Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Default 9V battery testing; Thevenin equivalent; car headlamps.

On 2006-08-01, Adam Funk wrote:
On 2006-08-01, Joop van der Velden wrote:
Adam Funk wrote:
I recently tested a 9V alkaline battery by measuring its open-circuit
voltage (9.0 V) and then measuring it with a car headlight lamp (R = 1
Ohm) across the terminals (4.0 V). The lamp lit up brightly and got
warm, but from the significant voltage drop I conclude that the
battery is basically dead. Correct?


No, 1,25 ohm ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) for a 9V battery is
quite good. For a 1,5V "D" cell i would consider it too high.


Interesting. I though a 44% voltage drop sounded like a lot, but as
you and others have pointed out, the load resistance I've used is very
low. What sort of resistance do I really need for this sort of test?


If you've got lots of spare automobile parts there,
perhaps "3W" panel indicator lamp would be more realistic
or a 22 ohm resistor.

Right. I measured the lamp's resistance with an ohmmeter, which of
course puts very little current through it.

But I took the measurements by clipping the voltmeter (actually it's
the same meter) leads onto the battery terminals, reading the
open-circuit voltage, then pressing the lamp's terminals against the
battery terminals (the spacing was convenient --- that's where I got
the idea from) and immediately reading the loaded voltage (before the
lamp heated up).


One thing you could do if the meter has a 10A range is put the meter in
series with the lamp. then you can figure out the resistance of the lamp
using ohms law.

Bye.
Jasen
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Default 9V battery testing; Thevenin equivalent; car headlamps.

On 2006-08-02, jasen wrote:

I recently tested a 9V alkaline battery by measuring its open-circuit
voltage (9.0 V) and then measuring it with a car headlight lamp (R = 1
Ohm) across the terminals (4.0 V). The lamp lit up brightly and got
warm, but from the significant voltage drop I conclude that the
battery is basically dead. Correct?

....
If you've got lots of spare automobile parts there,
perhaps "3W" panel indicator lamp would be more realistic
or a 22 ohm resistor.


Perhaps I should mention that the only reason I did this test was that
I happened to notice a used 9V battery and a headlamp lying near each
other on my workbench, and curiosity drew me in!


Right. I measured the lamp's resistance with an ohmmeter, which of
course puts very little current through it.

But I took the measurements by clipping the voltmeter (actually it's
the same meter) leads onto the battery terminals, reading the
open-circuit voltage, then pressing the lamp's terminals against the
battery terminals (the spacing was convenient --- that's where I got
the idea from) and immediately reading the loaded voltage (before the
lamp heated up).


I wrote those two paragraphs in the wrong order. I measured the
voltage drop first and then (after letting the lamp cool) measured its
resistance.

If I'd seen the 1 Ohm value first, I wouldn't have used it for the
voltage-drop test!
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