Hello,

I just finished building a porsche, so I have a good idea of the work
involved (although mine was smaller)...

2*4 material for the rafters and 2*6 for the structure is OK.
for the front, I would use particle board or osb or similar to get the vault
and then, in front plyboard that goes lower as in the picture (and but end
my roof boards on it (it would be supported in the other placed by the
particle boards)... caulk the bottom to avoid water sipping in...

I would build the brackets and cut the plywood/particle board in the shop,
and then go onsite and install the stuff... easier that way cause you can do
it easily by yourself...
I would say that you should be able to knowk it off in 5 work day
day 1: mesuring, planning, buy material prep the brackets
day 2: finish the brackets, prep the t&g prep particle board/plywood
day 3: remove siding, install ledger and brackets, framing
day 4: install roof and ceiling, start trimming
day 5: finish trims and calking/puttying

but I might be wrong...

cyrille


"No" wrote in message
...
Hello - I have a new project to build a small front porch/stoop roof. No
big deal except this one will have a barrel vault ceiling. Essentially it
will look similar to this one

http://www.peppel.com/portico/barrel_vault.jpg

The one in the picture has a bead board ceiling following the 2x4 rafters
and a curved plywood front. My customer wants a true barrel ceiling. I
have the plans for the design in my picture and everything is straight
forward but since the plans are for the ceiling following the rafters, not
the curve, I have a question or two.

First - The rafters - I figure I will use 2x material with plywood cut to
the appropriate radius to attach my, probably shop made, t&g boards to.
Construction adhesive and brads or finishing nails here. I'm not too keen
on nailing into the edge of ply. Any thoughts on this?

Second - THE MAIN QUESTION. How would you handle the details of the
connection between the plywood facade's radius curve and the ends of the
beadboard? Would you lap the bead board ends under the plywood and have
the end grain exposed to the front? Would you butt the ends of the
beadboard to the plywood and have the plywood edge exposed below? I think
I am leaning toward the second. If I go that route would you do anything
to finish the plywood edge or just paint it as was done in the picture
above?

Third - And a just curious question. How long would it take you to build
what is shown in the picture with the modifications I described above?
Support would be via brackets, not posts. Siding will need to be cut back,
j channel installed, roof applied and a light hung (Including new wire
from existing switch). Customer will paint, I will caulk, fill, sand and
back prime. Moldings are stock. Would you completely site build it or
would you build it in your shop and do final install on site? I'm thinking
of building the gable and brackets in the shop, install the brackets and
get someone to help me lift the whole thing onto the brackets then trim it
out, wire it and roof it. Barring that, I may build the trusses and
brackets ahead of time and then put it all together on site.

TIA