John Husvar wrote:
In article .com,
"Bugs" wrote:


Rust resistance and edgeholding ability are contradictory terms.
Stainless steels will not keep a sharp edge. High carbon steel can be
hardened very hard and hold a razor edge, but is very susceptible to
rust. My personal favorite all-round tool steel is car or truck leaf
springs. They are dirt cheap at salvage yards and you can make almost
any tool with it.
Bugs


440C and ATS-34 both have excellent edge-holding qualities when properly
heat treated. Their stainless properties aren't as good as the
low-carbon stainless steels, however, even when passivated.

Some of the guys on bladeforums or rec.knives might have more (and
better) information.

Myself, I keep a Victorinox Tinker in my pocket for important uses and a
3-dollar cheapie with it for general abuse.

On the other hand, I have a dagger I made from OCS, (Old Chevy Spring)
5160, which hasn't rusted in 10 or more years while sheathed in a pocket
in a leather pouch. It's also still hair-popping sharp.

In the Even-a-blind-hog Dept: There's my PPOS (Pakistani POS knife-like
object) a merchant gave me for helping her out. She sold those for $6.00
US. It's still both bright and sharp after being thoroughly abused,
cutting everything from tent stakes to beef steaks. Sue's $6 Boot Knife
is legendary in the SCA.

Go figure steel.

I carry a real cheap pocket knife just in case I lose it . Good ones I
lose fast but cheap junk seems to hang around forever . I gave my sons
all Victorianox knives last Christmas as a stocking suffers . My
preference for a knife is a Boker but the pocket knives go for around
175 here . Too much if it gets lost . Anyway time for me to learn how to
heat treat steel
Ken Cutt