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Eric R Snow
 
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Default More about that .22 cylinder and gunsmithing

After reading responses about the two .22 revolvers only 1 is a good
candidate for what I want to do. So now comes the machining part.
First, measuring the cylinder shows that the ends are not parallel.
the ends may not be square to the central hole either. This hole is
tapered. On the back end the hole measures .191 and at the front .188.
the rod that goes through it measures .185 at the back and .186 at the
front. The hole in the frame at the front measures .191. At the tip of
the rod the diameter is reduced to .137. The hole in the pistol is
..142. It all seems pretty sloppy. I haven't checked the accuracy of
the hole spacing or the accuracy of the indexing teeth. It seems that
as long as the teeth all have the same relationship to their
respective holes (chambers?) then the chambers should all line up with
the barrel if one does. My proposed plan of action is to first remove
the taper from the central hole and then make sure the cylinder faces
are parallel and square to the central hole. Then, make the new rod
that goes through the cylinder. The rod will be .190 diameter with the
smaller diameter at the front being .141. I will make a dummy cylinder
out of brass and charge the ends with fine abrasive to lap the faces
in the frame where the cylinder contacts square to the cylinder. Next,
the faces on the teeth where they cantact the frame will be checked
for squareness and made square if need be. After this is done the
headspace needs to be checked. If too small I will face enough off the
back end of the cylinder to set the headspace correctly. What is the
proper headspace? Is there a way to determine this for any revolver?
After all that then the front of the cylinder where the play is set
will need to be changed. This little spud is .246 dia and protrudes
..108. I am going to counterbore the cylinder .250 dia. by .250 deep
and press in a short tube that's .180 I.D. by ..400 long before the
cylinder I.D. has the taper removed. Then when the frame is ready I'll
measure the inside dimension of the frame and make the cylinder .001
shorter. Finally, after all that's done, the barrel will be removed
and modified to set the proper clearance between the cylinder and the
barrel.
ERS