Owen Lowe wrote:
He commented something on the lines that higher speeds make a smoother
and more controlled cutting action - if I remember right.

For roughing down a spindle (turning it from a square section to a
cylinder) the higher speed makes it easier for the weight of your body
to overcome the percussive effect the corners of the wood have as they
slam into the cutting edge.

The limiting factor of course is the speed the lathe will turn the
workpiece without vibration. A sharp tool, properly presented, will
reduce the force on the tool.

Confidence too is important. You need to be confident the work piece is
securely mounted and isn't going to come flying off. Beginners can
sometimes benefit from adjusting the drive belt so it will slip if they
have a catch; or use a Stebcenter to drive the workpiece. Start with
light cuts; when you approach the wood with the roughing gouge let the
heel of the bevel touch the wood first, then carfully raise the handle
until the cutting edge starts cutting, then make your cut along the
length of wood.

CharlieB made a very astute observation:
"In The World of Norm, I can mechanically limit the degrees of freedom
of movement of both the tool and the stock. With turning, at least the
center/ spindle turning I’ve been playing with (for me, if it’s fun it’s
playing), it’s the very dynamic brain/ eye / hand coordination that
concerns me. Initiating a “cut” properly and completing it properly is
requiring far more concentration, coordination and, frankly, stress than
it probably should."

Yes, woodturning with unrestrained hand-held tools is very much a manual
skill. It starts with where you place your feet and ends with how you
manipulate and control the tool, getting feedback from touch, eyes and
ears. Just like an athlete has to train their body parts to work
together, so does a woodturner.


--
Derek Andrews, woodturner

http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com
http://chipshop.blogspot.com
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toolrest/