Yes, Shallow.

I would dispute this. I use a shallow cut for face jointing,
because it's hard to maintain a consistant speed & pressure with
the resistance of the whole width of the board. But for edge
jointing I'll start with a much more aggressive cut until the
edge is close to straight, because it makes it easier to control
the board and avoid tapering it if I make fewer passes.

Why would tapering be a problem? I joint the face, joint the edge then rip
to width.

I will concede that taking a bigger bite will get you to flat faster in some
cases, but, for me it's often quicker to take a couple extra passes than to
fiddle with the setup.


Always crosscut to rough length before jointing.

Bad advice, or at least wasteful. You want enough length beyond
finished length to allow for planer snipe, which means wasting
8 or 10 inches on every piece (*). Where the stock allows, I try
to plan for more than one finished piece from a board, and I
joint and plane it before cutting to length (for significantly
non-flat boards I cut first, simply because for those you'd
end up jointing/planing too much of the board thickness away
if you didn't)

(* note that you can sometimes save a little stock if you can
plan your tenons to fall on the sniped end of a board)

Well I could not disagree more. Planning to cut that much stock off every
board is wasteful. Tune you planer to avoid snipe. face-jointing a
full-length board is wasteful as it requires more stock removal to remove
the bow from a board. 1/4" bow over eight feet will require removal of 1/4"
of stock. 2 four-footers from that same board will require about 1/16" of
stock removal.

If you like to retain as much stock thickness as possible (I often do),
crosscut first.

-Steve