biffula wrote:
RicodJour wrote:
If you mean regular 3-tab or architectural shingles, a 1/12 pitch isn't
sufficient. You really need double coverage roll roofing (aka selvage)
on such a shallow roof, or better yet, an EPDM membrane.
If you covered the whole roof with something like Ice & Water Shield,
then covered it with the shingles, that would be far better, though I
believe your roof pitch would still be below the recommended minimum
slope.
The Ice & Water Shield is usually wrapped up the roof and onto the wall
sheathing, the roof is shingled and the metal flashing is on top of
everything. It is important to have the flashing conform to the slope
of the roof and be rigid enough to keep it from warping. You will not
be able to buy such flashing - it has to be bent up on a brake for each
job. The leading exposed edge is usually doubled back on itself -
~1/2" and bent under the body. This hem is far more rigid and presents
a nice straight edge.
In general, you don't nail into the flashing as each nail is a
potential leak, and if you're not careful with your choice of nails,
galvanic reaction from the contact of disimilar metals will eat away
the nail and flashing. The flashing should only project a couple or
three inches at the most. It's really just to cover that top edge of
the last row of shingles and hide the nails...in a normal roof. As
your roof is so shallow you will have to spend some extra time and
attention to make sure that is waterproof.
It might not be the advice you'd like to hear, but you should pull that
flashing and rework it. Unfortunately, even if you get that top
flashing and edge tight as a drum, the rest of your roof is going to
present problems. Regular shingles on felt roofing paper on a 1/12
pitch will leak.
Why did you ignore the instructions on the shingle wrappers?
R
I didnt ignore the instructions. First, let me say I'm in Texas, so
snow is not an issue, just rain. A one foot drop over twelve feet is
plenty according to instructions. When you say I need to rework the
flashing, what do you mean? I have not done anything I shouldnt yet.
I just didnt like the lay of the flashing and wondered if I should
leave it, hammer it down flush on the shingles, or if I could lay a
layer of shingles over it - which I thought would not work as I would
pierce the flashing. So tell me what you mean by "rework it" based on
what I've just said.
Sorry. Poor choice of words. Reworking flashing is hard to do and it
usually ends up looking like hell. Here's one way to do the flashing:
http://tinyurl.com/c9ule That shows a bend at the leading edge. I
like to do a hem, but they both work and keep that front edge straight
and tight to the roof.
R