On 8 Oct 2005 22:30:37 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
"brianlanning" quickly quoth:

I received my $299 tormek the other day from the amazon sale, the
planer knife jig, which I got for 40% off, will be here in a few days
(there's my dual drive-by). I just got around to playing with it
tonight. I haven't seen the video since I don't currently own a
working vcr, but I did read the book cover to cover. I sharpened two
chisels and noticed a couple things. I also have some questions.

Do you do your chisels in a batch, doing all the coarse grinding, then
grade for 1000 grit, then do all the fine grinding? or do you regrade
between each chisel going back ad forth between 220 and 1000?

insert raspberry and reference to ScarySharp(tm) method here


The book says to flatten the backs of the chisels on the side of the
wheel. I'm thinking that I should be able to get literally a mirror
finish on the back and the bevel, but it just isn't happening. It's
really sharp, but I can still see lines on the back for example from
the original machining. Should I go back and do it again to get the
complete mirror finish?

Yes, but only for 1/4" (some folks say an inch) or so, near the edge.
Repeat later as you sharpen that area away. The shinier the back, the
better the final edge.


I was reading someone else's post on woodnet, i think, about how the
manual says nothing about breaking in the leather wheel. There's
certainly nothing in the book about it. Should I be doing this, and if
so, how?

Dunno 'bout belts, but to charge my leather strop, I just rubbed a bit
of LVT green stick on it. (Chromium dioxide)


I have exactly one hand plane, a stanley jack plane I think. I plan on
buying a lot more once I have a few more machines. I noticed that the
iron has a curve, to stop the corners from digging in I guess. How
would you grind this curve on the tormek? The manual suggests a
technique that doesn't seem very doable to me. I think it would just
square off the iron anyway. Do you have a technique for this?

Now there's some irony for ya. You buy a Normite tool to do sharpening
for Neander tools. Bwahahahaha!


I'd say I'm probably 90% of the way there. The chisels were in bad
shape with nicks in the edges. Now, they're completely straight,
square, and sharp. They're also a lot shinier than when they started.
I was able to shave thin pieces of end-grain off of some southern
yellow pine I had handly. So I'm very happy with it.

For $300, I'd sure hope so.

P.S: That's a darn good deal on one of those pricy things.

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