The traditional way to do this would be to double the rafter on
each side of the one to be cut, install a header between these
rafters to carry the cut rafter. You should support the load
until all the connections are made, though the roof will probably
carry it long enough to accomplish.

If the rafters are 2x4, it must be a fairly old structure. What
worries me is that they may be trusses. DO NOT CUT A TRUSS. Get
further input and advice.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Bill" wrote in message
...
I am installing a new wood stove (EPA Cert.), have mechanical
permit, etc.

And I have built my hearth pad (proper R-Value to code, etc.)
and have
located my wood stove on the hearth pad to manufacturer's specs.
(Proper
distance from walls, etc.) This is the *only* place the wood
stove can go.
The chimney is stainless steel 6" inside diameter and 8" outside
diameter.
I'm Using Selkirk - Metalbestos chimney parts.

So guess what? The metal chimney going straight up will go right
smack dab
through a rafter (45 deg. roof slope - one of many 2 x 4's at 45
deg. angle
supporting roof.)

So I will need to cut the rafter....

Questions....

Can I cut the rafter, then add 2x 4's which transfer the support
for that
rafter to neighboring rafters?

I read that there needs to be a 2 inch separation between wood
and the
metal chimney. If I do this where the chimney pops up through
the roof,
there will be a 2" air gap going from the attic to the vented
roof jack
(flashing). I am concerned about insects getting into the vent,
then making
a home in the attic. Can I place screen or something somewhere
in this area
(to keep insects out)?