First, I did search the group and did not find the specific info I
need. I was given an older Maytag 1/3 hp 1725 rpm washing machine
motor and need help with the wiring to retask it for other use.
The wiring block on the end of the motor is set up with six connectors,
4 ganged with 1 internal and 1 external wire, 2 with single wires. It
looks as follows, (E) indicates external wire connected to house
current (115v) / maybe a capacitor? the other color is internal
wiring:

1 Blue / Red (E) 2 Green (E)

3 Black 4 Yellow / White (E)

5 Red / Yellow (E) 6 Orange / Black (E)

2 is connected to 3 via the centrifugal switch, I disassembled it to
verify. Obviously the start winding. This shows a resistance of .4,
probably need to clean my meters connections. Other values follow.
1 - 4 2 ohms
1 - 6 2 ohms
2 - 3 .4 ohm
3 - 5 3.6 ohms
4 - 6 .4 ohm
Any assistance in wiring / testing this would be appreciated. TIA

"PatD" wrote in message
oups.com...
First, I did search the group and did not find the specific info I
need. I was given an older Maytag 1/3 hp 1725 rpm washing machine
motor and need help with the wiring to retask it for other use.
The wiring block on the end of the motor is set up with six connectors,
4 ganged with 1 internal and 1 external wire, 2 with single wires. It
looks as follows, (E) indicates external wire connected to house
current (115v) / maybe a capacitor? the other color is internal
wiring:

1 Blue / Red (E) 2 Green (E)

3 Black 4 Yellow / White (E)

5 Red / Yellow (E) 6 Orange / Black (E)

2 is connected to 3 via the centrifugal switch, I disassembled it to
verify. Obviously the start winding. This shows a resistance of .4,
probably need to clean my meters connections. Other values follow.
1 - 4 2 ohms
1 - 6 2 ohms
2 - 3 .4 ohm
3 - 5 3.6 ohms
4 - 6 .4 ohm
Any assistance in wiring / testing this would be appreciated. TIA

I thought all washing machine motors were DC as its easier to reverse and
speed control

Mr Fixit wrote:
"PatD" wrote in message
oups.com...

First, I did search the group and did not find the specific info I
need. I was given an older Maytag 1/3 hp 1725 rpm washing machine
motor and need help with the wiring to retask it for other use.
The wiring block on the end of the motor is set up with six connectors,
4 ganged with 1 internal and 1 external wire, 2 with single wires. It
looks as follows, (E) indicates external wire connected to house
current (115v) / maybe a capacitor? the other color is internal
wiring:

1 Blue / Red (E) 2 Green (E)

3 Black 4 Yellow / White (E)

5 Red / Yellow (E) 6 Orange / Black (E)

2 is connected to 3 via the centrifugal switch, I disassembled it to
verify. Obviously the start winding. This shows a resistance of .4,
probably need to clean my meters connections. Other values follow.
1 - 4 2 ohms
1 - 6 2 ohms
2 - 3 .4 ohm
3 - 5 3.6 ohms
4 - 6 .4 ohm
Any assistance in wiring / testing this would be appreciated. TIA


I thought all washing machine motors were DC as its easier to reverse and
speed control




Standard north american washing machines have used AC induction motors
since the beginning, they're often two speed, non reversible and use a
mechanical transmission to drive the oscillating agitator and spin
cycle. The last few years European-style front loaders with series wound
universal or polyphase VFD driven induction motors are becoming much
more popular but the old fashioned induction motor powered top loader is
still in probably 95% of homes.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:2mVHf.55406$_D1.3670@trnddc03...
Mr Fixit wrote:
"PatD" wrote in message
oups.com...

First, I did search the group and did not find the specific info I
need. I was given an older Maytag 1/3 hp 1725 rpm washing machine
motor and need help with the wiring to retask it for other use.
The wiring block on the end of the motor is set up with six connectors,
4 ganged with 1 internal and 1 external wire, 2 with single wires. It
looks as follows, (E) indicates external wire connected to house
current (115v) / maybe a capacitor? the other color is internal
wiring:

1 Blue / Red (E) 2 Green (E)

3 Black 4 Yellow / White (E)

5 Red / Yellow (E) 6 Orange / Black (E)

2 is connected to 3 via the centrifugal switch, I disassembled it to
verify. Obviously the start winding. This shows a resistance of .4,
probably need to clean my meters connections. Other values follow.
1 - 4 2 ohms
1 - 6 2 ohms
2 - 3 .4 ohm
3 - 5 3.6 ohms
4 - 6 .4 ohm
Any assistance in wiring / testing this would be appreciated. TIA


I thought all washing machine motors were DC as its easier to reverse and
speed control


Standard north american washing machines have used AC induction motors
since the beginning, they're often two speed, non reversible and use a
mechanical transmission to drive the oscillating agitator and spin cycle.
The last few years European-style front loaders with series wound
universal or polyphase VFD driven induction motors are becoming much more
popular but the old fashioned induction motor powered top loader is still
in probably 95% of homes.

I live and learn I never have lived in America just assumed they were
similar the the UK ones

Standard north american washing machines have used AC induction motors
since the beginning, they're often two speed, non reversible and use a
mechanical transmission to drive the oscillating agitator and spin cycle.
The last few years European-style front loaders with series wound
universal or polyphase VFD driven induction motors are becoming much more
popular but the old fashioned induction motor powered top loader is still
in probably 95% of homes.

I live and learn I never have lived in America just assumed they were
similar the the UK ones




It's surprising just how different they are, just recently acquired a
Creda front load washer which as far as I know is a very typical UK unit
but it was completely new to me and took some exploring to understand
how it worked well enough to fix it. I also picked up and fixed a Maytag
Neptune which is a high end American made front loader which performs
very well compared to the top loaders I've always had. I like the design
of the Creda a bit better but it has a much smaller capacity, probably
about half. The Neptune is one of those which uses a 3 phase induction
motor with an electronic variable frequency drive, pretty cool stuff.

James,

I bought a Neptune washer model MAH5500BWW in 2001. It has been working
until this Monday. The motor does not spin at all. BTW, I totally
missed out on the class action lawsuit since I hadn't had any problems
with the washer. An of course, I don't have the warranty anymore.

So I opened the main control board cover and found a wiring diagram and
some diagnostic test instructions. I ran the test and traced it down to
the motor control board (located at the lower right bottom from the
front panel), and a 10Amp fuse was blown. The instructions states that
"If the motor does not run: Check the 10 amp fuse located on the
control board, either visually or with an ohm meter. If bad, replace
motor control/wire harness assembly completely." I checked the maytag
website and the part costs $174.99 + tax + shipping. After reading all
the problems with the neptune washer on the net, I am not sure if I
want to reinvest about $200 on this thing, which may fail with other
problems sooner or later.

With my understanding in electricals, a fuse is supposed to the protect
the circuitry. So why in the world do you need to replace the entire
assembly if just the fuse is blown. I went to the radio shack and
bought a 10 amp fuse, soldered it in, ran the test again, same failure.

With your experience in fixing a neptune, can you shed some light or
give me any suggestions. I'd be much appreciated.

Best Regards,
PB