Seems to me, the bottom of the inside washer edge and the top inside washer edge on the
other side are the two pipe touch points.

Touch points = pipe diameter
Then the triangle generated by the thickness of the washer should determine the angle.
I suspect the pipe is cut at this angle or more so this angle is attained.

Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Grant Erwin wrote:
I've seen blacksmiths make forge stock stands using a trick: the stand's
vertical member is a tube (e.g. 1/2" pipe) and the vertically adjusting
member is a rod (e.g. 1/2" round bar) which slides in the pipe. The top
of the pipe is cut at an angle and there is a washer slipped over the
pipe. As you lift the pipe, the washer rattles down, but when you let go
of the pipe the washer is forced to an angle and binds on the pipe. When
you get it where you want it, then (and only then) does the user tighten
the threaded T-handle clamp on the side.

My question is, does anyone know how to design this angled washer setup?
How angled should it be? How much bigger than the vertical rod should
the hole in the washer be?

Grant Erwin -- trying to not reinvent the wheel

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