"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 17 Aug 2005 10:49:43 -0400, "No" wrote:


Second - THE MAIN QUESTION. How would you handle the details of the
connection between the plywood facade's radius curve and the ends of the
beadboard? Would you lap the bead board ends under the plywood and have
the
end grain exposed to the front? Would you butt the ends of the beadboard
to
the plywood and have the plywood edge exposed below? I think I am leaning
toward the second. If I go that route would you do anything to finish the
plywood edge or just paint it as was done in the picture above?

Consider not using plywood? You're already making a nice custom
stoop, if the radius is gentle enough, you might get it cut out of a
1" x 12" plank of doug. fir or cedar. Then you can cut the triangle
for the peak out of whatever you like and join them together. In that
case, it'd look really nice if you butted the bead board against the
back side of the curved piece with a little bit of the facade (maybe
an inch or so) hanging below the level of the ceiling.

If you're set on plywood (and it may be the best choice) I'd do the
same thing as above, and secure a thin strip along the end grain with
some adhesive and a couple of small brads. It'd look a little funny
if the end grain of the bead board was hanging out.

In either case, it might not be a bad idea to use a circle cutting jig
and a router to cut a shallow curved dado for the bead board to slide
into, for alignment purposes during installation, as well as to accout
for any future wood movement.


My vote goes for Promethius' suggestion with one change: rather than route a
curved dado, just glue/screw a series of mounting blocks to the inside face
of the pannel. You could use a jig saw or band saw to cut a concave surface
to which the beadboard would be nailed.

-Steve