On Sun, 02 Oct 2005 06:59:52 GMT, "spoon2001"
scribbled this interesting note:

Hi folks.

I am getting bids for reroofing (hail damage), and I am having trouble
getting these guys to include flashing work in their bids. I don't think
they want to deal with it.

If you have a minute, could you look at this web page I made, and give me
your thoughts? There are some pictures of my roof flashing etc.

http://procyonlotor1.tripod.com/flashing.html

Thanks!!!


You've done a very good job of picturing and describing your job.

I'll take them in the order in which you posted your pictures:
1. This seems to have been done well. The old roof cement on the
flashings can be chipped off and it works best when it is cold as the
stuff is quite brittle at low temperatures. The gap between the old
caulk and mortar can be filled in with a urethane caulk such as NP-1,
which will last a very long time. Every course of shingles must be
installed with a step flashing that goes under the shingle and behind
the flashings installed into the mortar.
2. See item number one.
3. See item number one.
4. Either the trim boards must be adjusted or larger metal drip edge
installed.
5. The only problem I see here is, counting from the left, the second
plumbing vent flashing isn't installed correctly. It is over two
shingles and under one. Less than half the flashing is covered by the
shingle above it. Unless it is well sealed underneath, water can
travel, under just the right circumstances, to the hole cut through
the decking and cause a leak.
6. I'll address the rust issue later...
7. See item number 6.
8. See item number 6.
9. See item number 6.
10. The reason the lower pitched section is roofed with soldered metal
is it the pitch is too shallow for wood shingles or three tab
composition shingles. The soldered metal roof can be retained if the
seams are in good condition and if it is properly maintained (See item
number 6.)
11. You are most likely correct in your assessment. Often times
installers are lazy. Caulking an area like this is faster than doing
it correctly...and it only lasts about five years or less before you
end up with a leak.
12. See item number one.
13. In the past, the step flashings used were of the size you have
pictured. Now they are typically 4X4X8, at least that is the most
common size I've seen. As to the gap between the end of the shingle
and the step flashing, I prefer to have a small space in this area
because it allows water to drain well.
14. See item number 6.
15. If properly done, a cricket is not needed in this location. Using
one piece of metal and no tin snips, it is possible to fashion a
flashing with no seams or cuts in it, but it takes some patience and
experience to make it.
16. The torn ridge shingle looks like tree damage, although it could
be from wind or animals (such as a raccoon.) Some decking may need to
be replaced, but that isn't very difficult.
17. No problems there.

Overall your roof isn't that difficult. Rust on galvanized metal is to
be expected and is normal. None of the rusting you have pictured is
atypical. With proper maintenance this can be controlled. If you
desire, you can treat the rust with a rust neutralizer and then paint
with any good grade of exterior enamel, although I'd suggest you stay
away from latex for this application. Maintaining the paint on the
soldered metal roof is particularly important so as to keep the seams
in good condition.

With all the flashings at the chimneys and walls you have lots of
places where an improperly done job can cause you leaks. I would
recommend that a bead of roof cement be placed between (under) the
shingle and step flashing on each course of these areas for extra
insurance (and that is SOP on all of our jobs.) The bead of roof
cement is under the shingle and out of sight, but it forms a water
tight seal to the metal of the step flashing. I even recommend every
roof vent and jack be done this way. It is easy to do when installing
the roof and the cost of a few tubes of roof cement is minimal. Of
particular importance are the corners on any and all chimneys. These
should be done with either a specially fashioned piece of flashing or
a good urethane sealer such as the previously mentioned NP-1.

With a good paint job, I don't see anything suspect with the roof
vents and jacks. Sure, they can be replaced, but unless they are in
particularly poor condition there is no real need. There is no need at
all to replace the lead plumbing vents as they will outlast the next
roof you have installed. Especially don't let anyone replace them with
the kind that has a rubber, or neoprene, seal. Those seals only last
about five years before they crack and cause a leak. If you prefer,
you may have some of the roof vents replaced with aluminum vents that
will not rust. The middle vent in picture number six is easily
replaced with this kind of flashing. The furnace and water heater,
double walled pipes require roof jacks that, so far, I've only seen
out of galvanized, unless you want to do what I suggest in the next
paragraph and pay tons more to have copper jacks made. The only
problem then is you have to make sure the copper does not come into
contact with a different kind of metal as this will cause corrosion
and premature failure of the parts in contact with each other.

Unless you want to pay quite a bit more, the existing galvanized
flashings that are mortared in can be reused. If you have deep
pockets, you can have copper flashings made and installed, with copper
fasteners, that won't rust and will last the life of the home.
Otherwise I'd suggest simply painting them ever five or six years to
keep the rust to a minimum. Besides, it gives you a chance to inspect
the roof for any unsuspected damage or problems that may not have
shown up inside the house...

Hope this helps.

--
John Willis

(Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)