Not really. The span table that the code official uses will make
the difference. The joists are not 14" apart. They are on 16"
centers - the distance from face to face is 14 1/2".

I don't think your floor is going to cave in, but it has been
rendered sub code. Here is a span table:
http://www.southernpine.com/spantables.shtml
they also have a span calculator:
http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/...izontal%2BSpan

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"BN" wrote in message
...
George E. Cawthon wrote:

The notch has reduced the effective depth of the joist by the
depth of
the notch. So assume the notch is 1 inch deep the effective
depth of
the joist is 9" - 1" = 8"

If that is a 15 foot clear span (no support except at the ends)
it is
either unacceptable or close to unacceptable depending on the
joist
spacing. Based on my tables you should have 2 x 10's and they
should be
Douglas fir or larch on 16" centers as a minimum. The plumber
should
have put the pipe through holes near the center of the joist.
That
would not reduce the strength of the joist whereas a notch on
the top
or the bottom does reduce the strength



The kitchen is 15' x 10'. The joist span is 15'. There are 6
joists
that are 14" apart. The 1st and last joists are 6" from the
joist-parallel wall. Although there is a double joist 2 feet
from the
wall and one more 5 inches from the double joist. So its a
total of 6
joists spaced 14" apart but starting 6" from either wall plus
the 3
joists I mentioned for a total of 9!

Luckily the double joist is under the cabinet and range side of
the
kitchen. We may put granite or quartz countertop.


Does that change anything?