"Stephen M" wrote in
:

I would like to build a tressle table for my dining room from cherry.
My recent projects have led me to the conclusion that color-matching
cherry is really tough to do well. What looks like a good match "dry"
can be very different with the wet look of a just a clear finish. If
I have to do a glue-up taking wood from the same board yeilds the best
result.

I would hate to go to the trouble and expense of a large table and
look at the top and feel like I wish I could have another stab at
board selection.

I was considering using my bandsaw to resaw the best board I could
find into something like 13/16" slices. By doing joint, resaw joint
resaw... I would always have one smooth face to glue to a substrate,
which I could later pass through the planer to clean up the surface.

I tried this on a small scale this weekend and it worked OK, but
using yellow glue required about 12 f-clamps on a 2.5 x 15" board.
That glue/clamping strategy is not viable for a 7' x 8" board. I
doubt that a traditional veneering approach would work for a
relatively thick veneer.

Has anyone ever tried contact cement for wood-wood bond using a
essentially the same process as gluing formica to MDF?

Thanks,

Steve




Try googling on shop-sawn veneer. And/or getting a look at Krenov's
books, which include writings on the subject.

David Marks does this regularly on his cable-only TV show. Anyone who
has taken the coursework at College of the Redwoods learns and uses this
method regularly. Certainly it is taught elsewhere as well.

But these veneers are cut closer to 3/32", edge jointed and glued, and
then glued to the substrate, (both sides) generally with a vacuum bag.

Usually for exactly the reasons you describe.

Patriarch,
theorist, observer and book learner wrt veneer