"Mike Pio" wrote in message

This is great information -- thank you. With that 3/4 dado in your FF's,
how many pocket screws do you normally fit into your bottom rail?

One on each side.

Strength is NOT an issue here because the assembled FF is being glued to the
floor and end panels, which are captured within the intersecting dadoes in
the stiles and rails and the dadoes in the end panels ... that is where your
strength/integrity of the assembled unit is derived, as well as your
'squareness".

I guaranatee you that elephants can dance on a cabinet made in this manner,
and that they will hang on a wall, fully loaded, or carry the heaviest
granite countertops, with no racking, ever.

From your
drawings, I presume the top rail and drawer cross members are not dadoed
and
you can fit 2 screws each into those?

The top rail on wall cabinets _does_ have a dado (usually 1/8" from the
bottom of the rail).

The top rail on base cabinets usually does not. Rarely do you have a top
'floor' on base cabinets, because you will be adding a substrate as a base
for the countertops. (both top and bottoms are designated as "floors" on
your materials cutlist since they are the same dimensions)

Muntins and intermediate/drawer rails, usually not.

As a recap:

Cut/route the dadoes first in your rails and stiles. Assemble the FF with
pockethole joinery. After the FF is assembled, take a router and connect the
dadoes on the rails with those on the stiles ... very easy to do freehand
with a 3/8" straight bit set at the same depth as the dado (1/4").

Keep in mind that all the dimensions are carefully worked out for 3/4"
sheetgoods for endpanels and floors. You need to change your placement if
you are using 5/8", or other thickness, sheetgoods.

For 3/4" sheetgoods, this gives you:

An even, 1/8" lip between the FF and the floors, which is a nice touch, IMO,
(debatable by some) and keeps from having any of those small gaps, between
the FF and the edge of the plywood and the floor, that collects dirt/dust
over the years.

A 1/4" "scribe strip" on the outside of each cabinet if needed, and which
can be used to great effect to accept 1/4" trim on the visible end panels at
the end of a cabinet run.

A 1/2" space on the inside of the cabinet, between the end panel wall and
edge of the FF, where a "spacer" cut from readily available 1/2" plywood
allows you to mount your drawer slides easily, without shimming.

And, depending upon the width of the rails, ample room at the top and bottom
of each cabinet to attach them to the wall without having screws visible
inside the cabinet. (This is also a good place to glue/brad nail 1/4 round
"cleats" as additional bracing, something I always add as just a little
extra "peace of mind" for the years to come)

The 3/4" between the 1/4" back panel and the back edge of the end panel will
accept the 3/4" tack strips, and they will be flush with the back and make
contact with the wall for better hanging/holding power.

HTH ...

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Last update: 8/29/05