I use a HP Laserjet 1160 for overprinting glossy colour flyers,
sometimes the paper bubbles due to the heat of the fuser roller. Can
anyone tell me which setting offers the lowest fuser temperature, or is
there a way on this model to change the preset temps?

Ron(UK)

Ron(UK) wrote:
I use a HP Laserjet 1160 for overprinting glossy colour flyers,
sometimes the paper bubbles due to the heat of the fuser roller. Can
anyone tell me which setting offers the lowest fuser temperature, or is
there a way on this model to change the preset temps?

Ron(UK)

The Fuser temperature is preset and based on the type of toner that was
specified for the unit. Any copier or laser printer that uses a heat
fuser to melt the toner to the paper is likely going to have this
problem. Any attempt to lower the temperature will result in the toner
not being melted completely to the paper.

There is a slim possibility that the fuser roller is simply worn out
and the teflon coating is starting to get thin or peel off in places,
or the temperature sensor is all covered in crud allowing it to get too
hot.

My guess is that you actually need a transfer film printer, about $2.00
a page, in order to keep from losing any of the flyers, or a good
quality inkjet with that uses the correct type of waterproof ink that
will still work on the glossy flyer. If the flyer were not glossy than
something like the Epson higher end ink jets would probably work as the
ink has to have some paper fiber to bond with.

wrote:
Ron(UK) wrote:

I use a HP Laserjet 1160 for overprinting glossy colour flyers,
sometimes the paper bubbles due to the heat of the fuser roller. Can
anyone tell me which setting offers the lowest fuser temperature, or is
there a way on this model to change the preset temps?

Ron(UK)


The Fuser temperature is preset and based on the type of toner that was
specified for the unit.


Incorrect, the fuser temp varies with the type of paper or stock
selected, for example transparencies and labels use a noticably lower
fusing temp than normal paper. Some makes of printer have adjustable
fuser temp via software.


Any copier or laser printer that uses a heat
fuser to melt the toner to the paper is likely going to have this
problem. Any attempt to lower the temperature will result in the toner
not being melted completely to the paper.

Hewlett Packard printers appear to use a lower than normal fusing temp
toner.

There is a slim possibility that the fuser roller is simply worn out
and the teflon coating is starting to get thin or peel off in places,
or the temperature sensor is all covered in crud allowing it to get too
hot.

Brand new printer, works fine on all but the occasional batch of flyers,
My old HP laserjet did in excess of 250,000 prints on flyers before
the paper pickup became too cranky to use


My guess is that you actually need a transfer film printer, about $2.00
a page, in order to keep from losing any of the flyers, or a good
quality inkjet with that uses the correct type of waterproof ink that
will still work on the glossy flyer.

Inkjets aren`t an option.

Thanks for your input

Ron(UK)

Hi!

Incorrect, the fuser temp varies with the type of paper or stock
selected, for example transparencies and labels use a noticably lower
fusing temp than normal paper. Some makes of printer have adjustable
fuser temp via software.

I don't know of any HP LaserJet units that offered this feature. As far as I
can tell, fuser temperature on these printers is set at one level and not
adjustable.

I once read what the fusing temperature for an HP laser printer was,
however, I've long since forgotten what the number was.

Brand new printer, works fine on all but the occasional batch of flyers,
My old HP laserjet did in excess of 250,000 prints on flyers before
the paper pickup became too cranky to use

The roller that's responsible for paper pickup is relatively easy and
certainly cheap to replace on most machines. I got a replacement pickup
roller for an HP LaserJet III that actually ran until the built in page
counter flipped over to all zeroes and started again. I never did get to see
how long this printer would have kept on running...I needed space and
changed it out for a Samsung ML-1710. A basement flood wiped out the HP
printer and damaged the toner in the Samsung printer.

Inkjets aren`t an option.

Would any of A) different paper B) a color laser printer or C) something
like a dye-sublimation printer work? It sounds like the paper you are
presently using is simply not compatible with your current printer.

William

Ron(UK) wrote:
I use a HP Laserjet 1160 for overprinting glossy colour flyers,
sometimes the paper bubbles due to the heat of the fuser roller. Can
anyone tell me which setting offers the lowest fuser temperature, or is
there a way on this model to change the preset temps?

Ron(UK)

Hi Ron.

http://www.lavc.edu/IT/Manuals/Print...User_Guide.pdf
http://shell.hpsupplieslink.com/media/4AA0-0791ENUC.pdf

Dig deep enough and there is a bit about different media and fuser temps.

http://www.printgrc.com/200series.cfm


I have a 5 that had the fuser go dead. I disassembled it and
managed to replace a thermal fuse and brought it back to life.
It was a big pain in the ass though.

Bob

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Bob Urz wrote:


Ron(UK) wrote:

I use a HP Laserjet 1160 for overprinting glossy colour flyers,
sometimes the paper bubbles due to the heat of the fuser roller. Can
anyone tell me which setting offers the lowest fuser temperature, or
is there a way on this model to change the preset temps?

Ron(UK)


Hi Ron.

http://www.lavc.edu/IT/Manuals/Print...User_Guide.pdf
http://shell.hpsupplieslink.com/media/4AA0-0791ENUC.pdf

Dig deep enough and there is a bit about different media and fuser temps.

http://www.printgrc.com/200series.cfm



Cheers for that Bob

Ron(UK)

William R. Walsh wrote:
Hi!


Incorrect, the fuser temp varies with the type of paper or stock
selected, for example transparencies and labels use a noticably lower
fusing temp than normal paper. Some makes of printer have adjustable
fuser temp via software.


I don't know of any HP LaserJet units that offered this feature. As far as I
can tell, fuser temperature on these printers is set at one level and not
adjustable.

I once read what the fusing temperature for an HP laser printer was,
however, I've long since forgotten what the number was.

It`s lower than some other makes of printer, Brother and Samsung for
example. I once tried refilling an old cartridge with Xerox toner - just
to see - and it didn`t fuse at all


Brand new printer, works fine on all but the occasional batch of flyers,
My old HP laserjet did in excess of 250,000 prints on flyers before
the paper pickup became too cranky to use


The roller that's responsible for paper pickup is relatively easy and
certainly cheap to replace on most machines. I got a replacement pickup
roller for an HP LaserJet III that actually ran until the built in page
counter flipped over to all zeroes and started again. I never did get to see
how long this printer would have kept on running...I needed space and
changed it out for a Samsung ML-1710. A basement flood wiped out the HP
printer and damaged the toner in the Samsung printer.

My old HP was an L6. I'de been nursing it for years but now the thin
flexible sheet which covers the fuser has wrinkled and puts creases in
the paper - it certainly doensn`t owe me anything

I have an ML-1710, not a bad printer for £60 but it wont handle
laminated stock, the fuser temp on that machine is so high that it
bubbles the paper up instantly



Inkjets aren`t an option.


Would any of A) different paper B) a color laser printer or C) something
like a dye-sublimation printer work? It sounds like the paper you are
presently using is simply not compatible with your current printer.


You misunderstand. I have no control over the paper quality, the flyers
are delivered to me pre-printed, and I overprint onto them.
90% print without any problem whatsoever, it`s just the occasional batch
which are trouble. I`ve found that storing them in a really warm place
for a time before prnting helps a lot, That makes me think that it might
be moisture trapped in the paper

I`ve found that the transparency setting seems to be the coolest, I was
just wondering if there`s a way of reducing it even further in software.

Thanks for your input
Ron(UK)


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http://www.lavc.edu/IT/Manuals/Print...User_Guide.pdf

The fuser temperature cannot be manually adjusted on this printer. The only
way to do that is to select the media, and that only adjusts the temperature
to the presets. No other adjustments can be made to fuser temp.

There are limits on what coated media you can use:

"The printer uses heat and pressure to fuse toner to the paper. Make sure
that any colored paper or preprinted forms use inks that are compatible with
the printer temperature (200° C (392° F) for 0.1 second)."

Juan

"Ron(UK)" wrote in message
...
I use a HP Laserjet 1160 for overprinting glossy colour flyers, sometimes
the paper bubbles due to the heat of the fuser roller. Can anyone tell me
which setting offers the lowest fuser temperature, or is there a way on
this model to change the preset temps?

Ron(UK)


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Juan Jimenez wrote:
http://www.lavc.edu/IT/Manuals/Print...User_Guide.pdf

The fuser temperature cannot be manually adjusted on this printer. The only
way to do that is to select the media, and that only adjusts the temperature
to the presets. No other adjustments can be made to fuser temp.

There are limits on what coated media you can use:

"The printer uses heat and pressure to fuse toner to the paper. Make sure
that any colored paper or preprinted forms use inks that are compatible with
the printer temperature (200° C (392° F) for 0.1 second)."

Juan

Thanks very much for that, it`s exactly as I expected. I`ve found that
the 'pre-punched' and 'recycled' settings work best, and I do short
runs to prevent the temperature building up too much. I suspect that the
reason I`m having trouble with this particular batch of flyers is that
they are predominently black with just a small lighter coloured area for
the overprinting. I think that moisture trapped in the paper has
something to do with it also.

Many thanks
Ron