Well there allot of replies about the sink to buy. Now hear is something to
check your waste elevation, some of the newer sinks are deeper about 10 1/2"
compared to 6 1/2". Most cases it works out , so if your going with a deeper
sink lower the trap adaptor accordingly. As for running the water supplies
as long as you get A to A and B to B everything should work.


wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm completly redoing my kitchen, including moving the sink. I have
the drain issues figured out so I am looking at features. My plan so
far:

Sink will probably be stainless single bowl 25X22 - might be able to
fit in a double, but will depend on cabinet layout. Will have a new
disposal. Probably a pull out faucet to eliminate the extra sprayer.

I want an undersink water filter - I have a mix of iron and copper pipe
and get bad taste and yellow water at times. I want to mount it in the
basement directly below the sink - will make filter changes much
easier, and if it does leak, onto a tile/concrete floor 4' from a floor
drain. My last one opened itself while doing some other plumbing -
apparently the pressure changes from turning off the main loosened the
cover.

Also thinking I will add an instant hot water tap for tea, coffee, etc.
What is the advantage of the $300+ units vs. the $100 units?

On the cold side, I figure I will run copper to the filter location in
the basement, install the filter, then run copper up under the sink.
Inside the cabinet I will tee off a second line for the water heater.
Both lines with shutoffs. Will also run the refrigerator line after
the filter.

Hot water line straight to cabinet, then tee off for the dishwasher -
again with individual shutoffs.

Am I missing anything to make life easier in the long run?