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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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G'day..
I Need to know how to test this 4 legged single piece component what a belive is a (Rectifier diode) gotten out of a computer power supply, which now i suspect of being bad. No is KBL406G, and it has a + and - marked on the first and last leg 4 all together. The diode looks simmilar to the following.. http://www.radioshack.com/images/Pro...6/276-1146.jpg Does anyone have a good diagram with discription on testing these component. Thanks. |
#2
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![]() G'day.. I Need to know how to test this 4 legged single piece component what a belive is a (Rectifier diode) gotten out of a computer power supply, which now i suspect of being bad. No is KBL406G, and it has a + and - marked on the first and last leg 4 all together. The diode looks simmilar to the following.. http://www.radioshack.com/images/Pro...6/276-1146.jpg Does anyone have a good diagram with discription on testing these component. Thanks. What was the problem with the PSU? Did the mains fuse blow violently at switch-on? Check each leg of the bridge to the other 3 legs with an ohm-meter and see if any of the diodes are short-circuit. -- Graham. %Profound_observation% |
#3
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Yes that is exactly what has happened the fuse blew first. I change
the fuse with another one of the same rating turned on the unit and the fuse blew again. For the Second time with two fuses blown i changed it for the last time and decided to turn the unit power on again only this time the fuse remained intact, to my suprise. In testing the power unit Further i found that a near by 1w 1.6 ohm resistor blew silently, this is located not far from the fuse itself. Each time i replace this resistor with the same one it just gets knocked out each time before the fuse does. I hope that explains a bit of what went wrong. |
#4
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DMM, From the AC inputs, the two that may not have any marking. Black lead
to + terminal. DMM in diode check mode. Should show conductance front all the other leads to the Black Test lead attached to the + Terminal. Inverse, connect the Red Test lead to the - Terminal, again they should show conductance from all the leads to the Red Test lead connected to the - terminal. Reversing the Test Leads, I.E. Red to + or Black to - should show infinite resistance, no conductance. Just 4 diodes and you are checking the front to back resistance/conductance. wrote in message oups.com... G'day.. I Need to know how to test this 4 legged single piece component what a belive is a (Rectifier diode) gotten out of a computer power supply, which now i suspect of being bad. No is KBL406G, and it has a + and - marked on the first and last leg 4 all together. The diode looks simmilar to the following.. http://www.radioshack.com/images/Pro...6/276-1146.jpg Does anyone have a good diagram with discription on testing these component. Thanks. |
#5
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![]() wrote in message oups.com... G'day.. I Need to know how to test this 4 legged single piece component what a belive is a (Rectifier diode) gotten out of a computer power supply, which now i suspect of being bad. No is KBL406G, and it has a + and - marked on the first and last leg 4 all together. The diode looks simmilar to the following.. http://www.radioshack.com/images/Pro...6/276-1146.jpg Does anyone have a good diagram with discription on testing these component. Thanks. I use the diode check function on my multimeter, a bridge rectifier is just four diodes connected around. |
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