"spoon2001" wrote
Hi folks.

I am getting bids for reroofing (hail damage), and I am having trouble
getting these guys to include flashing work in their bids. I don't think
they want to deal with it.

If you have a minute, could you look at this web page I made, and give me
your thoughts? There are some pictures of my roof flashing etc.

http://procyonlotor1.tripod.com/flashing.html

Thanks!!!

First, I would've loved this type of roof, when I used to do detailing. I
got "stuck" doing detail work for 14 years, and I loved every challenging
moment.

I agree with John Willis on some points like, the shingles aren't run over
the jack flashing enough, and you want a channel along when covering meets
step flashing, so the water flows, and debris doesn't collect. Also, about
putting sealant under the material at step flashing.

But, that cap/counter flashing would be ripped off there, with new counter&
step installed (I couldn't imagine leaving that horrendous material on
there). The counter shouldn't be all the way down to roof covering, instead
you should have at least 1/2" to 3/4" above the step flashing. The counter
should overlap each previous piece by 2". The pieces should be uniform in
size, but would be a challenge, since the stone doesn't look uniform. The
bottom of the counter flashing should always line up with the proceeding
piece, so you have a nice straight edge going up the roof-line. A crease
should be put in each piece of counter, to stiffen. Typical pieces of
pre-bent step flashing are 5"x7" for a standard shingle, usually bent so 3"
up juncture, and 2" onto roof covering, the 7" is the area of a standard
shingle that is covered, which is where the step flashing is installed. I
always preferred to bend my own step with 3-1/2" up wall, 2-1/2" under
material). On metric roof covering, bending your own is essential, otherwise
you end up doubling up step flashing, because the "hidden" part of the
covering is larger than 7". A standard rule of thumb in roofing, is all
overlaps always overlap at least 2", if not more. New cuts can be put in the
mortar joints, which the flashing should slip into.

The pitch on the soldered roof can easily be found, if same type of roof
covering can be used, it should be used.

The dead zone behind the chimney, would be a nightmare if you get freezing
weather. This spot is asking for trouble if ice dams occur. A couple of
2"x material, a compound cut or two, and a small piece of plywood, this spot
can be eliminated, with the water running free away from the dead zone.

One can only guess of why the drip edge is like it is. You say "lathe or
slats showing", one can only assume since this had a cedar roof on it b/4,
the entire deck was re-decked with plywood or OSB. Once the roof was torn
off, it would be safe to say, one could figure out the best approach so this
area isn't exposed. Could trim back the over hanging sheathing, or wider
fascia board, or ?

Good luck on finding someone to do it right.