I have a 32" that has gone almost completely dark. If I crank up the
screen control on the flyback you can just see the onscreen menu--I
have tested the voltage at the high voltage anode and got 28,000V. The
heater is also glowing quite brightly in the neck. Interesting thing
is that when the neck board was pulled so I can run an ESR test on the
caps, one pin was pulled from the tube (not sure of its exact name but
its the one pin separated from the others) I thought that this would
completely shut down the set but like I say its just very very dark and
there isn't enough adjustment left to bring it back up.

I've also noticed that adjusting the brightness slider will send the
set completely black.


Is this set pooched or is there another thing I should be looking at to
get the screen back?

Thanks!

Stu

wrote in message
oups.com...

I have a 32" that has gone almost completely dark. If I crank up the
screen control on the flyback you can just see the onscreen menu--I
have tested the voltage at the high voltage anode and got 28,000V

Have you checked all of the voltages on the base pins?


--
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+ Server Response: '441 Posting Failed (Rejected by POST filter)', +
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Homer J Simpson wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...

I have a 32" that has gone almost completely dark. If I crank up the
screen control on the flyback you can just see the onscreen menu--I
have tested the voltage at the high voltage anode and got 28,000V

Have you checked all of the voltages on the base pins?


--
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++
+ Required crap appended to avoid restrictions imposed by brain +
+ damaged idiots.
+
+ Server Response: '441 Posting Failed (Rejected by POST filter)', +
+ Port: 119, Secure(SSL): No, Server Error: 441,
+
+ Error Number: 0x800CCCA9
+
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++


Have you checked all of the voltages on the base pins?

No I haven't ,what voltage ranges should I be seeing? My only
experience is with arcade monitors (similar but simpler and older)

wrote in message
oups.com...

Have you checked all of the voltages on the base pins?

No I haven't ,what voltage ranges should I be seeing? My only
experience is with arcade monitors (similar but simpler and older)

I'd compare them with the service manual. Or against the specs for the tube
itself. I'd pay particular attention to the differences between one grid and
the next since this affects brightness and focus.


--
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++
+ Required crap appended to avoid restrictions imposed by brain +
+ damaged idiots.
+
+ Server Response: '441 Posting Failed (Rejected by POST filter)', +
+ Port: 119, Secure(SSL): No, Server Error: 441,
+
+ Error Number: 0x800CCCA9
+
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++


--
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++
+ Required crap appended to avoid restrictions imposed by brain +
+ damaged idiots.
+
+ Server Response: '441 Posting Failed (Rejected by POST filter)', +
+ Port: 119, Secure(SSL): No, Server Error: 441,
+
+ Error Number: 0x800CCCA9
+
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++

snip Interesting thing
is that when the neck board was pulled so I can run an ESR test on the
caps, one pin was pulled from the tube (not sure of its exact name but
its the one pin separated from the others) snip

What exactly do you mean when you say one pin was pulled from the tube?

I am assuming you mean one of the pins broken off the crt, in which
case you are probably looking at a new crt.

wrote:
snip Interesting thing
is that when the neck board was pulled so I can run an ESR test on the
caps, one pin was pulled from the tube (not sure of its exact name but
its the one pin separated from the others) snip

What exactly do you mean when you say one pin was pulled from the tube?

I am assuming you mean one of the pins broken off the crt, in which
case you are probably looking at a new crt.

Yeah I figured as much--was sort of hoping some one would tell me it
was a fixable thing--what a shame, a newer 32" tv to help fill up a
landfill....Is the chassis worth salvaging?

wrote:
wrote:

snip Interesting thing

is that when the neck board was pulled so I can run an ESR test on the
caps, one pin was pulled from the tube (not sure of its exact name but
its the one pin separated from the others) snip

What exactly do you mean when you say one pin was pulled from the tube?

I am assuming you mean one of the pins broken off the crt, in which
case you are probably looking at a new crt.


Yeah I figured as much--was sort of hoping some one would tell me it
was a fixable thing--what a shame, a newer 32" tv to help fill up a
landfill....Is the chassis worth salvaging?



Don't give up yet, if the glass is not broken, all you need is something
kinda springy to stick in the CRT socket, or you could try some of that
conductive epoxy to glue a new pin of some sort on.

If air has leaked into the tube though you're screwed.

James Sweet wrote:
wrote:
wrote:

snip Interesting thing

is that when the neck board was pulled so I can run an ESR test on the
caps, one pin was pulled from the tube (not sure of its exact name but
its the one pin separated from the others) snip

What exactly do you mean when you say one pin was pulled from the tube?

I am assuming you mean one of the pins broken off the crt, in which
case you are probably looking at a new crt.


Yeah I figured as much--was sort of hoping some one would tell me it
was a fixable thing--what a shame, a newer 32" tv to help fill up a
landfill....Is the chassis worth salvaging?



Don't give up yet, if the glass is not broken, all you need is something
kinda springy to stick in the CRT socket, or you could try some of that
conductive epoxy to glue a new pin of some sort on.

If air has leaked into the tube though you're screwed.

Interesting idea--what is the name of the conductive epoxy? I've never
heard of that. Also, How could I positively confirm or deny if air has
leaked in? Does the fact that I still have a picture although a VERY
dim one mean its still working?