You are exactly right. Before all of this flashing tape came out, we would
cut 30# felt into 12" strips and tack around the window. Our procedure was
felt paper on the sheathing, moist stop on the sill, bead of caulk on the
back of the nailing fin, window installed, nail through every hole in nail
fin with 2" roofing nails, strip of 30# felt tacked across the bottom, strip
tacked up each side (overlapping bottom piece), strip tacked across top
(with sheathing felt rolled back down over the top piece. Now, we use the
flashing tape and tyvek in lieu of the felt paper. I actually prefer the
felt, but the flashing tape won't stick to it worth a damn.
An unfortunate common misconception is that the nailing fin is flashing.
What robson described, though practiced daily by most framers, is grossly
incorrect.

Just my .02

S.



"I R Baboon" wrote in message
...
negative batman. tyvek, caulk the window flange, install the window, seal
entire nailing flange with window tape (flexseal flexwrap whatever its
called) then siding then caulking. the only part of the tyvek that
overlaps
the flange would be the top.

wrote in message
oups.com...

wrote:
I have a window that was installed in a stucco wall years ago that
leaked. When the stucco was torn away around the window today, the
contractor said it leaked because the tar paper was installed wrong. It
went in front of the metal fin rather than behind it, according to him.
(It also was installed poorly with numerous tears and not much coverage
of the metal fin) Is he corrrect? Should the tar paper go behind the
metal? Seems like the metal would be left to rust that way.

tarpaper - or by todays standards tywrap, first - then the window,
siding then caulking