My saw is a Sears from the 1950's and the fence
will go on either side of the blade with an index
for each side. Also, extension which include the
fence rail can be bolted to either side so you put
them where you want.

Pop wrote:
I find it interesting that no one has mentioned that TS's, at
least every one I've seen, are ruled for the rip fence to be on
the right. There is no width setting on the other side in most
cases. Many saws also are limited on the width of cut you can
get on the left side. It's a right-handed world.

Just curious - why hasn't that been noted? Is that no longer the
contruction? Unless I'm doing precision work, I just hook the
rip fence on, set it to the size I need according to the ruler
laid on the bar, and lock it. It's accurate to within a 16th on
mine so it works fine in almost all situations.

Personally I think it's more important anyway to be sure your
head torso and limbs get minimum exposure to inline with the
blade, regardless of sides.

Pop


"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" wrote
in message
om...
: George E. Cawthon wrote:
: I appreciate you statement, but I just don't
: understand where a right handed person puts there
: hands/push sticks if you have the fence to the
: right of the blade. And yes, I left out "wood,"
: i.e., ". . .push the appropriate part of the wood
: . . ."
:
:
: So, my question is where specifically do you place
: your hands. For convenience, assume a 10" board
: 3 feet long you want an 8" wide by 3' long piece.
:
:
: I'm right handed and the way I'd deal with this is to set the
fence 2" to the
: right of the blade, stand on the left and push with my right
hand while guiding
: with my left hand. The smaller cut off is going to be between
the blade and the
: fence so if it launches, at least it's the smaller of the two
pieces and I'm
: over to the side out of the line of fire. This also gives me
the wider portion
: of the wood to push against.
:
:
:
: --
: Mortimer Schnerd, RN
:
: VE
:
: