On 22 Aug 2005 15:12:36 -0700, "
wrote:

The problem is that with only solder holding it together it breaks with
any type of stress on the pin, if I move the speaker, the solder
breaks. I would also like to use a spade connector instead of the
banana clip connector. If I tried to use a spade connector now it would
pull the pin out.

Ultimately I think I want to splint the pieces together with a post or
headless bolt placed in a hole drilled concentrically down both pieces.

I'm willing to pay to have the post fabricated out of gold or whatever.
This is a very high end speaker.

Why would you want gold? You are aware that gold has higher
resistivity than copper, right?

Matter of fact, I think Wilson uses stainless steel hardware.
http://www.stereophile.com//interviews/478/

That may be why you're not having good luck with ordinary solder.
It doesn't wet stainless well at all. You might have better luck
with a tin-silver solder of similar melting point but considerably
more strength and far better wetting of stainless.

I would suggest that you separate the matters of electrical
conductivity and mechanical strength. You are not going to get the
strength of the original part with a "splint", so if you broke the
original it's nearly a certainty that you'll eventually break the
repair unless it's mechanically reinforced.

Make the electrical connection with silver-tin solder, conductive
epoxy or whatever, provide mechanical strength by other means: a
flange with screws into the body or whatever.