Thread: Floor joists
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Dave Plowman (News)
 
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In article . com,
Callum wrote:
Can anyone help me with the following problem. I'm currently
renovating a 3 storey terraced house, and have moved onto the top floor
(see diagram below). The top floor is in the roof, but isn't an attic
conversion as there is an original dormer window to the front. The
problem I have is I want to create more space by knocking down a wall
(see * in the diagram below - it's only a lathe and plaster wall, non
load bearing) and taking the room into the eaves. This should be easy,
but where they used 6x2 joists (see 1) in the room, they used 3x2
joists (see 2) in the eaves. On top and across of the smaller joists
runs a 6x2 joist, which I guess is to stop them sagging with the weight
of the ceiling below. This joist is supported by the outer wall and
the last 6x2 joist. I guess this joist will have to come out
eventually as it's 3 inches higher than the floor in the room (3 inch
joist below + 6 inch joist = 9 inches vs 6 inch joist in the room)


How can I re-inforce these smaller joists so they can take the weight
of people moving around (although they are in the eaves, there is
enough head room for a bed, desk, etc). I'd also like to be able to
keep the whole floor at the same level.


This is more or less exactly what I did to my existing attic room - the
only difference being the dormer was at the back.

Ended up putting in a steel at one end, and new joists front to back
sitting over the existing.

Think your best plan is to get a structural engineer in now, rather than
later. The studding wall you describe as non load bearing almost certainly
is, as it forms a triangle between floor joists and rafters.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
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