Hi,

Tape recorder unit of Technics SA-EH750 (SA-EH750GC-S) has a burned-out
transformer part. The part has the following markings on it:
RTP2N5E014
(M) (M in a circle) ETP76VST61TA
7396

I called Technics parts center in US and they say that the unit is from
their international division, so they don't have any spare parts for it.
Google search gives that some French store has this part (RTP2N5E014), but
it costs about $150-$200 - about as much as the whole unit.

Where can I get this part for a more affordable price?

Thanks in advance,

Alex.

"Alexander Liberov" wrote in message
...
Hi,

Tape recorder unit of Technics SA-EH750 (SA-EH750GC-S) has a burned-out
transformer part. The part has the following markings on it:
RTP2N5E014
(M) (M in a circle) ETP76VST61TA
7396

I called Technics parts center in US and they say that the unit is from
their international division, so they don't have any spare parts for it.
Google search gives that some French store has this part (RTP2N5E014), but
it costs about $150-$200 - about as much as the whole unit.

Where can I get this part for a more affordable price?

Thanks in advance,

Alex.




Do you know the voltage/current ratings of each winding? It would be much
easier to find a solution if we knew those numbers. Do you have the schematic
and/or parts list that gives those values? Without the numbers, it's nearly
impossible to tell from your post.

One possibility that might save your unit is the fact that the power transformer
in many consumer audio components have an overtemp fuse imbedded inside the
winding area. It looks very much like an ordinary pigtail type fuse, and is
usually in series with the primary winding. To get to it, cut or tear away the
outer covering, which is usually heavy paper. Follow the primary leads into the
assembly until you get to the first winding layer. The fuse is usually in that
vicinity. Check it with an ohmmeter. It should show very low resistance if it
is good. High resistance (more than a couple ohms) or open means it's bad. To
find a suitable replacement, look at the nameplate of the recorder and get the
power rating (if the current is listed there, even better). Using the formula
Amps = Watts/Volts, calculate the current rating of the fuse (where Volts =
117V). It probably won't be exactly what the mfr specified for the transformer,
but it will get you in the ballpark. Get a fuse of that current rating, and
install it in the place of the bad fuse. Insulate the connections with tape or
shrink tubing, wrap the transformer's outer wrap back into place and tape or tie
it into place. That should get you back in operation.

If the winding itself is open (usually deep into the winding area), it's a lost
cause unless you can open the transformer all the way and find the place where
it's burned open. If the fault is close to the top of the winding, it might not
be too much work to repair; otherwise, it's a junker. Also, if your transformer
has a plastic molded winding area, you can usually junk it; you'll probably
destroy the transformer trying to get it open.


Cheers!!!

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Some days you're the dog, some days the hydrant.