Fuser quit working on my laser printer. Removed the fuser and found that the
snap-action bimetallic thermostatic switch for the fuser heating element is
open-circuit. I removed it from the fuser and pried it open. Looks brand new.
Reassembled it and it now conducts. Then it opened again. Not reliable enough
to reinstall due to critical job it does. It rides against the cool roller
(not the heated one) and cycles the heating element so as to keep the
temperature constant.

Markings on front:
PW-2N
5214
E150

on rear:
PW-2
PWC

I've googled but only find these in Eastern Europe or China.

Any local suppliers?

Replacement part not available from mfr., and replacement fuser assembly is
not financially viable; it'll cost as much as I paid for the printer.

Thanks.

SparkyGuy wrote in message
obal.net...
Fuser quit working on my laser printer. Removed the fuser and found that
the
snap-action bimetallic thermostatic switch for the fuser heating element
is
open-circuit. I removed it from the fuser and pried it open. Looks brand
new.
Reassembled it and it now conducts. Then it opened again. Not reliable
enough
to reinstall due to critical job it does. It rides against the cool roller
(not the heated one) and cycles the heating element so as to keep the
temperature constant.

Markings on front:
PW-2N
5214
E150

on rear:
PW-2
PWC

I've googled but only find these in Eastern Europe or China.

Any local suppliers?

Replacement part not available from mfr., and replacement fuser assembly
is
not financially viable; it'll cost as much as I paid for the printer.

Thanks.


Are U sure? You could only indirectly control the fuser temp. if there was a
continuous, unvarying , throughput of paper, no stopping and starting.
Is it not just a general output , via air environment, over-temperature cut
out ?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 10:28:23 GMT, SparkyGuy
wrote:

Fuser quit working on my laser printer.

Make and model of hte printer, please.

Make and model of hte printer, please.

Samsung SCX-4100

Thanks.

Are U sure? You could only indirectly control the fuser temp. if there was a
continuous, unvarying , throughput of paper, no stopping and starting.
Is it not just a general output , via air environment, over-temperature cut
out ?

You're probably right. Now that I look at the fuser in the daylight (not in
early hours of the morning) I see that there is what must be a small
thermistor resting on the heated roller. *This* is most likely the feedback
for the heater circuit.

The bimetallic switch must be a over-temp circuit breaker, as you say.

And I now see that they both come in contact with the heated roller, not the
pinch roller (I thought the red roller was high-temp stuff...)

But as for replacement, it's all moot, yes? Or do you have a suggestion re. a
work-around?

Thanks.

http://img12.picsplace.to/img.php?file=img12/1/Thermo.jpg

SparkyGuy wrote:
Fuser quit working on my laser printer. Removed the fuser and found that the
snap-action bimetallic thermostatic switch for the fuser heating element is
open-circuit. I removed it from the fuser and pried it open. Looks brand new.
Reassembled it and it now conducts. Then it opened again. Not reliable enough
to reinstall due to critical job it does. It rides against the cool roller
(not the heated one) and cycles the heating element so as to keep the
temperature constant.

Markings on front:
PW-2N
5214
E150

I am *guessing* that the E150 indicates the temperature.
Take a look at Mouser part # 802-STO-160 to see if
it will work for you. It is normally closed, and
opens when the emperature rises above 155 to 165 F

Ed


on rear:
PW-2
PWC

I've googled but only find these in Eastern Europe or China.

Any local suppliers?

Replacement part not available from mfr., and replacement fuser assembly is
not financially viable; it'll cost as much as I paid for the printer.

Thanks.

ehsjr sez:

I am *guessing* that the E150 indicates the temperature.
Take a look at Mouser part # 802-STO-160 to see if
it will work for you. It is normally closed, and
opens when the emperature rises above 155 to 165 F

Ed

Thanks for your comments, Ed. I saw that one but would like to find a direct
replacement without having to hack off tabs, etc (original has no separate
mounting tabs; the connection tabs are use for screw mounting also).

Also, fuser assembly gets up to high 300f+ so I, too, am guessing at the temp
rating. 150f seems a bit low for being in such proximity to the headed roller
(few tenths of an inch). Maybe it's 150c (302f)? It *is* a Japanese
printer...

The nearest Stancor product is 157f (315c)... too high?

The nearest Stancor product is 157f (315c)... too high?

Er... 157c (315f).

SparkyGuy wrote:
ehsjr sez:


I am *guessing* that the E150 indicates the temperature.
Take a look at Mouser part # 802-STO-160 to see if
it will work for you. It is normally closed, and
opens when the emperature rises above 155 to 165 F

Ed


Thanks for your comments, Ed. I saw that one but would like to find a direct
replacement without having to hack off tabs, etc (original has no separate
mounting tabs; the connection tabs are use for screw mounting also).

Also, fuser assembly gets up to high 300f+ so I, too, am guessing at the temp
rating. 150f seems a bit low for being in such proximity to the headed roller
(few tenths of an inch). Maybe it's 150c (302f)? It *is* a Japanese
printer...

The nearest Stancor product is 157f (315c)... too high?


I dunno - but I can commiserate with your situation.
When my toner ran low, I went to Staples to buy a
replacement. 70 dollars! But, serendipity - they had
an entire printer (Brother HL-2040) on sale for $110,
and it's faster and better than the old one. (The price
has dropped on them since I bought, so they are now
$120 not on sale.) Anyway, it worked out well for me,
but $70 for the toner still rankles! Interesting
psychology - I didn't spend $70 and if I had I'd
still be unhappy about it. I spent $110 - $40 more,
and I'm pleased as punch. And it's actually more than
$40 extra when you add in the tax.

Maybe the people who set the prices have an ulterior
motive? (How do you make a "frowny face" icon with
smoke coming out of its ears?)

Ed

I dunno - but I can commiserate with your situation.
When my toner ran low, I went to Staples to buy a
replacement. 70 dollars!

Yeah, just now I looked on Office Depot for toner and it's $85!! And it's a
*tiny* cartridge. Will see what's on sale when this toner runs out (c:

But what kind of world are we making where the economy pushes us to fill
landfills with this stuff? Maybe total recycle (what with RoHS regulation)
every time toner runs out? Hmm... Are disposable computers (with removable
data cartridge) next? Cars?

I use www.inkjetsuperstore.com to get toner for about $32 instead of staples
$80 or so, and it works good.
I won't buy a laser printer without checking to make sure I can get the
toner cheap online somewhere :-)



"ehsjr" wrote in message
news:EyHHh.20963$tf.18635@trndny06...


I dunno - but I can commiserate with your situation.
When my toner ran low, I went to Staples to buy a
replacement. 70 dollars! But, serendipity - they had
an entire printer (Brother HL-2040) on sale for $110,
and it's faster and better than the old one. (The price
has dropped on them since I bought, so they are now
$120 not on sale.) Anyway, it worked out well for me,
but $70 for the toner still rankles! Interesting
psychology - I didn't spend $70 and if I had I'd
still be unhappy about it. I spent $110 - $40 more,
and I'm pleased as punch. And it's actually more than
$40 extra when you add in the tax.

Maybe the people who set the prices have an ulterior
motive? (How do you make a "frowny face" icon with
smoke coming out of its ears?)

Ed

If you are in the US or Canada call Premier Parts -
Phone: 800-668-8778 or Fax: 800-668-8037

They are the Samsung dealer.
The rating for the thermo-fuse is rated in Celius so it is 150C.
I've got quite a few Samsung printers I use for parts so I'll look
and see if I have a fuser or the thermister/thermo-fuse.






SparkyGuy wrote:

Fuser quit working on my laser printer. Removed the fuser and found that the
snap-action bimetallic thermostatic switch for the fuser heating element is
open-circuit. I removed it from the fuser and pried it open. Looks brand new.
Reassembled it and it now conducts. Then it opened again. Not reliable enough
to reinstall due to critical job it does. It rides against the cool roller
(not the heated one) and cycles the heating element so as to keep the
temperature constant.

Markings on front:
PW-2N
5214
E150

on rear:
PW-2
PWC

I've googled but only find these in Eastern Europe or China.

Any local suppliers?

Replacement part not available from mfr., and replacement fuser assembly is
not financially viable; it'll cost as much as I paid for the printer.

Thanks.

Lionel sez:

150c thermal safety fuse.

I found most of what you say to be so.

I disassembled the "fuse" and it turns out to be a single pair of contacts
with a bi-metallic dome (think kid's "cricket" sound toy that you pressed
with your thumb) that opens the contacts. When it cools, the contacts are
supposed to close again. Mine didn't seem to do that.

You're right: there was a buildup of gunk (toner) under the thin teflon (or
whatever) strip that separated the thermistor from the roller. Cleaned that
up with a blast of canned air. Luckily it wasn't sticky at all.

I put the thermal switch back together and installed it All seems to work OK
but I won't put the printer into service until I replace the switch.

Where would you look for one?

Thanks.

Anybody know how do dial down the toner use on this printer? The white space
on the pages seems to be a bit gray, and the build-up of toner under the
thermistor also suggests a slightly "rich mixture".

If it was easy to remove the controller board (or just have access to it) I'd
probably do a little exploring. But the pan that holds the controller PCB is
basically the frame for all the plastic bits to bolt to. It's akin to the
heater core in a car. It is suspected that the heater core is the first part
placed on the assembly line, and the rest of the car is built around it.

Thanks.

In message ,
writes
On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 23:05:08 GMT, ehsjr
wrote:
Usually these discount printers come with a toner cartridge that is
about half full so you will be buying toner pretty soon anyway.
Sometimes I believe they sell printers below cost just to create a
market for toner. I am sure that is true for ink jets
ISTR reading somewhere that Xerox's business plan is to sell consumables
and the hardware is only sold to create the market. Xerox used to give
free printers to companies if they signed up to a contract for
consumables. If toner and ink wasn't so profitable why would
manufacturers go to lengths to prevent people cloning or refilling
cartridges.
--
Clint Sharp

On Thu, 08 Mar 2007 00:57:38 -0500, wrote:

I believe they sell printers below cost just to create a
market for toner. I am sure that is true for ink jets

Kodak marketing: give away the camera and sell the film...

Worked well until there was no film!

On Fri, 09 Mar 2007 11:26:11 +1100, Lionel
wrote:

[snip]

"Some people are alive only because it is illegal to kill them."

Leftist weenies are alive only because it is illegal to kill them ;-)

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

In article ,
wrote:

Usually these discount printers come with a toner cartridge that is
about half full so you will be buying toner pretty soon anyway.
Sometimes I believe they sell printers below cost just to create a
market for toner. I am sure that is true for ink jets

It's not only true, they also have a separate "drum cartridge" (rather
than the old system of toner and drum as one). This would be fine,
except that the pricing there is literally insane: I recently purchased
two complete printers, because the price of the complete printer with
drum cartridge and half-full toner cartridge was _less_ than the drum
cartridge alone. I have two complete chassis for spare parts and/or the
junkyard...I'd offer to send the OP a thermostat, but it's clearly a
different printer (this one reads the hot roller) and there are no
visible markings on it at all (I have not fully disassembled the fuser
assembly to see if there are any on the backside of it, but the visible
parts have no markings).

Brother, at least, has also been working to reduce the capacity of their
toners and drums - the 51XX series costs significantly less per page
than the newer 20XX series. Both have the nasty and undesirable behavior
of simply stopping printing when THEY think the toner is low, or the
drum is shot (as does the newer HP we have) rather than advising you
that the toner is low and continuing to print until you don't like the
prints (more evidence that it's all a scam to sell more toner).

It gets worse with color laser printers. Saw one on sale recently for
$300, priced a set of toner, $600, drum was another $200-300...and the
"starter toner", upon investigation, was not even half-full - more like
10%.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Make sure you're very careful about comparing the replacement part to
the original, & in how you mount it. If the original had yellow/orange
film (anti-stick) over it, you'll need to come up with some way of
mounting the new thermoswicth so that it doesn't rub on the roller, or
it'll scrape off the teflon coating, which will leave streaks on your
printouts.

It seems that the thermo shut-off is positioned in close proximity to -- but
not touching -- the heated roller. It's designed to open when the temperature
(within about 1/8 inch of the roller) reaches 150c.

The standard method is to bend the mounting bars on the
thermoswitch so that it doesn't quite touch the roller.

Yeah, that's how it is in this one.

Thanks.

Lionel wrote:
On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 20:53:46 GMT, ehsjr
wrote:


SparkyGuy wrote:

Fuser quit working on my laser printer. Removed the fuser and found that the
snap-action bimetallic thermostatic switch for the fuser heating element is
open-circuit. I removed it from the fuser and pried it open. Looks brand new.
Reassembled it and it now conducts. Then it opened again. Not reliable enough
to reinstall due to critical job it does. It rides against the cool roller
(not the heated one) and cycles the heating element so as to keep the
temperature constant.

Markings on front:
PW-2N
5214
E150

I am *guessing* that the E150 indicates the temperature.
Take a look at Mouser part # 802-STO-160 to see if
it will work for you. It is normally closed, and
opens when the emperature rises above 155 to 165 F


The temperature is rated in degrees C, not F, but other than that, it
looks like you have the righ part.


Mouser gives the ratings in both F and C. If he needs 150 C
then the part I posted is wrong. The closest part # would be
802-ST0-335 which is rated 315-335 F, 157-169 C

Ed

Lionel wrote:
On Fri, 09 Mar 2007 03:28:22 GMT, SparkyGuy
wrote:


Make sure you're very careful about comparing the replacement part to
the original, & in how you mount it. If the original had yellow/orange
film (anti-stick) over it, you'll need to come up with some way of
mounting the new thermoswicth so that it doesn't rub on the roller, or
it'll scrape off the teflon coating, which will leave streaks on your
printouts.

It seems that the thermo shut-off is positioned in close proximity to -- but
not touching -- the heated roller. It's designed to open when the temperature
(within about 1/8 inch of the roller) reaches 150c.


Close, but not quite correct. It's designed for a hot roller operating
temperature of 150c, & opens if it goes significantly higher than
that.


The standard method is to bend the mounting bars on the
thermoswitch so that it doesn't quite touch the roller.

Yeah, that's how it is in this one.


Good. That version of the design is easier to fix than the version
where the thermal cutout touches the roller, which used a special
cutout that had an indentation in it that matched the shape of the
roller. (We fixed the older version by bending the tabs on a standard
cutout so that they match the roller distance of the newer type.)


Thanks.


My pleasure. It's nice to know that my hard-earned experience with
laser engines isn't just wasting space in my brain. ;^)


Not wasted - it is very interesting! I take it that
most of the time this type of failure is caused by
the build up of crud in there? Is it a fool's errand
to try to do preventive maintenance - maybe just as
likely to cause a problem as to prevent it? Also,
when these printers start "smudging" the non-printed
area, is that a sign of impending toner replacement?
The prior printer did that for a long while before
the printing became light & toner needed replacement.
I tried to clean it on a number of occasions, but was
not successful in clearing the problem. So either
I wasn't cleaning the right things, or it wasn't an
issue of cleaning.

Ed

Lionel wrote:
On Fri, 09 Mar 2007 06:03:48 GMT, ehsjr
wrote:


Lionel wrote:

The temperature is rated in degrees C, not F, but other than that, it
looks like you have the righ part.

Mouser gives the ratings in both F and C. If he needs 150 C
then the part I posted is wrong. The closest part # would be
802-ST0-335 which is rated 315-335 F, 157-169 C


Yep, that's the one I suggested after reading your post.

Thanks! Glad you picked up on the error. It would be a bummer
if he put in the wrong part, to say the least. And I've enjoyed
reading & learning from your posts on this. :-)

Ed

Lionel wrote:
On Thu, 08 Mar 2007 00:57:38 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 23:05:08 GMT, ehsjr
wrote:

But, serendipity - they had
an entire printer (Brother HL-2040) on sale for $110,
and it's faster and better than the old one. (The price
has dropped on them since I bought, so they are now
$120 not on sale.)
Usually these discount printers come with a toner cartridge that is
about half full so you will be buying toner pretty soon anyway.
Sometimes I believe they sell printers below cost just to create a
market for toner. I am sure that is true for ink jets

That's exactly what they do.


Toner cartridges for my HP laserjet actually wear out long before they
run out of toner, Because of the job my this printer does - over
printing A5 concert flyers for local entertainment venues - only the
centre third of the toner cartridge actually 'applies toner' to the
paper, this eventually causes the toner to leak out of the cartridge at
either end. Shaking the cart now and then helps. I understand that
eventually the scraper blade inside the cart wears, causing vertical
lines . It`s kind of annoying to dispose of cartridges that are still
more than half full of toner tho.

Remanufactured cartridges last longer than genuine HP ones, and are
substantially cheaper. I buy toner carts when they are on 3 for 2 offer,
Even if they were full price, each cartridge pays for itself many times
over, so I`m not complaining. My old Laserjet6L did well over 100,000
prints before it became mechanically too cranky to use.


Ron(UK)


--
Lune Valley Audio
Public Address Systems
Hire Sales Maintenance
www.lunevalleyaudio.com

I'd offer to send the OP a thermostat, but it's clearly a
different printer (this one reads the hot roller)

I was mistaken -- the thermal cut-out safety switch in the Samsung 4100 I'm
trying to fix does monitor thet hot roller (I always though the red-coated
one was the hot one... apparently not).

and there are no
visible markings on it at all (I have not fully disassembled the fuser
assembly to see if there are any on the backside of it, but the visible
parts have no markings)

Well if it looks like this:

http://img12.picsplace.to/img.php?file=img12/1/Thermo.jpg

(the black end of it with the two mounting/electrical tabs is visible from
the exterior of the fuser) please consider it.

Thanks,
Sparky

Lionel wrote:

Printing big runs of narrow (210mm) sheets wears out the drum &
cleaning blade much faster than usual. When printing lots of A5
sheets, it's better to double-up them to A4 sheets, then guillotine
them in half afterwards. You'll get *way* more life out of your
cartridges, & it'll also reduce wear on the paper rollers & fuser
assembly.


That`s very true, but concert flyers already come in A5 size. A simple
solution would be to run them through sideways, except the Printer I
have wont do it as the paper length is then too short.

Ron(UK)

Lionel wrote:
On Fri, 09 Mar 2007 06:24:08 GMT, ehsjr
wrote:


Lionel wrote:

My pleasure. It's nice to know that my hard-earned experience with
laser engines isn't just wasting space in my brain. ;^)


Not wasted - it is very interesting!


Thanks.


I take it that
most of the time this type of failure is caused by
the build up of crud in there? Is it a fool's errand
to try to do preventive maintenance - maybe just as
likely to cause a problem as to prevent it?


Not if you know what you're doing, but it's enough of a pain to get at
the relevant part of the fuser that I've never bothered doing it
unless I run into symptoms like the OP's, or am opening up the printer
for some other reason, in which case I'll give it a clean up while I'm
in there.
BTW, a tiny squirt of silicon spray on the woolly, removable wiper on
top of the hot roller for every ream of paper you put through the
printer will greatly extend the life of the teflon coating on the hot
roller, which is hard to obtain, & a pain to replace. It's also good
to clean the accumulated gunk of the separation claws (that 'scrape'
the paper off the hot roller in its way out), because they're prone to
causing paper jams on exit, & can scratch gouges in the teflon
hot-roller coating.


Also,
when these printers start "smudging" the non-printed
area, is that a sign of impending toner replacement?


It totally depends on the cause, of which there several for that
particular symptom. (And there are unrelated problems that cause
symptoms that look very similar to the inexperienced.) But yes, the
most common cause of dirty backgrounds is a cartridge on its last
legs. At a site where they have more than one printer of the same
type, the easiest, quickest way to detect a bad cartridge is to swap
cartridges with another unit, then do a test print from both.


The prior printer did that for a long while before
the printing became light & toner needed replacement.
I tried to clean it on a number of occasions, but was
not successful in clearing the problem. So either
I wasn't cleaning the right things, or it wasn't an
issue of cleaning.


Most likely the latter. If it came good when you put in the new
cartridge, you've got the answer to your question.


Lionel,

Thanks. Good info, as usual!

Ed

just gotta love the tricks these marketing moguls use to extract our money
from our wallets.

they are not concerened with conservation, re-use or longevity. they only
seek to enrich themselves by selling us time limited and sales strategic
devices that require extreme cost to service or replenish. the initial
purchase is a come-on

the HP deskjet cartridge, (yes that tiny little ink thing) has probably
generated more profit for HP than most all its gear combined.

no one in business for profit ever cares about resource depletion until
their own kids die from it.. & even then, they figure they will leave THAT
problem for their kids to solve. "if it aint broke,doan figz it"




"ehsjr" wrote in message
news:EyHHh.20963$tf.18635@trndny06...
SparkyGuy wrote:
ehsjr sez:


I am *guessing* that the E150 indicates the temperature.
Take a look at Mouser part # 802-STO-160 to see if
it will work for you. It is normally closed, and
opens when the emperature rises above 155 to 165 F

Ed


Thanks for your comments, Ed. I saw that one but would like to find a
direct
replacement without having to hack off tabs, etc (original has no
separate
mounting tabs; the connection tabs are use for screw mounting also).

Also, fuser assembly gets up to high 300f+ so I, too, am guessing at the
temp
rating. 150f seems a bit low for being in such proximity to the headed
roller
(few tenths of an inch). Maybe it's 150c (302f)? It *is* a Japanese
printer...

The nearest Stancor product is 157f (315c)... too high?


I dunno - but I can commiserate with your situation.
When my toner ran low, I went to Staples to buy a
replacement. 70 dollars! But, serendipity - they had
an entire printer (Brother HL-2040) on sale for $110,
and it's faster and better than the old one. (The price
has dropped on them since I bought, so they are now
$120 not on sale.) Anyway, it worked out well for me,
but $70 for the toner still rankles! Interesting
psychology - I didn't spend $70 and if I had I'd
still be unhappy about it. I spent $110 - $40 more,
and I'm pleased as punch. And it's actually more than
$40 extra when you add in the tax.

Maybe the people who set the prices have an ulterior
motive? (How do you make a "frowny face" icon with
smoke coming out of its ears?)

Ed

wrote in
:

no one in business for profit ever cares about resource depletion
until their own kids die from it.. & even then, they figure they will
leave THAT problem for their kids to solve. "if it aint broke,doan
figz it"


Don't kid yourself. They don't think of it AT ALL. Period. There are two
ways to think things like this, unless you're no longer sane, in which case
all bets are off:
1. You assume it IS relevent to you, and all that you care about, in which
case it nags at you till you eventually do something, ANYTHING, to appease
the nagging sense of doubt, in order to make yourself feel more secure. OR
2. You assume your security is ALREADY assured, thus you don't think of
doing anything to change what others appear to be whinging about as a
perceived threat.

Given that the firms doing this ARE amongst the most secure, financially,
politically, and socially, their arrogance is the cause. This is not mere
ignorance, it is WILLFUL ignorance, the worst and most dangerous kind. It
also the kind that is hardest to forgive, and if resources become low
enough to make a majority of people start to begrudge this and DO something
about the way they choose to spend their money, it will carry on. There are
firms that will sell cheap refills, but these aren't the cure, they DEPEND
on the problem to exist.

Now, as I'm saying my small rant in the presence of electronics engineers,
some of which are considering their own business management as well as
electronics details, I won't try to tell them solutions they probably know
more about themselves, it's enough to point out tht there will be a market
for products that don't fleece the buying public at unacceptable expense.

I do have one small suggestion, I guess. Innovation is the ONLY way a small
firm can get ahead. After all, it;s buying up innovators that makes the big
firms get ahead, right? So, if small firms patent their stuff precisely
instead of in the aggressive way large firms do to try to stop others,
instead of just protecting themselves, this can help, it can prevent a
large firm from muying and burying innovation that threatens their own
wasteful empires, and it can also prevent them from revising history to try
to force their exploitation of your ideas. Patent it under your own name if
you invent it. A firm can't claim your idea even if you thought it up on
their time! Do they OWN your mind? I think not. At least copyright it by
sending yourself signed sealed copies. Do this before it becomes valuable
to someone else.

There may be all kinds of better ideas to erode the tech society that
wastes so heavily, but I'm not inside it enough to think of much more than
I have said here.

Small addition: Co-operation.

Yes. Help each other!

am slowly weaning from this techno madness, it is like a creeping crud,
society gets crazed and beleives the earth will be saved by using this
technostuf. pity them

No, actually they simply use it to amuse themselves until the Messiah comes
(c: I mean, find something you enjoy doing and do it!

And lighten up!
FBt