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Martin H. Eastburn
 
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Don Foreman wrote:

On 22 Aug 2005 15:12:36 -0700, "
wrote:


The problem is that with only solder holding it together it breaks with
any type of stress on the pin, if I move the speaker, the solder
breaks. I would also like to use a spade connector instead of the
banana clip connector. If I tried to use a spade connector now it would
pull the pin out.

Ultimately I think I want to splint the pieces together with a post or
headless bolt placed in a hole drilled concentrically down both pieces.

I'm willing to pay to have the post fabricated out of gold or whatever.
This is a very high end speaker.



Why would you want gold? You are aware that gold has higher
resistivity than copper, right?


Gold is wanted for several reasons on many items.
1. it is a noble metal - that is, not much dissolves it.
2. It flows on contact with more gold or a metal it likes (most).
3. It forms a gas tight fit - so the chlorine in the air doesn't etch copper...
4. It can be plated on so thinly.
5. It looks nice.

Martin


Matter of fact, I think Wilson uses stainless steel hardware.
http://www.stereophile.com//interviews/478/

That may be why you're not having good luck with ordinary solder.
It doesn't wet stainless well at all. You might have better luck
with a tin-silver solder of similar melting point but considerably
more strength and far better wetting of stainless.

I would suggest that you separate the matters of electrical
conductivity and mechanical strength. You are not going to get the
strength of the original part with a "splint", so if you broke the
original it's nearly a certainty that you'll eventually break the
repair unless it's mechanically reinforced.

Make the electrical connection with silver-tin solder, conductive
epoxy or whatever, provide mechanical strength by other means: a
flange with screws into the body or whatever.











--
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

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