The platter is spinning fine, and it sounds just like it's
working...but it's not cooking anything - at all.

Basically it's a microwave without the microwaves

Any ideas what might need replacing? I know nothing about these
things, but I can open most things up and replace parts without a
problem (at least that's what I try to convince myself of)

Thanks for any help!

"bulge" wrote in message
...

Any ideas what might need replacing? I know nothing about these
things, but I can open most things up and replace parts without a
problem (at least that's what I try to convince myself of)

See previous messages re these. They will kill you in a blink.

"CAUTION: Your microwave oven is capable of giving you a serious electrical
shock, even when it is unplugged. We strongly suggest you seek the
assistance of an appliance repair technician when conducting any microwave
oven repair."

http://www.partselect.com/microwave+repair+repair.htm

It's probably a door switch.

bulge wrote:

The platter is spinning fine, and it sounds just like it's
working...but it's not cooking anything - at all.

Basically it's a microwave without the microwaves

Any ideas what might need replacing? I know nothing about these
things, but I can open most things up and replace parts without a
problem (at least that's what I try to convince myself of)

Thanks for any help!

then leave it alone. Microwaves have killed technicians, and you dont
know what the risks are or how to deal with them. There are times when
the risk/reward ratio isnt worth it.


NT

wrote:
bulge wrote:

The platter is spinning fine, and it sounds just like it's
working...but it's not cooking anything - at all.

Basically it's a microwave without the microwaves

Any ideas what might need replacing? I know nothing about these
things, but I can open most things up and replace parts without a
problem (at least that's what I try to convince myself of)

Thanks for any help!

then leave it alone. Microwaves have killed technicians, and you dont
know what the risks are or how to deal with them. There are times when
the risk/reward ratio isnt worth it.


NT

Yes there's a large cap in there that will store the HV, usually 800 to
1200V or more!, and with enough current to flatten you. It will store
that voltage even after the unit is turned off, unplugged, and been
sitting for a while. Those plastic covers on the capacitor terminals are
there for a reason. SO if you haven't dealt with that kind of HV
circuitry, put the cover back on, have it serviced by "qualified
personnel" or pitch it. I and every one else can't stress strongly
enough that if you're an amateur at these, no offense intended, it's
best to stay away.
If you do want to "press on regardless" I believe Sam Goldwasser's
site has a pretty good write up on troubleshooting these beasts.
I will add that I have a Panasonic that I picked up at my town dump. I
replaced a bad door switch and it's been running for 16 years since.
However based on the symptoms you describe, I'll hazard the guess it is
probably a HV related control problem. With a bad door switch or
interlock problem they usually don't run at all.

good luck and stay safe!

"tomh" wrote in message
...

Yes there's a large cap in there that will store the HV, usually 800 to
1200V or more!, and with enough current to flatten you. It will store that
voltage even after the unit is turned off, unplugged, and been sitting for
a while.

I would also have concerns about 'memory effect' with such a cap -
recharging itself after it has been shorted out.

Homer J Simpson wrote:
"tomh" wrote in message
...

Yes there's a large cap in there that will store the HV, usually 800 to
1200V or more!, and with enough current to flatten you. It will store that
voltage even after the unit is turned off, unplugged, and been sitting for
a while.

I would also have concerns about 'memory effect' with such a cap -
recharging itself after it has been shorted out.

There are other risks in nukes as well. If the OP does go ahead anyway,
it would be wise to do some reading on the risks first, in order to
minimise them. One risk area to be aware of is the interlock
switch/resistor/fuse system, which can fail so the machine is
functional but unsafe. Also beware that the usual insulated tools
precaution with the HV cap doesnt always prevent death, as has been
learnt from experience, as there are failure modes and additional
precaution required. Etc. Nukes and colour TVs are the highest risk
domestic items during servicing.


NT

Homer J Simpson wrote:

"tomh" wrote in message
...

Yes there's a large cap in there that will store the HV, usually 800 to
1200V or more!, and with enough current to flatten you. It will store that
voltage even after the unit is turned off, unplugged, and been sitting for
a while.

I would also have concerns about 'memory effect' with such a cap -
recharging itself after it has been shorted out.


That is "Dielectric adsorption", not "Memory effect".


--
My sig file can beat up your sig file!

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
...

I would also have concerns about 'memory effect' with such a cap -
recharging itself after it has been shorted out.

That is "Dielectric adsorption", not "Memory effect".

It's a nasty surprise either way. Personally I call it "You MotherF***ing
SOB"