"Tony Williams" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Bob Eager wrote:

I have the top off the machine, also the small panel at bottom
front. This seems to be all the access there is. I know I have
to get the belt over the motor shaft and the two idler pulleys,
and I hear this is not easy.

Hah! Here we go............ It's the long way round,
but does allow you to do some additional preventative
maintenance on the way.

Lay the machine on it's front, access required all round.
Electric screwdriver if poss, small spanner set, hoover,
pliers, and a small quantity of grease.

Remove the flange from the exhaust pipe, two screws.
Remove the rear bearing cover, two screws.
Remove the two large screws going into the top drop.
Remove the heater cover, multiple screws.

Hoover out the accumulated fluff, taking great care not
to touch the heaters themselves (very delicate).

Examine the thermal switches (and wiring to them) for
signs of overload/burning..... about £22 a new pair.

Remove the bronze earthing strap from the rear bearing,
two screws. Then remove the split pin and washer.

Remove the three bolts securing the fan, casually taking
note that the fan has an anti-rotation dimple that must
be properly engaged in the hub on re-assembly.

Remove all the backplate securing screws.... dozens of the
bloody things.

Lift off the backplate assembly. There is enough length
in the cabling for it to be moved over to one side. Look
out for the little square graphite'y bush that may fall
out of the rear bearing pressing.

Hoover out the accumulated fluff. Note though that if
there is large quantities of fluff in the body of the
machine then it is certain that the seal around the drum
periphery is worn and should be replaced. Note that
earlier Hotpoints had a separate nylon drum support,
which resulted in almost no wear of the drum seal.
Later Hotpoints dropped the drum support, with the
support now provided by the drum seal itself, which
(of course) results in a high wear-rate. ((((

Check the drum seal by lifting out the drum and
checking that the seal is ok, with no sign of any
metal-metal rubbing around the front rim.

Everything is now open to replace the belt.... Around
the drum first and then threaded through the two idlers
and round the motor shaft. Note that later Hotpoints
do not have the two idlers.

Whilst you are there, *carefully* put a touch of grease
onto the steel shafts of the idlers. This will prevent
a possible later (very irritating) squeak.

Now put the backplate back on, taking care to put the
cablings back as they were. Get the bearing shaft back
in place first, then roughly line up the screw holes,
especially in the vertical plane, so that the belt is
tight. Whilst holding it in place, replace the screws
along the bottom to secure the backplate in the vertical
plane. Then go round and replace all backplate screws.

Put the fan back on. Remember that antirotation dimple.

Now back to the rear bearing. A touch of grease on it,
replace the washer and split pin. Replace that bronze
earthing strap. Use the fan to turn the drum and
check that the bent over bits of the split pin do not
foul the earthing strap as the drum rotates.

If all ok, drop the heater cover back on, followed by
the bearing cover.

Refit the rest of the odds and sods.

Machine upright, reach in and *slowly* turn the drum by
hand to settle the belt.

Job done.

--
Tony Williams.

I have heard it is a good idea to loop a spare belt round at the same time
and cable tie it out of the way so that the job is easier next time.