The Bealle instruction is referring to a Raw Linssed Oil.

All drying oils need atmospheric oxygen for them to cure. The problem
is that the "raw" linseed oil cures only on the surface, and that forms
an effective seal so the oil under it doesn't cure. Buffing will expose
the uncured oil below the surface, and all you will get is a mess.

Boiled Linseed Oil has been modified with the addition of drying agents
the so it will cure all the way through.

There are always the problems of buffing too soon or putting too much
oil on the the wood.

Too soon can be solved by waiting a week before buffing.

The too much can be solved by not putting on so many coats that there
is a build up of oil on the surface. The solution here is to not do it,
2 or 3 at the most coats of Boiled Linseed Oil are sufficient. Or, you
can wait the several weeks to months for the oil to cure all the way
down into the wood.

If you want a surface film, you should be using an oil finish with a
varnish. Th varnish resins are harder than the oil, and can be built up
with many coats to give it depth and gloss. Again, don't go too fast,
and wait for it to get hard before buffing.

There can also be a problem with putting on the next coat of oil before
the previous one has dried. always wait overnight before recoating any
oil finish, and always abrade the previous surface with 0000-steel
wool. This prepares the surface for a better bond with the next coat,
and it is also an indicator of whether it is ready for the next coat.
If the dry finish comes up as a white powder, it is cured. If it
doesn't, it isn't