when you solder over it, the fumes are nasty.

Tom

On Tue, 9 Oct 2007 17:36:58 -0400, "Tom Biasi"
wrote:


"robb" wrote in message
...
Is it necesary to repair lifted traces/pads ?

its actually a pad at the end of a trace to mount a wire/pin
connection to another board (not a hole)

if one does need to repair then how does one ree-glue or repair
a lifted trace/pad ?

thanks for any help,
robb




I have used super glue (ca).
Be careful when you solder over it, the fumes are nasty.

---
Yeah...

_Cyano_ acrylate


--
JF

"Tom Biasi" wrote in message
...

"robb" wrote in message
...
Is it necesary to repair lifted traces/pads ?

its actually a pad at the end of a trace to mount a wire/pin
connection to another board (not a hole)

if one does need to repair then how does one ree-glue or repair
a lifted trace/pad ?

thanks for any help,
robb




I have used super glue (ca).
Be careful when you solder over it, the fumes are nasty.

Tom


Superglue is relatively nontoxic, it's been used to close wounds, but the
fumes sure do sting.

If the pad is badly lifted I often just use a scrap of resistor lead or wire
wrap wire to jumper the component lead to good trace further up.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:yPSOi.12175$vS1.971@trndny08...

"Tom Biasi" wrote in message
...

"robb" wrote in message
...
Is it necesary to repair lifted traces/pads ?

its actually a pad at the end of a trace to mount a wire/pin
connection to another board (not a hole)

if one does need to repair then how does one ree-glue or repair
a lifted trace/pad ?

thanks for any help,
robb




I have used super glue (ca).
Be careful when you solder over it, the fumes are nasty.

Tom


Superglue is relatively nontoxic, it's been used to close wounds, but the
fumes sure do sting.

If the pad is badly lifted I often just use a scrap of resistor lead or
wire wrap wire to jumper the component lead to good trace further up.
Agreed. One of the boards that I work regularly on, were previously repaired
by an agent whose only soldering equipment appeared to be a gas poker and
some plumber's solder. Many of his previous 'repairs', when they show up
again here, have lifted tracks and pads that just fall away as soon as you
try to remove the bad component that connects to them. I just use the long
leg on the new resistor or whatever to connect back to the nearest undamaged
point - either tracking that's still in place and can be scraped back and
soldered to, or the next genuine solder point up the track.

If a pad is still in place, just 'flapping free' of the board, it can often
be re-attached just by heating and pressing. The original glue will remelt
and stick it enough to work with. I try to avoid superglue as it fumes badly
when heated and is a killer if you get it in your eyes. Remember that
forensic scientists use its fuming and recondensing properties to highlight
otherwise invisible fingerprints ...

Arfa

"Arfa Daily" wrote in message
...

If a pad is still in place, just 'flapping free' of the board,
it can often
be re-attached just by heating and pressing. The original glue
will remelt
and stick it enough to work with. I try to avoid superglue as
it fumes badly
when heated and is a killer if you get it in your eyes.

thanks Arfa,

that was exactly the situation... flapping around
i tried the super glue before i read your post though

in this case the reheat may not have worked as the under side of
pad became contaminated with rosin flux which i flushed before
super gling

thanks for ideas,
robb

robb wrote:

"Arfa Daily" wrote in message
...

If a pad is still in place, just 'flapping free' of the board,

it can often

be re-attached just by heating and pressing. The original glue

will remelt

and stick it enough to work with. I try to avoid superglue as

it fumes badly

when heated and is a killer if you get it in your eyes.


thanks Arfa,

that was exactly the situation... flapping around
i tried the super glue before i read your post though

in this case the reheat may not have worked as the under side of
pad became contaminated with rosin flux which i flushed before
super gling

thanks for ideas,
robb


Loctite 404.. or Plumbers PVC glue.

At the shop, we have some leftover 2 part mix
glue that is now outlawed. You have to wear a
face shield when applying in a very opened or
ventilated area. You place one compound on
one piece while you place the other compound on the
other piece to be joined. Nothing takes place until
you actually join them. You have to be rather quick
in getting them into position correctly. It gives off
a mist that is very toxic. This is for industrial use
only and requires a on sight permit to use it.

Now we can't get any more, but still have a rather good
supply of it. When you need to do things like bonding
Nylon, Teflon etc. that is what we use.






--
"I'm never wrong, once i thought i was, but was mistaken"
Real Programmers Do things like this.
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5

In sci.electronics.repair Arfa Daily wrote:
I just use the long leg on the new resistor or whatever to connect back to
the nearest undamaged point - either tracking that's still in place and
can be scraped back and soldered to, or the next genuine solder point up
the track.

On SMD boards I've used little slivers of RF shielding tape to make new
tracks. It's copper tape with adhesive on one side, you can choose whether
the adhesive is conductive or not. The adhesive is just enough to keep the
pad in place, and probably enough if the component isn't too big. You can
then solder it straight onto the component and an existing track (flux helps
here). The biggest difficulty is avoiding surface tension holding it to the
soldering iron and coming away when you remove the iron. (Using lead-based
solder tends to help here).

Theo

Theo Markettos wrote:

In sci.electronics.repair Arfa Daily wrote:

I just use the long leg on the new resistor or whatever to connect back to
the nearest undamaged point - either tracking that's still in place and
can be scraped back and soldered to, or the next genuine solder point up
the track.


On SMD boards I've used little slivers of RF shielding tape to make new
tracks. It's copper tape with adhesive on one side, you can choose whether
the adhesive is conductive or not. The adhesive is just enough to keep the
pad in place, and probably enough if the component isn't too big. You can
then solder it straight onto the component and an existing track (flux helps
here). The biggest difficulty is avoiding surface tension holding it to the
soldering iron and coming away when you remove the iron. (Using lead-based
solder tends to help here).

Theo

At work, some of the products that get manufactured there uses a copper
tape with an adhesive backing that requires heating prior to be laid on
the surface. I keep a small piece in my drawers when I need to repair a
board. I just cut, press and hold with the soldering iron.

It's a high temperature glue that is inductive heated at process time
while it's being wrapped around a cable core.

The inductive heater and controls was one of my projects and the
mechanical was done by the other skilled personal.

The whole project was credited to a process engineer that did nothing
but probe all us for idea's and had us implement it.

And when it's time to go home for the day, they don't know you
any better than the day of your hire.

That's gratifying to say the least.





--
"I'm never wrong, once i thought i was, but was mistaken"
Real Programmers Do things like this.
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:yPSOi.12175$vS1.971@trndny08...

"robb" wrote in message
...
Is it necesary to repair lifted traces/pads ?


Superglue is relatively nontoxic, it's been used to close
wounds, but the
fumes sure do sting.

If the pad is badly lifted I often just use a scrap of resistor
lead or wire
wrap wire to jumper the component lead to good trace further
up.


Thanks for reply,

the pad lifted after soldering the connection, so i wanted to
stabilize the pad in case i was too rough or so it would not
lean over onto some other trace.

thanks for ideas,
robb

"robb" wrote in
:


"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:yPSOi.12175$vS1.971@trndny08...

"robb" wrote in message
...
Is it necesary to repair lifted traces/pads ?


Superglue is relatively nontoxic, it's been used to close
wounds, but the
fumes sure do sting.

If the pad is badly lifted I often just use a scrap of resistor
lead or wire
wrap wire to jumper the component lead to good trace further
up.


Thanks for reply,

the pad lifted after soldering the connection, so i wanted to
stabilize the pad in case i was too rough or so it would not
lean over onto some other trace.

thanks for ideas,
robb




IMO,the only sure way for pad repair is to set an eyelet.
You get mechanical security that way,and can replace the component again if
necessary without further damage.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"Tom Biasi" writes:

"robb" wrote in message
...
Is it necesary to repair lifted traces/pads ?

its actually a pad at the end of a trace to mount a wire/pin
connection to another board (not a hole)

if one does need to repair then how does one ree-glue or repair
a lifted trace/pad ?

thanks for any help,
robb

I have used super glue (ca).
Be careful when you solder over it, the fumes are nasty.

It's nice to glue the pad back down but more important to make sure
the connection to the trace is secure. Having lifted, it may be
weakened and ready to break off.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

I agree with the former poster that it's better to solder the lead to the
remaining trace. I've done that on several boards, and it's caused no
problems.

"Tom Biasi" wrote in message
...

"robb" wrote in message
...
Is it necesary to repair lifted traces/pads ?


I have used super glue (ca).
Be careful when you solder over it, the fumes are nasty.


Thanks Tom,
component was allready soldered to pad but pad had lifted (too
much heat ?)

so i used the super glue and small spring clamp to press it tight
to board ... worked great.

mabe i should paint a small skull and cross bones on top or
nextt o pad forfuture reference
robb

robb wrote:

Is it necesary to repair lifted traces/pads ?

its actually a pad at the end of a trace to mount a wire/pin
connection to another board (not a hole)

if one does need to repair then how does one ree-glue or repair
a lifted trace/pad ?

thanks for any help,
robb



I get soldered coated adhesive patch strips..
I haven't got any in a while, Radio Shaft use to
sell them.


--
"I'm never wrong, once i thought i was, but was mistaken"
Real Programmers Do things like this.
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5