I believe for ease of working and not having to pour the lead joints, but I
agree with your take on the 1 inch gap they suggest. Wouldn't one want the
fit as snug as possible to guard against a big seepage, then the gasket does
the rest to seal it?

"Marilyn & Bob" wrote in message
news:67mPe.4163$SW1.2734@trndny09...
Can someone explain to me why one would use PVC instead of cast iron as
the replacement piece? After all, one already has a cast iron chain
cutter to cut out the existing damaged pipe. And, while we're at it, why
is the pipe cut a whole inch shorter than the length removed?
--
Peace,
BobJ

"Speedy Jim" wrote in message
...
Eric and Megan Swope wrote:

Confused, almost probably. Certainly wouldn't be the first time and
won't be the last

In the HD link that worked on page 2, it looks like they are putting a
glove over the joints, which I assume this is the neoprene sleeve. I
thought this was a separate component from the no hub coupling. That's
why I asked if the sleeve is rolled up inside the coupling and if it can
then be unrolled. Probably the link more than anything has confused me.

Glove = Neoprene sleeve.
It comes with the stainless band seen in the pics.
The band + sleeve = No-Hub coupling.

The sleeve isn't "rolled up" , it is merely "coaxial"
with the stainless band.

The HD guys chose to "fold back" (like foreskin)
1/2 of the sleeve in order to allow the new pipe
to be inserted.

The alternate method (which I like) is to slide
the sleeve ALL the way onto the new PVC pipe.
Then, when the new and old pipes are aligned,
simply slide the sleeve half way off the PVC
and onto the old pipe.
Jim
snip